That the island Funen is a wonderful cycling destination should now be clear. On day 3 of their trip, Andrea and Maks ride the final stretch of the Herregårdsruten, the mansion route on 'Bike Island Fyn', as the region has called itself. Cycling on Funen, it's enjoyment all over again! Also, don't forget the first two articles of this beautiful trip.
- Cycling on Funen - On the road with Andrea and Maks - Day 1
- Herregårdsruten: Cycling on Funen, with Andrea and Maks
Text: Andrea Lodder - Photos: Andrea Lodder - Maks Groeneveld
Time flies when you're having fun
Today is already the last day of our trip. I open the curtains of our cosy room and see a watery sun coming out from behind the grey clouds through the slightly fogged-up windows. A bit of a gloomy day, but with another delicious Danish breakfast behind us, we get on our bikes. First we ride back and forth to the nearby Helnæs peninsula. According to the hotel owners, it's also worth a visit.
Atlantic road dreaming
You may be familiar with the 'Atlantic Ocean Road' in Norway. This is actually a bit like it. Slightly less imposing, but the road is surrounded by the sea from both left and right. The winding road, about 1.5km long, leads you to the island of just 19km². If you drive all the way to the southernmost tip, you will encounter a cottage, gallery, restaurant and finally Helnæs lighthouse along the way. We shot the necessary pictures and start the route for today. Which today will take us to Svendborg via Faaborg.
Nice cruising
Today we had a bit more momentum (for us). At least, for the first hour. Because the further we ride away from the coast, the more climbs we are presented with. Nice rolling roads of up to about 5%. You can rightly call it hilly today. To the left is a meadow with pigs, and a little further on one with alpacas. They don't really do cows here, we can count them on two hands so far. Meanwhile, the grey clouds have been replaced by a beautiful blue sky with soft clouds and it is even getting a bit warm. Finally.
Surprises
As the route has surprised us more in recent days, it does so again. The navigation says turn right. Right across the golf course, into the forest. Fine. A winding forest path that turns into a paved path is a nice change from the beautiful asphalt roads. Small stone walls and wooden fences give it a slightly English feel. Another short stretch before we have the sea in sight again at Faaborg, where we have lunch at one of the region's better fish cafés.
Faaborg harbor
There is a lot going on in Faaborg harbour, so it is busy. We haven't seen that many people in the past few days. But that also makes sense. There are many boats here, and it's a super nice and colourful little town a bit like Volendam. Right in the harbour you will find the Øhavsmuseet. In this museum you will find a lot of Fyn's history and nature. Very interesting if you like history. A little further on, we see the Røgeri Café, that's where we need to be. By now it is also lunchtime, so timing wise we are doing well! As if it were meant to be, a table right by the water is free. In the café are the most beautiful and delicious freshly caught fish. From salmon steaks to prawns and real fish fricadelles. We, on the other hand, go nice and simple for the Fish & Chips. Under the watchful eye of several large seagulls, we finish our plate.
Sloping roads
We roll out of Faaborg again and continue along the rolling roads. On the way, we pass a sign indicating otters might be crossing a couple of times. That's where our inner Freek Vonk comes to the surface for a moment, so we slow down a bit at each passage and hope to catch a glimpse of these creatures, but alas. Still, Denmark has a rich and varied flora and fauna. Secretly, it is more beautiful here than we thought!
The starfish
It is about 4 o'clock and we arrive in Svendborg at Stella Maris. A beautiful waterfront hotel and restaurant. With a luxurious room overlooking the water 'Svendborgsund', we step into our last evening. Just as luxurious is the 10-course dinner carefully compiled by Dutch chef Semmy Woudenberg. From delicious langoustine to beetroot and a caramel dessert to lick your fingers at. Normally, we are not into fine dining, but since we are here, we had better get the full-experience. We can't imagine a nicer ending to this trip.
Tomorrow morning, we will take the train back to Odense where we will reload the car and make the journey back to the Netherlands. A drive of +/- 7h. But, fair is fair. We'd rather spend 7h on the bike than in the car. Intensely enjoyed the beautiful and especially serene peace and quiet here on Fyn.
Final thoughts
As I mentioned, you may not immediately think of Denmark as a bustling cycling resort, but when you want to seek peace and quiet, this is what you need. Now, we only rode part of the Herregårdsruten on the island of Fyn. But if you cycle the whole route, you will also visit the islands of Langeland and Ærø during the 660km. A route guaranteed to bring adventure, and what is also quite unique; the route is fully signposted. In short, Denmark is highly recommended if you've had enough of the standard cycling destinations and are ready for something new!
Cycling on Funen day 3: the route!
ALs you also want to go cycling on Funen, check out our routes on komoot.
