The Dutch Wadden Sea has been a UNESCO World Heritage Site since 2009. The Wadden Sea is a vast area that stretches from Den Helder all the way to Esjberg in Denmark runs. This area is often underestimated because at first glance it lacks a 'landmark'. Of course, there is the afsluitdijk, but for many cyclists this is not the reason to take the bike. The famous climbs or a course history with a classic are somewhat lacking. The area is characterised by the construction of dykes against flooding, but mainly by its beautiful unspoilt nature. While many Dutch people make the trip to the islands and ignore this part, it is really worth staying on the mainland. Ruben Hoogland and Rik de Voogd went to enjoy three days along the Wadden in 2021. This is their report.
Text: Rik de Voogd - Photo: Acid Films/Maarten Zuur
Day 1 - North Holland
I had no idea this part of the Netherlands was so beautiful. We start our three-day trip in Den Helder. From there, you can see the outline of the Wadden Sea island of Texel, further out in the Wadden Sea. From here, Ruben and I drive south along the coastline. The dunes here actually look similar to the dunes at Hoek van Holland. A familiar sight, although all dunes are different.
As soon as we drive east, the tulip fields emerge. At this time of year (our visit was in spring), the colour palette of the tulip bulbs is overwhelmingly beautiful. Actually, we know quite little about the tulip industry.
Tulip company
We made a stop at Floratuin Julianadorp to be taken through the ups and downs of a tulip business by owner Arno. rno grew up as a butcher's son, but he saw little point in succeeding his father. Many of his friends were 'into flowers' especially tulips and daffodils. With his father's support, Arno set up his own business in flowers at a young age in his early 20s. He grew steadily and eventually he now sells more than 300 different varieties of spring and summer bloomers.
Arno mainly works on mixing species to create hybrid variations in all kinds of unique colours. Arno is passionate about his craft and he showed us around the whole company. Definitely a highlight of the day. After this passionate meeting, we feasted on a delicious lunch at restaurant In the village. That one was certainly allowed to be there too.
Valve
Our ride then took us to the port of Den Oever, before crossing the Afsluitdijk. This 32-kilometre-long closure of the IJsselmeer is currently closed to bicycle traffic. A pity, as we would have loved to do the views to either side by bike. The only way to get from North Holland directly to Friesland now is by bus and after arriving, we cycled the last 10 kilometres to Harlingen. In the authentic Frisian town, a room had been reserved at Hotel de Bank.
Day 2 - Friesland
The second leg in our three-day adventure took us from picturesque Harlingen to Dokkum. After a good night's sleep in a fancy suite, we were also treated to a very good breakfast at Hotel de Bank. It was the kickstart to our day. Driving out of Harlingen, you have to cross the almost inevitable bridges that span the small ditches and canals. That way, we continued our journey northwards, along the beautiful Wadden coast. Our journey is framed by the typical Dutch skies. On the way to our final destination, we stop in the village of Sint Annaparochie, where we get talking to farmer Teun de Jong and his wife Froukje. They invite us for a coffee stop, which we were ready for.
Family Business
Teun and Froukje's family farm has existed since the late 1800s and is called 'The Bildt'. The main product here is (growing) potatoes. Farmer Teun tells his story about the creation of the landscape through time, largely by nature, with a helping hand from man and why this land is so suitable for growing potatoes. His story about the entire production process from planting to harvesting and how potatoes find their way to all sorts of corners of the world inspires me immensely. I am impressed by his story also because farm life is not something I am very familiar with.
After we relax in the garden enjoying a good cup of coffee and Teun's stories, we also get a tour of the old and the brand new farmhouse. By the minute, I gain more respect for this duo and their way of life. I certainly won't forget to emphasise this even more at our farewell
Lunch
Our next stop is already in sight. This time we settle down at Restaurant de Zwarte Haan. This location is unique, as it is right by the sea and completely surrounded by nature. Lunch is fantastic. We get another local dessert and the double espressos make us more than happy.
After climbing back on our bikes, we continue riding along the coastline and we fall from one surprise into another. Bright green grass on the dykes where sheep and lambs graze, the quietest streets and roads we have ever seen. Occasional glimpses of the Wadden Sea on our left and we see the islands of Vlieland, Terschelling and Ameland appear in the distance.
A bit inland, you mostly encounter authentic farms surrounded by endless countryside. If you like peaceful silence, space and endless views, this is the place to be. And what is even more special on this flat land: we rode 30 altimeters in 100 kilometres.
Day 3 - Groningen
The wadden region is really vast. On our last day, we drove from Dokkum in Friesland to Winsum in Groningen. We spent the night in a gorgeous Tiny house in the Schreiershoek recreation area near Dokkum. After another sumptuous breakfast (can we eat more?), we jumped on our bikes towards the province of Groningen.
Once again, we drive along the beautiful coast where we drive up the dykes while also trying to avoid the sheep. The endless views of the Wadden Sea never bore. The sea forms a beautiful body of water punctuated by the familiar mudflats and marshy land. The view changes with every hour.
Especially in combination with the partial cloud cover we had. In the northern Netherlands, the provinces of Friesland and Groningen are separated by the Lauwersmeer, which has been created. It is nevertheless a UNESCO national park known for its pristine nature and good bird watching opportunities.
We stop briefly at the little port of Zoutkamp, known for its eel fishing. An hour later, we rejoin alk in Niehove for a nice lunch break. Finally, after 113 kilometres, we arrive in Winsum at Camping Marenland, where we spend the last night. We sit together and need to process all the wonderful impressions for a while.
Some thoughts
This trip ended up being beyond our expectations. Perhaps the good weather helped, but the region completely exceeded our expectations. This region is perhaps the most beautiful natural environment in our country. We had mapped out beautiful routes and they certainly did not disappoint. If you too get inspired, absolutely go there. You will not be disappointed
For this trip, we mainly used the information from www.visitwadden.nl - the official site of this tourism area. You can find more route inspiration on Rik's Komoot page.
