I love Italy. Point. The beauty of the country, the people, the food. I think I really fell in love about 25 years ago. That's when I heard the language, was in Bolzano and Merano. From then on, Italy has been high on my cycling holiday hit list. The fact that I now also speak Italian, I think, helps feed my love. It makes for deeper connections during my travels. So too in Puglia. The heel of the boot is becoming increasingly popular with cycling tourists. Cycling in southern Italy is highly recommended anyway. The landscape invites you to go cycling and the 'cucina povera', where simple dishes dominate, is delicious. We settled in and around Fasano.
Casino
Admittedly, southern Italy is a diamond in the rough. Certainly the province of Calabria is rough. Not only because of its mafia influences, but also because of its landscape. The same applies to Puglia (or Apulia in Dutch) to some extent, although the mafia influence seems to be less here. Perhaps appearances can be deceiving. The province of Puglia stretches like a long ribbon along the Adriatic coast and has the provinces of Basilicata, Campania and Molise as neighbours.
Southern Italy is an experience and you can see that as soon as you get from the plane to your destination. Car hire is a little less slick than in other EU countries, the locals drive lopsided on the road (sometimes in the middle of two lanes) and overtaking is possible on both the left and the right. You sometimes find a small rubbish tip in random places and if you blink twice south of Bari you really do see a streetwalking zone along the motorway. As the Italians call it themselves: casino!
Basecamp Fasano
Fasano is a wonderful place to explore the area from. In this part of Italy, you will find lots of old 'Masserie'. Stately farmhouses or actually country houses where you can spend a wonderful night. Around Fasano we find place in Borgo San Marco and from there we move into the surrounding area. That area is partly characterised by the coastline. You can drive from the Gargano in the north, all the way 'lungomare' to the south. The coastline is sometimes rugged, but with lots of beautiful rocks and other natural beauty.
White house
Another feature is the many white villages and towns. You see these distinctive houses from Polignano a Mare to Lecce, From Bari to Ostuni and Locorotondo. It is specific to this region and it gives a very pleasant atmosphere. The first round we do goes towards Cisternino (pronounced Sister NEEEEEENO by American tourists) and back along the coast via the hill town of Ostuni. In 50 kilomter you so grab the essence of this region. You start almost by the sea and there is a ridge of hills from north to south that you climb up. Hairpin bends and steep gradients are rare here, but that is the beauty of it. You drive from village to town and often have wide views of the surroundings. Puglia is special in that respect.
Monopoli - Alberobello
Near Fasano you will find the town of Monopoli. You must have been here once for the name alone. As well as the Trulli houses of Alberobello. This piece of UNESCO world heritage is defining for the region. You can drive here on a scenic Sunday round. Take some time to walk or drive through the streets and see the cottages. It is a very special sight. To get there you can take several routes from Fasano, but it pays to drive further into the Valle d'Istria via Martina Franca and then back towards Alberobello, Putignano and then Monopoli via Massafra. Beautiful views, you drive through wine and olive fields and the only thing you really have to watch out for is the potholes in the road. On a Sunday morning it's very quiet here, so do it!
Other options
Of course, Puglia is bigger than Fasano and its surroundings, but we were only able to catch a brief glimpse around Fasano due to time and location. In the Gargano, it is stunning with beautiful views and wonderful beaches. A little further inland, you can have your fun in the hills around Foggio. Cycling in southern Italy is a must!
