Cycling in northern Macedonia: Lake Ohrid

In the series 'The Tears of Tito', Iva Bicanic goes back to the former Yugoslavia in search of stories. So too to northern Macedonia, known to many from...yes, from what actually? Apart from the capital Skopje, northern Macedonia is best known for its various lakes. Funnily enough, northern Macedonia shares a number of lakes with neighbouring countries. For instance, the Prespa lake partly in Greece and Albania, Lake Doiran is also partly Greek and the most important lake, Ohrid, is also shared with Albania. Lake Ohrid is the most beautiful and special of the three. It is a UNESCO World Heritage Site and is the deepest lake in Europe, at 288 metres. The town of Ohrid is the most important place but Sveti Naum is also interesting. Cycling in northern Macedonia cannot be done without a lap around Lake Ohrid. It is a fantastic route.

Basecamp Ohrid

The charming town of Ohrid is located on the north-east side of the lake. The town itself is a perfect base for a cycling holiday in and around the lake. Should you have some time to spare, it is more than worthwhile to take a closer look at Ohrid too. So the town (and the lake, in other words) are on the UNESCO world heritage list. It is one of the oldest cities in Europe. They spent a long time on it, as the city was built over almost 12 centuries, between the 7th and 19th centuries. You can find all kinds of historical buildings, including the Saint Pantelejmon monastery but also remains of churches and other religious buildings. Cycling in northern Macedonia doesn't get more beautiful than this.

Easy rider

The route around the lake is not the most challenging, if you only follow the route along the edge of the lake. Total route then is 90 kilometres with a small climb, the Kafasan Pass in the Albanian section. A total of 35 kilometres of the route goes through the neighbouring country. Still, we have added a little bit of 'spice', by climbing to Galičica. That does make it a bit longer, but also a whole lot more beautiful. At the summit, you can look out over both Lake Prespa and Ohrid. That is worth a climb of 850 metres altitude and 15 kilometres in length! Northern Macedonia at its best, where you also get to see part of neighbouring Greece can see.

Off we go

From Ohrid, we head south. We follow the P1301, the local route. The tarmac is fine and the first twenty kilometres are a bit undulating but you don't really have to get out of the saddle. The beautiful lake on the left is a bit far away for the first few kilometres, but at Dolno Konjsko you get a nice view of the lake. It is clear why this region is on the UNESCO list. After 13 kilometres, you get a very steep bit to deal with. About 200 metres long at ten per cent ascent. Meanwhile, you also pass the Bay of Bones. This museum "Plocha Michov Grad", is a place of great historical significance. Not a convenient stop for a real cycling tour, but worth a visit. Further down the road, after 20 kilometres you come to the bottom of the climb to Galičica.

Galičica

This climb makes the lap around Lake Ohrid a lot more interesting. The climb actually starts still on the route along the lake. The first 2200 metres are still the coastal road and then you turn left up the climb. Here begins thirteen kilometres of pure pleasure. You cover 690 altitude metres here and if you continue all the way to the top you have another 1,200 metres of flat and a descent. After four kilometres on this climb, the first part is pretty clear, you come to a very steep section. It then goes half a kilometre above the 10% and you ride over beautiful hairpins here. Even two kilometres later it is still quite challenging, but after that it doesn't get into the double digits. Which is nice too, because then you can enjoy the beautiful views and scenery. The pictures say it all.

Descending to Albania

Once at the top, it is advisable to stop and have a quick look at both lakes. Unfortunately, there is no coffee shop or tourist stop on top, so you'll just have to make do with the views of Prespa and Ohrid. Then you descend again (brilliant descent, but watch out for traffic) and turn left at the bottom towards Albania. You drive a bit more inland here and halfway through the total distance you'll come to the monastery of St Naum. This is another beautiful spot and one of the most beautiful monasteries in northern Macedonia.

Amazing Albania

We have done this part of the route in reverse before described. That this is also stunning should come as no surprise. You follow the lake here for 35 kilometres and the last ten kilometres take you up a nice hill towards the border with northern Macedonia. If you are still looking for a nice lunch stop, along the southern shore of Lake Ohrid, off Pogradec you can find several cool waterfront spots. We recommend: Smoked Duck. It won't surprise you what's on the menu, but it's high quality!

So after a good lunch, it's another 20 kilometres on to the climb. Halfway up this climb, you are (coincidentally) surprised again with a few hundred metres above the 10%. Then you have to press on a bit, but otherwise this pimple is not very much. About three per cent average over its almost seven kilometres length. The summit is roughly on the border, with a nice view. Near the border there is a café where you can stop for a while to refuel some energy for the last 30 kilometres. These are not extremely tough, but after more than 90 kilometres it is not a luxury.

Final stretch

The last 30 kilometres are also pure enjoyment. After the border, you ride a few kilometres inland. At Kalishta we pick up the lakeside route again and until the finish in Ohrid it's complete enjoyment again. Via Struga, you follow the route to Ohrid and have a wonderful day on the bike behind you!

Would you like to go here too?