Gravel in Austria is one of the best-kept secrets in Europe. Alpine gravel, but better. Not too steep, but very beautiful. We’ve already had the opportunity to experience that in other parts of this beautiful country. Erwin & Erwin, the Mountain High Chasers, went on a trip to the beautiful Vorarlberg region. They went graveling in Bregenzerwald. Is it worth it? What do you think? So, let’s get right to it!
Text: Erwin Reijneveld, photography: Erwin Visser
Culinary cycling
We set off on our gravel bikes in the Bregenzerwald, which is still unknown to us. Unknown and therefore unregarded. Although we are in Austria, we have not yet seen any sign of the higher mountains. The character of this region still has to unfold. But we are especially sober because the urgent advice was like this:.
Beneath the veil of the clouds we see the first natural beauty appear as we cycle from Au to Mellau. There follows a blissful moment of sobering up. Hotel Bären. Our first ‘Kulinarisch Radfahren’ voucher gives access to the tasty buffet. After another good cup of coffee, we leave the trendy tent behind us to start the cycling part of this concept. By ‘radfahren’, we will not only taste the culinary delights, but also experience more of the Bregenzerwald.
This cuts wood
One particularly prominent ingredient in this is wood, as it soon becomes clear. The coniferous trees are truly everywhere. And if they are not standing upright, they have certainly been handled by a human being. From bush huts, houses and buildings to furniture and tableware. If it can be made of wood, they make it of wood. It seems they think in this way in the Bregenzerwald.
They take pride in their renowned craftsmanship. Not by chance do we encounter special buildings along the route that emphasize this. In one of them, we walk inside. Workroom Haus Bregenzerwald is a modern building with a small, accessible (even the entrance is made of wood) museum about the craft industry. We can see and experience the work. Especially the „schindeln“ appeal to us. A facade cladding that is strikingly present in this region. The untreated wood is used to cover the facades. It looks like wooden fishing fins. As time and weather take their toll, the facades change color and character.
More architecture
In addition to the Werkraum, there is even more unique architecture to be seen in Andelsbuch. We’ll take a look at it, but this time from a bike. After all, we almost forgot what brought us here. With the first gravel climb approaching, it’s now really our turn to get to work.
We drive into the forest. Crackling stones and rustling leaves are drowned out by the wild river, which seems to follow the same route. Only above the river does the peace come. We drive away from the river. On paths intended for the farmers, but which secretly seem to have been created for us.
Back to the inhabited world
The calm allows us to pass by, after which we descend back towards the populated world. Then follows a steep climb on asphalt, ending under the umbrellas of the Berghaus Kanisfluh, Here we exchange the second voucher for a seriously tasty plate of Austrian food. Meanwhile, our eyes are drawn in the same direction. Indeed, the mountain landscape is fantastic!
With a sweet tooth in mind, we burn off some of our lunch on the way to the final voucher payment. The kilometers quickly disappear under our wheels. After carefully choosing the most delicious looking pastry, we walk out of hotel Die Wälderin again. Our eye falls for a moment on the latest mega map with off-road bike routes. They really do have a thing for our type of people here. Behind the beautiful decoration of our table we see the Mellaubahn. Why not, we think. With our online Guest Card Bregenzerwald & Großes Walsertal (free public transport and cable cars from three nights in summer; you can order this from us) we have everything we need to enjoy our holiday. here online. We step into the ski gondola. To relax in a meadow in a mountain pasture wearing only ski pants without a bike, we head towards Germany. Our muscles and senses are optimally stimulated today.
Into the Wold Event
One day later. The still calm Mellau was suddenly filled with gravel. At the start line, like-minded people gathered together. Under a sunny glow and the sounds of the local orchestra, trendy wristbands were tied on participants. Relaxation prevails.
The speaker takes over. Last instructions and repeated “this is not a race”. The motivational countdown ends, we are gone. A few hundred men and (surprisingly many) women cycle in rows through the town. My front wheel searches, methodically, eagerly for wheels that go faster past. But today is different. No race, no competition. It’s just a bit of getting used to for us. Which is actually wonderful. Safe and smooth, we get going and move through the populated world without any problems before leaving it behind.
It’s not a race, but without a fight we won’t be able to get back to Mellau. A steep gravel climb puts everyone in silence. It goes on like this for a long time, until we cycle among the alpine meadows. We leave the wide path behind to continue the route at a walking trail width. Here we are truly ‘Into the Wold’. Over a fence, a short climb with the bike on your shoulder, dodging big stones, over the farmer’s yard, and when asphalt isn’t required, a whole new world opens up.
Back to the future
For the first refueling, we return to yesterday’s Werkraum. Vegetable soup in bamboo bowls and organic soda. It’s a modern gravel event! And so on. The definition of gravel itself is debatable. However, that’s no longer the case; all attention is focused on controlling the bike on these loose rocks. A brief off-the-saddle ride uphill is answered by a slipping rear wheel. It’s clear that this is not the gravel we’re used to in the Netherlands. Playing with the bike adds to the joy. A deafening waterfall, countless streams of water over the ‘road’, cows with bells, and the other cyclists do the rest. It’s a festive adventure in the Bregenzerwald.
The party really kicks off when we reach the second stop. Empty bikes are lying draped over the grass; a seemingly abandoned barn has been transformed into an Instagram-worthy food point; beach chairs are positioned in the right direction; and we grab a bottle of fresh water (let the beer sit for a while) from the hollowed-out tree trunk that serves as a fridge with cold mountain water. Around us is a river, some houses, mountains, and relaxing hikers. Have we ever had such a beautiful stop? No!
The long journey home
After Schönenbach (and the stream was beautiful!), we do what most people don’t do: continue the long route. Upwards, of course. Even the Wold itself eventually ends, after which we see the snowy high mountain range from the trees and the mountain peaks in the distance. We pause to listen to nothing. We see a cyclist slowly approaching. The older man spent his childhood here and is back for the event of the day. He seems just as impressed by the surroundings as we are.
A quick descent that turns unpaved into paved ground brings us back to the inhabited world of Au. We maximize the short distance to the finish in Mellau. How do you think? Now, with a long, steep climb to the ski resort where we came yesterday for free by gondola. Once back in Mellau, it all comes down to the same thing. The short distance, the long one, or a self-chosen mix. Everyone is beaming with the idea that they had a great day. Sweatingly we sit down with a beer and a cocktail table by the big screen. Among the Austrians, we see Romain Bardet take the yellow jersey in the Tour de France.
Caught
As evening falls, we look out from the landscaped pool over the Bregenzerwald. We marvel at the region we did not know a few days ago. We feel like guests, not the main source of income (tourism contributes 40% to the local economy here). It is sparsely populated, with more cows than people in some villages. The people who are there are friendly. The mountains also look friendly, the color green almost never fades. The places, the buildings, they look fresh and authentic. It is a combination of traditional and modern architecture, in harmony with nature. We are sold, although we don’t shout it out. Out of respect for the peace and quiet.
Gravel route Bregenzerwald – Into the Wold
Where we stayed plus more tips
On this trip we were supported by the Bregenzerwald Tourismus Verband. They had arranged a beautiful hotel for us in the beautiful AU. Hotel Adler, a classic name and a beautiful place to explore the region.
We took part in the Into the Wold event at the end of June. You can find all the info about this cool engraving event here. via the link to the organization.
If you want to learn more about gravel biking in the Bregenzerwald, take a look at the website of the tourism office: https://www.bregenzerwald.at/en/thema/summer-activities/mountainbiking-and-cycling/gravel-bike-tours/
Questions & tips
Do you have any questions about this route, or have you been there yourself? Share them here. We read everything and usually respond within a few days.