Imagine: cycling for a week and experiencing adventure in the heart of the Austrian Alps. From a comfortable chalet high up on a mountain, overlooking the mountain peaks with the clouds in between. This was our trip to the Brandnertal, where we went cycling from Landal Brandnertal and got to experience what it’s like to stay as a cyclist in a mountain park. Spoiler: it’s fantastic. But your legs are going to feel it. In this article, we take you through our days of climbing, descending, graveling, exploring, and give you tips on how to go on your own.
Text & Photos: Bente & Allard Sym
More about cycling in Austria? Cycling in Austria
The journey begins: From Innsbruck to Bludenz
We travel without a car, so we take the train from Innsbruck to Bludenz. Vorarlberg. A relaxed ride of no more than two hours. Once we arrive, we first head to the supermarket. On top of the mountain, at the Landalpark, there is no full-fledged supermarket: only a small shop at the reception with a limited selection. Therefore, we stop by the Hofer (the Austrian Aldi) in the valley for dinner and some basic groceries for the upcoming days on the bike.
And then the adventure really begins: 600 meters of elevation gain in just eight kilometers, straight up – and that in the rain. The climb takes us through a landscape that is almost jungle-like: wet mossy slopes along the road, dramatic clouds hanging around the mountain peaks, and an overwhelming sense of nature all around us.
After an hour, we reach the Landalpark. It’s a bit clammy, but we’re satisfied. What a treat to curl up in our cozy little cabin! Warm wooden accents, modern decor, soft beds, and as a cherry on top: a private infrared sauna. It feels like a luxury mountain cabin, but without the sleeping bag and drafty door.
We end the day at restaurant Unicorn, right in the middle of the Landalpark. A cozy place where you can order both traditional Austrian dishes — such as Wiener Schnitzel, Kaiserschmarrn or Apfelstrudel — and international classics. We choose a pizza, a curry, and for dessert: ice cream. Exactly what we need after such a first day.
Day 1 in the Brandnertal: Glaring roads
Our first bike day starts with rain, but the forecast is correct: at eight o’clock in the morning it opens up. We roll down 600 meters from the Landalpark to the parking lot. Bakery Ruetz getting a breakfast to score; a must-try! Fresh bread rolls, good coffee (with free refills) and open every day. Even on Sundays and holidays, because that’s not standard in Austria.
After that, we make a round of almost 80 kilometers and 1700 meters of elevation gain. We cycle through the valley on rolling roads, make a stop in Feldkirch – a cozy border town between Austria and Switzerland – and enjoy the tranquility. On the way back to the park, it means climbing up that hill again. Spicy, but with a view of the mountains and the realization that you earned every meter yourself.
Upon arrival, after a short shower in the apartment, we decide to relax: first we go inside to the pool and then we enjoy the wellness area where we enjoy the saunas. Then on the balcony we have our homemade dinner and in the evening we relax while the last rays of sunshine slowly disappear from the mountain tops.
Day 2: Long climbing, mountain passes and sun
We wake up to the soft sound of water, cicadas and birds. And when we open the curtains we see the beautiful mountains, because there is a clear blue sky. What a sight! We start the day with coffee and a good breakfast on the balcony to then get ready for the cycling day. Well-hydrated and in cool cycling gear, because it’s 35 degrees today! We have planned a long route with a serious climb: 1200 meters up in one go to two mountain passes; the Faschinajoch and Furkajoch in the UNESCO Biosphere Reserve Großes Walsertal.
After breakfast, we roll down the valley on the beautiful descent with beautiful views to Bludenz, stopping there at the supermarket for some snacks on the way and then starting a climb that you won’t soon forget. We are cycling around one huge nature reserve after all. That means that you really have to cycle all the way around to complete a round. There is no shortcut. The pass goes to an altitude of 2000 meters and along the way we pass many nice restaurants, through endless hairpin bends, cows along the road and a mountain panorama that looks like the Sierra Nevada, but greener and quieter. We stop briefly before the top of the first pass for an ice cream, to refill our water and to cool off in the shade a bit. Then we cycle on a beautiful rolling road, overlooking the no-man’s-land. Here you can also enjoy a nice walk!
Beautiful descent
After the long climb, we start a beautiful and long descent. Without pedaling, we are constantly driving above 60 kilometers per hour. This descent also seems very suitable for doing as a climb, because the roads are slightly more in the forest and it is a quiet, narrow road. At the bottom of the descent, we cycle back to the famous climb in a pleasant, slightly undulating section. The 600 meters at the end of this day are very steep, but satisfied and satisfied, we conclude the day with over 100 km and 2500 meters of elevation gain. Back at the apartment, we cooked up a delicious meal and ate on the balcony again. Fortunately, it stays cool inside, so we were able to sleep well afterwards.
Day 3: Gravel adventure
Today we have gravel planned, because the Brandnertal is known as a mountain biking area, with trails, gondolas and a lively MTB atmosphere. We have mapped out a beautiful route that we dare to tackle with our 28 mm tires. Of course, you have to be willing to take the risk. From the park, we descend only 300 meters today and we take a gravel path along a river. This is a quiet, green route that provides cooling on this again warm day. In Brand, the real mountain biking madness begins: a lift for mountain bikers and hikers, and we with our ‘thin tires’ between the wide tires. We get a lot of surprised looks. The climb under the gondola is quiet and shady, but also challenging with loose stones and cows blocking the path and demanding attention – hello, Austria!
Fresh yogurt
After the steep climb, we eat fresh yogurt at the mountain lodge and drink coffee, with a view of the valley. Then we follow a rolling gravel road up to the real peak with a spectacular view. We enjoy the view and then we start a gravel descent. The first part was recently renovated and is tight and fast, so we can drive down with considerable confidence and speed. A very long stretch gets a bit rougher and more technical, because this hasn’t been renovated yet.
After descending, we reach our final small climb of the day. Here we have to climb 450 meters to get back to the park from the other side via a plateau and a short paved descent. It's nice to enter the Landalpark from the other side like this!
In the end we did a 40-kilometer round trip and 1600 meters of elevation gain, and after returning we enjoyed the park and did some shopping at the small supermarket by the reception because we didn’t come by a supermarket today (or indeed by the inhabited world). Then we did another quiet walk in and around the park before cooking, eating and relaxing.
Day 4: The Lünersee
On the last day we choose a bike & hike adventure. We go to the pearl of the Alps; the Lünersee, a quiet mountain/reservoir at 2000 meters altitude. From the park it is 20 kilometers by bike with 800 meters of elevation gain over a quiet road with beautiful views and at the top of the climb we lock our bikes, put on hiking clothes, and then start the hike of 300 meters elevation gain. This takes us about a full half hour. Alternatively, there is also a cable car for 15 euros (one way) or 24 euros (return), so when we arrive at the lake, many tourists are walking around.
The Lünersee is a fairytale: deep blue water, surrounded by jagged peaks. We drink coffee at the restaurant and take a relaxing five-kilometer walk around the lake. Here and there we still have to go through some snow. It’s not heavy or difficult, but spectacular! After we’ve walked around the lake, we descend down the same path we climbed up earlier. Our bikes are still at the same spot, we get dressed, and cycle back to Brand. First we go over the beautiful descent from the climb we took earlier today and then we only have to go up another 300 meters to the park to pick up our stuff at the reception. When we’ve packed everything, we roll all the way down to Bludenz to take the train back home.
If we take one thing away from this trip, it is how adventure and rest can go very well together, especially when you sleep on top of a mountain!
Do you want to go hiking? Then click on our route here
Brandnertal in Vorarlberg
Brandnertal is located in Vorarlberg – the most western state of Austria. It borders on Switzerland and Liechtenstein, and is relatively undiscovered by Dutch people compared to places like Tyrol or Salzburg. That is precisely why it is quieter and less touristy.
Why this valley is different
The Brandnertal is a so-called ‘Sackgasse’, a dead-end valley. There is no through traffic, so it’s completely silent. You can feel it: in the evenings you hear only water, cowbells and birds.
Same climb every day, but different
We climbed the 600-meter climb back to the Landalpark every day. But it was always different: wet, dry, with evening sun, or in the shade. Sometimes it was hard, sometimes easy. And always with a reward at the end.
Gravel instead of asphalt
We discovered that in this area you can do surprisingly much on gravel. Even if you’re used to asphalt, this is an ideal place to make the switch to flowy trails, shady forest paths, and low traffic.
Landal Brandnertal as a cycling base camp
Forget the mountain lodge, because the Landalpark combines the comfort of a hotel with the freedom of a cottage. There is a swimming pool, a wellness area, and you can cook for yourself (or have dinner, or both).
What we learned from 4 days of cycling in the mountains
That rest is just as important as miles. And that comfort and adventure don’t have to exclude each other, as long as you know where to be.
Practical tips for your Brandnertal adventure
Where to stay: Landal Brandnertal Of course. You will find luxury here, it is quiet, bike-friendly, with a swimming pool and sauna
Bike options:
- Gravel, climbing routes, and steep descents
- Please note: many mountain bike trails are less suitable for pure asphalt cyclists.
Highlights:
- Lünersee (cycling and hiking!)
- Gravel
- UNESCO biosphere park: Faschina and Furkajoch
- Backerei Ruetz
- Mountain huts and farms along the way
- The tranquility of the Landal Brandertal holiday park
Best time: Spring to autumn. Be prepared for changeable weather and snow (!)
Clothing and equipment: A windstopper/jacket is a must for the long downhill rides. Furthermore, bikepack bags are handy for carrying groceries from the valley to the park 600 meters higher. A gravel bike or MTB is best suited here, but even road cyclists can have a great time here.
An adventure that lingers
The Brandnertal is not a destination where you can go for miles without thinking too much. It is not a training location in the ordinary sense of the word. You have to climb here, persevere, and afterwards you can enjoy the nature. The contrast between the luxury in the Landalpark and the raw nature of the mountains makes it special. Did we mention the views? Unforgettable.
Do you want to discover a place where you are rewarded with silence, breathtaking views and adventure? Then the Brandnertal is your next destination.
Want to know more? Check out Landal Brandnertal and plan your own cycling adventure!
Questions & tips
Do you have any questions about this route, or have you been there yourself? Share them here. We read everything and usually respond within a few days.