A vast expanse lies before us. As we make long strides across a craggy gravel path, a light breeze blows in our faces. The sun shines on this spring day. This is Zeeland-West Flanders at its best. WThis is Zeeland-West Flanders, to be exact. A piece of the Netherlands with its own identity. Here Zeeland and Flanders come together. A touch of Burgundian charm, but in the countryside. Flat roads, but also gravel roads. A coastline that is popular with many, but where you can find the tranquility of the countryside that you don’t find in the Randstad. This route takes you on a muddy gravel adventure, along the beautiful coastline of West Zeeland-West Flanders.
Sluis
A sweet sticky Zeeuwse delicacy, with a name that sometimes makes you frown. The Zeeuwse Bolus, a beloved companion of a good cup of coffee. Bakery Sint Paulus In Sluis, they know how to handle it. If you’re going to go for an extra calorie bomb anyway, this one is definitely worth it. It’s no coincidence that this is also the starting point of our route. Is there such a thing as coincidence? I don’t think so. Sluis is definitely a beautiful place to stop by. With the city wall, the picturesque center, and the name of a culinary hotspot, Sluis is the place to stop by!
The Vanished Zwinhavens
The region around Bruges and Sluis was a prosperous commercial metropolis in the 12th and 13th centuries. The sea connection with Bruges, there were several ‘Zwin havens’. The Zwin, a natural area that is mostly located in Belgium, But also partly in the Netherlands, this is a wonderful treasure trove. Here you can spot birds, you literally cross the border and you are in a beautiful UNESCO World Heritage Site. Global Geopark. Not too bad.
If you’re going cycling here, you’ll be passing by the water. It’s sometimes a matter of dodging a few other cyclists, but on the wide gravel paths that’s no problem at all. A stop at the visitor center of the Zwin for a rest or a small ‘apero’ is highly recommended. Further along you’ll find Boerenverdriet. Actually, it’s a three-way intersection, with a hill and a border post on it. A sign for ‘Boerenverdriet’, with the explanation for the name nicely explained on the site of Gastvrij Zeeuws-Vlaanderen.
Boerenland is perfect for gravel
As a commuter, I used to make some bad jokes about less populated areas in the Netherlands. Let’s call it youthful ignorance. In recent years, I’ve been repeatedly surprised by the beauty of ‘the farming country’. Because let’s be honest: many gravel roads or cobbled lanes are originally peasant paths. There is therefore a strong correlation between less populated areas and good gravel routes. City gravel is still a gimmick and for the most beautiful gravel routes in the Netherlands you’ll soon find yourself in the Achterhoek, Drenthe and… West Zeeuws-Vlaanderen! Two-lane gravel paths stretching for kilometers that make even the average gravel enthusiast drool. We’re also spoiled in this route.
Fortifications, churches and squares
In the Zeeland-Flemish region you will find not only kilometers of gravel roads, but also a number of beautiful sights. Pay special attention to the walls of Retranchement, the church, the wall (and the walls) around Sluis, and the church tower of St. Anna ter Muiden that you can see in the distance. The towers of the church form landmarks in the distance. In the past, it was easy to orient yourself, but even now it is useful, especially if you get lost on the way. Furthermore, it is a nice change of pace in the typical lowland, which is so characteristic of Zeeland. In that lowland you will also find many streets with cobblestones, also known as kasseien.
Along the coast
As sung by the Zeeland band Bløf, the Zeeland coast is truly beautiful. In this route, you cover a large part of this coastline, starting from Hoofdplaat, via Breskens and then all the way to Cadzand. The wind will always be a factor, but when there is storm, you will have to squint a little. I myself always find water and the sea magical. It is incredible to see this natural phenomenon and to think that Zeeland has such a special and sometimes dark historical relationship with water. Often deployed during times of war, but also that first February night in 1953. That is why following the coastline is a must-do. It also makes a lovely addition to the route!
Tips and the route itself
- As described, a stop in Sluis is a ‘must-do’. We recommend the bolus at Bakkerij Sint-Paulus.
- Lunch in Breskens is also an idea in itself. We have Blossom Kitchen & Bar We had a more than good lunch. The pancake house next door didn't look too bad either.
- Along this route, you encounter relatively few strenuous activities. Just before Breskens, there is the Speel- en Bunkerpark Groede Podium, and later in the route you can make a stop at Biervliet or back at Hoofdplaat. From Breskens to Cadzand, you will find 17 beach pavilions that are open all year round.
- Woest17 That would be a good tip. However, please bring a lock with you to secure your bike.
- The little corner near Sint Anna ter Muiden, just before the finish, you can create yourself. The caretaker of the church would be happy to take you on a historical journey.
- If you want to spend a pleasant night, consider staying at Breydelhoeve in Retranchement.
Gravel route: A Zilt Gravel Adventure
This article and this trip were made possible in part by Welcoming Zeeland-Flanders. More information about the region and other inspiring routes can be found on the website of Gastvrij Zeeuws-Vlaanderen.
Read also: Pioneering gravel racing in West-Zeeuws-Vlaanderen
Questions & tips
Do you have any questions about this route, or have you been there yourself? Share them here. We read everything and usually respond within a few days.