The wind is blowing strongly on the flank of Broad Law, a barren hill in the Scottish Borders. In front of us, the land stretches out to the coast, where Edinburgh lies on the horizon. On the right we see Leith Harbour, and on the left Arthur’s Seat rises above the city. Above us, grey clouds float, but above Edinburgh the sky is blue. On this windy Tuesday afternoon in September, there are more sheep here than people. For a week we explore the southeast of Scotland by bike from Landal Whitekirk Hill.
Our base is on the coast of East Lothian, the city of Edinburgh and the quiet hills of the Borders. Landal Whitekirk Hill The house is located near North Berwick, overlooking the coast. Emma traveled by train from London to Newcastle; Sander took the night boat from Rotterdam. We were treated to a beautiful view from the window of the house. Volvo XC40 at the disposal of Enterprise Rent-a-Car. We’ll meet in Newcastle and then continue on in the car.
On the coast of East Lothian
The sun shines on Bass Rock. The island in the shape of a white rock that shines in the North Sea thanks to the light. The wind blows here a little stronger along the Scottish east coast. The heather blows along with the wind. Further on we see rain clouds blowing by. They are just missing us. The elements always play a role.
Landal Whitekirk Hill Located on a hill above the coast of East Lothian, the lodges are of Scandinavian style. From the windows we can see the ruins of Tantallon Castle on the cliffs and therefore Bass Rock: it is home to about 150,000 seabirds.
On the first afternoon, we explore the surroundings with a short tour of about 30 kilometers. The road goes down to the sea and the midday sun, taking us via the coastline and views of Bass Rock to North Berwick, past old manor houses, along the Scottish Golf Coast with its many left-handed golf courses and a coastline where you can only dream of getting off the road. Further on, we turn left through the hilly countryside. Because that’s also Scotland; it seems flat, but secretly you’re constantly going up and down.
The autumn sunshine and pleasant temperatures provide a perfect introduction to the East Lothian region. We’ve already made a note of Alandas, the award-winning ice cream shop in the center of North Berwick: a stop for sunny days this week.
Tour de France Grand Départ
Why did we end up specifically in South East Scotland? The Tour de France starts next year in Edinburgh. They will ride via the beautiful Scottish Borders southwards towards Carlisle in stage 1. Then it will go from Keswick to Liverpool in stage 3, finishing in Cardiff with a start in Welshpool.
For us, the Grand Départ is more than just a reason to explore the wider region around Edinburgh. It’s a wonderful excuse to see why so many of us are so passionate about cycling in Great Britain.
The Scottish Borders: from Innerleithen to Broad Law
Scotland has many national parks. The Scottish Borders, south of Edinburgh, is perhaps one of the most beautiful regions. Rugged landscapes, where the road seems to split in two. To get there from Whitekirk Hill, we take the car. We set off at half past seven, hoping for the golden morning light, but it is cloudy and raindrops are hitting the windshield. After more than an hour of parking in Innerleithen, in the Two Valley. The weather is changeable, so we immediately put on extra layers: long sleeves, rain jacket, arm warmers.
Innerleithen is a real cycling village, full of bike shops and with a thriving mountain biking scene: in the surrounding forests are some of the best trails in Great Britain. We take the race bike and head up to Broad Law. The road cuts the village golf course in half and follows a dark, turf-colored stream valley into the forest. Behind every bend the landscape gets more rugged: round, weathered hills, purple heather, lonely stone houses.
It’s quiet there. We see a few cars and a handful of cyclists, mostly mountain bikers. A father and son are telling us they are riding the Coasts and Castles route, the cycling route along the coast from Newcastle to Edinburgh. The road is so beautiful that you hardly notice that you are climbing. The higher we go, the windier it gets and the more wind turbines we see. It’s clearly always windy here.
Melrose, Bowden Loch and the Eildon Hills
Afterwards we drive to Melrose, a market town with the ruins of a twelfth-century abbey. It is somewhat busier here, due to the visitors to the abbey. Two cyclists are a striking sight here at the moment of the year.
From the center, a short, steep path of about two kilometers climbs up through the forest, with an average of almost 7 percent. In the Tour de France, the points are awarded here for the mountain jersey. At the top, the landscape becomes wider again: to the left are the Eildon Hills, behind us you can see Melrose and the surrounding villages. Those who have an eye for the surroundings will see Bowden Loch, a pond against the hills, where we stop for a while to say hello to the ducks. For the pro peloton, this will not be a stop.
Furthermore by the Borders
Those who have more time can continue cycling south through tranquil, rolling countryside. Hawick is the capital of Scottish cashmere, with factory shops where you can buy a nice sweater. A little further south is Hermitage Castle, a gloomy fortress notorious for its ghost stories, and Newcastleton, like Innerleithen, is a well-known spot for mountain bikers. From there it is not far to the English border and Carlisle.
Along the Gulf Coast to Edinburgh
A day later we cycle to Edinburgh, always passing close to the coast. This stretch is called the Golf Coast because of the 21 golf courses that are located here. The sea is sparkling blue and wide sandy beaches stretch out to the edge of the city. From the park it’s about two hours by bike to Edinburgh; by car you’re there in three quarters of an hour.
In the city, we take our time. We drive along the promenade of Portobello, climb the cobbled streets of West Bow with its colorful shops, visit the whisky distillery in the port of Leith and cycle to the foot of Arthur’s Seat, the ancient volcano in the middle of the city. At the top of the Royal Mile lies Edinburgh Castle, the city’s landmark for over nine hundred years.
Back on Broad Law, with Edinburgh on the horizon, we realize how close everything here is: a historic capital, a coast full of beaches and castles, and a interior where you can cycle for hours without encountering anyone.
Landal Whitekirk Hill
Landal Whitekirk Hill It is a quiet and well-maintained park with luxury chalets, each with its own hot tub. It is located close to the coast and is equipped with all the amenities: there is a restaurant, a spa, a sauna and a swimming pool. Edinburgh is a three-quarters-hour drive or about two hours by bike. This makes it an ideal base for exploring this region: the coast of East Lothian is right on your doorstep, Edinburgh is a lovely day trip, and the Scottish Borders are easily accessible by car.
The routes
All routes from this story are available with GPX download, map and elevation profile in our route database:
- Warm-up round along the coast34 km and 140 altitude meters, starting at Landal Whitekirk Hill
- Whitekirk – Edinburgh along the Gulf Coast90 km and 255 altitude meters, back and forth along the coast
- Innerleithen and the Scottish Borders: 50 km and 560 altitude meters
- Tour de France 2027, stage 1: Edinburgh – Carlisle202 km and 1,730 altitude meters, linear route
Practical
- How do you get there? By night boat from Rotterdam to Hull or from IJmuiden to Newcastle, and then by car further north. By train it can be done via London, with a stop in Edinburgh. I don't have a car myself, so I'll take the train. Enterprise car rental We were provided with a car, with a tow hitch.
- Best period: May to September. Also bring rain gear and warm layers in the summer: the weather changes quickly and the hills are always windy.
- Cycling: Racers will find long, quiet roads in the Borders; mountain bikers can head to the Tweed Valley around Innerleithen and Peebles.
- Driving on the left: In Scotland you drive on the left, even on a bicycle.
Cafes and restaurants
In your accommodation at the park you have plenty of options for cooking yourself. There are supermarkets in North Berwick. If you still want to eat somewhere, here are a few tips for the area.
- The restaurant at the park is perfect. During our visit it was open for breakfast and lunch. https://www.whitekirkhill.co.uk/dine/
- In North Berwick there is The Lamb bar & bistro A great place for a casual dinner. We went there for pizza night. 2 for £20 was a good deal.
- In Edinburgh there is plenty to see. We stopped at ‘Leith Walk’ near the The Brunswick Book Club. More than fine for lunch. In the evening, neighbor Victoria serves good Italian food.
- Alandas Gelato It has multiple locations in the region. You do have to spend some money, but you get good ice cream for it.
- In Innerleithen we stopped by Traquair Arms Hotel this morning. A great place to be. For coffee + lunch you have to go to Findra Clothing & Coffee to be.
Questions & tips
Do you have any questions about this route, or have you been there yourself? Share them here. We read everything and usually respond within a few days.