Wanderlust. A typical German word from our eastern neighbors, which is difficult to translate into one word in Dutch. Wanderlust is the desire to travel. To go somewhere else. Is that the driving force behind the men of the Pedaleurs (Maarten and Robbert) to undertake a bikepacking trip from the Overijssel region to the northern Danish town of Aars? Or is it rather that quest for ‘Hygge’? Another word, this time from the Danish language, that does not appear in Dutch as a word. Hygge stands for everything that is pleasant, nice, and good. So this multi-day cycling trip is just that exactly. Or was it secretly a mid-life thing after all? Two 40-year-olds who still want to prove something. Cycling to Denmark, captured in a beautiful story. Enjoy!
Pubescent joke
Rectum – Aars is first and foremost a bike touring trip that evolved from a joke of a teenager’s mind of a geography teacher. A joke that you have to make. At Pedaleurs we’re not just talking about creating cool bike adventures. We want to experience what it’s like to sit in the saddle for six long days in a row. It’s just fantastic to do nothing but ride, eat, and sleep. Eat, sleep, bike, repeat. That’s all there is to it.
Credit Card Packing
The term ‘bikepacking trip’ is, however, a bit of a trick. Hardcore bikepackers sniggered that our plan actually had to be titled ’creditcardpacking”: After all, if you bike from hotel to hotel you only need your credit card. Hardcore endurance cyclists even scoffed at the distance: 800 kilometers in six days. Oh well. A bit of a randonneur doesn’t even get out of bed for that. Anyway: For us, it was and still is biking. Living the dream to the max! Full days of cycling, crossing land borders, crossing borders, experiencing cool bike adventures, and talking about them in the evening during a podcast. That’s exactly what Pedaleurs is all about.
It’s all about the preparation
It has to be said: The preparation and equipment couldn’t be lacking. Not even allowed to be lacking: New bags, clothes and shoes, a two-time #bike parade, plus a meticulously planned route. Even the biggest skeptic would undoubtedly claim that everything would go smoothly. And the date has already been set: April 29th departure from Rectum and arrival in Aars on May 3rd. And here the doubt slightly begins to creep in… Then one ride of 200 kilometers has to be completed, with four 150-kilometer rides afterwards. Aren’t we overestimating ourselves? The response via social media regarding our plans also doesn’t bring the desired confidence. The diehard bikepackers find our plans ‘bold’, ‘brave’ or even ‘a real challenge’. The randonneurs keep grumbling.
Extra day off?
After mutual consultation, we Tukkers decide to dedicate a day to it. Of course, after careful deliberation with our families. Leaving a day earlier means leaving for a longer period of time.
The closer the departure day gets, the more intense the contact becomes. Countless phone calls, texts and photos of the preparation moments. The bikes are prepared, the tires are quickly tubeless-inflated, the bags are assembled as a test run and even packed. The latter is a bit of a hassle anyway: Collecting the materials and stuffing them into bags. Packing the bags, unpacking them, packing them again, cursing, unpacking them again and doing that a few more times. Constantly going over everything; do we really need this and how can we pack everything in such an efficient way that cycling remains enjoyable? That your bike, including the saddlebag, doesn’t feel like a glorified ‘exceptional convoy’.
One day before departure, two pairs of very nice DMT gravel shoes are also purchased. Just need to install the shoe plates correctly. That turns out to be a bit of a hassle in retrospect. Once all this is done, it only means one thing: The material can’t be the problem… From now on, the legs will have to do the talking.
Wanderlust
Day 1: Rectum – Cloppenburg! (151 kilometers)
“The head is off!”
On April 28th, we leave Hellendoorn and Nijverdal to drive first to our official starting point, Rectum. Fortunately, during our first day we are partly protected from the wind by ‘glamping’ Jeroen Gerrits and Joey van Rhee. Before the official departure from Rectum, Robbert has to adjust his shoelaces a bit. And that’s just the beginning. In Nordhorn, Jeroen heads home and Robbert fixes his shoelaces for the first time again. Will this be the last time?
First Gravel
Soon we come across the first gravel tracks, which you can find a lot in Germany: a semi-open landscape with gravel tracks between the plowed fields and meadows. Along the forest edges, a high-chair stands every 100 meters for the hunters.
In Lingen we said goodbye to Joey. From now on we are on our own. On a boring bike path along a busy road, we suddenly see a beautiful gravel path on the right.
With Bas Overbeek’s tip from Detour studio in mind (“the most beautiful parts are found during a detour”), we decide to take the plunge right away: We deviate from the route and take a small detour. The stretch through the forest is truly beautiful, while we are never more than 2 kilometers away from the main road. The landscape along the rest of the route is open and has enough gravel roads to make your fingers itch. While we enjoy the route, we ‘just’ drive into the center of Cloppenburg.
After showering, we still walk through the center of Cloppenburg. After 5 minutes of walking, Maarten gave up on his hip-looking boots. They were cheap and, thanks to an elastic band, they didn’t take up much space on the way. But that was about it. They didn’t move an inch. In a sports shop in the center, Maarten disappeared from view for a moment. He found a massage chair and tested it thoroughly. Still, it was kind of a happy ending at the end of the day.
Day 2: Cloppenburg – Buxteheide (156 kilometers)
“Through Bremen”
After a good breakfast, we set off full of wanderlust from Parkhotel Cloppenburg. We were looking forward to it, even though it would be a long day on horseback. We immediately started with some beautiful gravel tracks towards Bremen: forest edges, lots of hunter cabins and lovely gravel paths. After 75km we entered Bremen via a beautiful gravel track. That is the advantage of Komoot: Thanks to the highlights in the program, with a little bit of searching, the most beautiful gems can be found. Even in the middle of a big city. Bremen really has a beautiful old city center. Time for coffee and lunch in the large square with a view of the Cathedral and the Town Hall.
Podcast studio Bremen
On the terrace, we record the first podcast of the day.
We get on the bike again to leave Bremen via a fantastic cycle path. Soon we find ourselves on the commuter bike path towards the Lilienthal. The rest of the route towards Buxtehude consists mainly of cycle paths and traffic-free roads, although just before the final destination we are treated to a number of beautiful gravel sections. After 158 kilometers, day 2 is also over. Time to check in, record a podcast, and shower. Then it’s time for the daily Facetime moments with the family back home.
Day 3: Buxtehude – Rendsburg (133 kilometers)
“Twice through a tunnel!”
After a hearty breakfast, we face the wind from the north. After just one hundred meters from the hotel, we enter the urban area of Hamburg. The first thirty kilometers are non-stop urbanized area. Until ‘the real’ Hamburg, it is a lot of driving on sidewalks with traffic lights that slow down the pace. Sometimes the bike path is on the left of the road in Germany, then on the right of the road, and usually the condition of that bike path is also of lamentable quality. As if the road construction company had stacked the remaining asphalt they had left behind one after another in order to somehow create a kind of bike path. Especially for Robbert, this is not the most pleasant part: Stopping for a traffic light, getting out, driving off, and stopping again. Painful.
Next hurdle
Once we reach the embankment along the Elbe, the industrial area/port is the next challenge. Due to work on the railway, one of the bridges is closed, but with a little luck we can cross the bridge and start searching for the St Pauli – Elbe cycle tunnel. What a special experience to cycle through the tunnel. First we go down by elevator, then we drive through a fantastic tunnel.
Beyond Hamburg
After passing Hamburg we reach the rural North Germany, where the many potato fields and forest plots alternate at a rapid pace. From time to time we pick up a nice gravel strip and we notice that the landscape is really changing: It is much more hilly and more wooded. Almost all of it is Scandinavian.
Are you a geography teacher or not?
Maarten’s geography heart is working overtime on this day: “Look at that… a penguin ruin. I’ve never seen one in real life. Wow!” And: “Did you know that the stones that are lying here in the meadows come all the way from the ice caps in Scandinavia?”
Meanwhile, the wind kept blowing hard at us (or was that a feeling?), but that didn’t dampen the fun. With a satisfied feeling, we finally reached Rendsburg, where for the second time that day we were treated to a pedestrian tunnel under the water. Our hotel is located just outside the city center in a somewhat run-down neighborhood. Well… hotel? On the outside it looks more like a closed nursing home for the elderly. But anyway; Don’t judge a book by its cover: The reception is fine and the room is okay. However, we’re just keeping our bikes in the room for safety’s sake. Tomorrow we’ll finish in Denmark! Hygge!
Day 4: Rendsburg – Aabenraa (105 kilometers)
“Across the border”
After leaving Rendsburg, we immediately climbed up and drove through wooded areas where we felt alone in the world for a moment. Along each forest, grassland or field, the hunting cabins were left abandoned. All of them waiting for that one hunter who wanted to temporarily settle down to take a deer, deer, hare or other animal from a protected and elevated position. For the same reason, we have also unknowingly looked in a loop, but if the old meat would continue on the gravel or forest path.
It’s Sunday, May 1st. The day of labor. And we can see it as we approach Flensburg. In the forests, there are more hikers and young people sitting by the water having a barbecue. Although we are well fueled after our stop with coffee and carrot cake, the bbq smells very delicious. For a while we drive along a gravel path by the water, then we head back up again, but especially to the neighbors across the border. After 7km we are finally in the promised land! Cycling to Denmark, who would have thought it?.
Welcome to Denmark!
In Denmark we got even more wind for our sails and in the face. The first stretch after the border would mainly consist of paved road. Long straight roads on which traffic came in at high speed made us decide to make another small detour and explore the Danish gravel. The first stretch of gravel was of otherworldly beauty. What a path…. As if there wasn’t any hygge here. The gravel in Denmark is generally rougher and less refined than what we have seen in Germany, but it’s a delightful sensation to cycle on it. Sometimes the layer of coarse gravel is so thick that it almost feels like sandpaper.
The landscape in Denmark is vast and increasingly has a wavy pattern. We are driving on a plateau, so a steep descent at the end was a treat that we wanted to get started on quickly. With just another 5 kilometers to go, our final destination of the day is in sight: Aabenraa. Just need to keep our legs still for a little while until we reach the coast below. Once we get down to Aabenraa, we can smell and taste the salty sea air. Eat and recover for the days that are yet to come!
Stay in Aabenraa
We are staying at the Europa Hotel in Aabenraa. A luxury hotel that is set up for cyclists. The bikes can be stored outside in a large shipping container, and there is a tool station next to the hotel with all sorts of small tools and a bike pump. Convenient for Robbert to adjust the shoe plates again, because the Achilles tendons remained thick and painful.
After showering and recording the daily podcast, we are greeted in the lobby by Gerda. She has lived in Denmark for many years and works at the tourism office of Sonderjylland. That is the city of Abenraa and also the starting point of the Tour de France. Gerda gives information about the city, the region and the cycling opportunities in this area. Based on our own experience and the stories of Gerda: a must-see for a cycling tour with friends or the family. Together with Gerda, we also make a wonderful city walk through Aabenraa, although it is kind of a “Plato and Achilles on a journey”. Maarten doesn’t walk very well in his cheap-ass shoes, not to mention Robbert’s Achilles tendons. After a delicious meal, with the same special beer, in the Irish pub under the hotel, day 4 comes to an end.
Dag 5: Aabenraa – Vejle (112 kilometer)
“Onward to the Tour city”
After a more than excellent night at the Europa hotel and a breakfast that made your mouth water, it’s time to get back on the bike. The stage from Aabenraa to Vejle is on the program. Since Aabenraa is located in a fjord, we had to climb up immediately to leave the city. Ideal for getting warm, but less pleasant when Robbert’s Achilles tendons immediately start to hurt again. This is going to be a long day on the saddle in that respect.
Speaking of the weather… how lucky we are again with the weather! A clear blue sky and a pleasant temperature. We did ask ourselves a few times along the way how we would experience the trip if it were to rain a lot. Fortunately that wasn’t the case. Thank you, the weather gods!
Shorten route
The route we initially planned was slightly adjusted by Maarten in our favor in the morning at 06:00: fewer kilometers, but that also meant a little less gravel. However, the sections we did manage to cover are stunningly beautiful. If there is a gravel heaven, then Denmark is at least the gateway to it: coarse gravel, vast views and rolling hills. Wow! The sections of tarmac are not bad either. The asphalt in Denmark is of excellent quality. We understand that the organization of the Tour de France dares to do this here. running for three days.In Vejen (not to be confused with our day destination Vejle), we decided to stop for a coffee and something to eat.
Out together, home together
It is even being suggested that we cycle separately, since Robbert is still suffering from his Achilles tendons. However, the motto ‘together out, together home’ proved to be sacred. We will complete this stage together! After all, there are still 40km to Vejle, the final destination today. The first stretch after the coffee break saw the wind completely take over again. The kilometers flew by naturally (okay, almost). The confidence even took over. We even decided to make a small detour over a beautiful gravel path that we couldn’t pass up. Vejle is now in sight. This place is also located in a fjord, which means that the last 3/4 kilometers before the city center go downhill non-stop. After 113 kilometers, we head towards the Cabinn hotel with a satisfied feeling. Tomorrow is already the last day!
Day 6: Vejle – Aars (146 kilometers)
“The final day”
We left the center of Vejle, which was already preparing for the arrival of the Tour de France and the associated circus. Cycling through a city was by now quite familiar to us. Stoplight here, stoplight there, just quickly cross over and watch out there. Maneuvering in traffic and in a Danish city was by now second nature to us.
Vejle is located in a fjord, so one thing is for sure: climbing will not be easy for a while. The climb that led us out of the fjord was short but powerful. A treacherous climb along steep walls where you want to see a crazy crowd of cycling supporters as the Tour de France passes, put the calves to the test.
For the rest of the day we get the wind from the front and because we are driving on the plateau we have to regularly adjust our speed. Wind force 3 is manageable, but after so many days a breeze in the back is nice to have. Unfortunately that doesn’t last for the first 120km.
The route leads us along busy roads (motorways) where you were apparently allowed to cycle and over wonderfully paved bike paths. From Vejle we drove to Silkeborg where we looted the bread section of the local supermarket. Then we drive through the rolling landscape between the forests to Kjellerup and Viborg with again a short stop at a gas station.
Once we left Viborg, the real fun began. The Himmerland lay before us. Beautiful gravel paths through equally beautiful nature. Forests, water, reeds—what more could you ask for? The Himmerland is a place we will definitely return to. The gravel path we encountered there was a whopping twenty-two kilometers long! It made us forget the headwinds, but also the hunger. After a red bounty, the final 15 kilometers were driven slowly, and suddenly, atop a hill, we saw Aars lying ahead of us.
Ultimo Chilometro
Only 2 kilometers to go until the town sign “Aars”, where we of course have to stop for a proof photo. What a crazy idea: Six days earlier we started our trip with enthusiasm and suddenly that ended all of a sudden. We are at our final destination.
The first thing we do after arriving at the hotel (probably also the only thing in Aars) is order a beer at the bar. On the advice of the receptionist/barman/waiter, we choose a special beer from a local brewery. Later on, it turned out that this also cost ten euros converted, but that didn’t matter to us at the time. This is an adventure that we will never forget.
Day 7: #Train life
Støvring – Nijverdal
It was a bit of a switch: For six days, you mostly cycle through nature and in pairs, only having a few moments to eat in a restaurant in the evening. A long day on packed trains was still a bit of a shock. From Støvring to Aarhus, our return journey to home was still going exactly according to schedule. From that moment on, we would constantly be chasing down the facts. In Aarhus, we were already on the train when we had to get off again. However, that same train was diverted and we could still get on and stay until Hamburg. The train is getting fuller and fuller. The older lady, originally from Ukraine and with everything she still had (three bags and a bird in a cage), stands in stark contrast to the two Tukkers and their carbon-powered luxury steeds who had fled their home for their own pleasure for six days… Not to dwell on it too long, but the image has stayed with us.
Delays
We also have some delays at the border with Germany: The German border police will check the train and check every passenger. We will also have to wear a face mask from that moment on until we enter Dutch territory.
The train from Hamburg to Munster was delayed by twenty minutes, but it ensured that we would miss our connection. This immediately led to the idea that Enschede would be our final destination. We would never make it to Nijverdal by train. Fortunately, Maarten’s brother was willing to pick us up in Enschede and drive us back home… After a day of train travel lasting over 14 hours, we are back home at one o’clock in the morning. A day of train travel feels heavier than 150 kilometers of headwinds.
Onvergetelijk!
Our trip from Rectum to Aars falls into the category of: An unforgettable experience and a beautiful story for birthdays. Germany was beautiful with the long gravel roads through forests with countless hunting lodges. The characteristic landscape full of windmills and the characteristic villages. Crossing Bremen and Hamburg was also a wonderful experience.
Denmark has truly surprised us. A beautiful country with a very diverse landscape. Rolling, yellow rapeseed fields, beautiful places and just well-maintained roads. The roads are perfect and the traffic is, apart from the major highways, wonderfully smooth. And then there’s that gravel… If there is a gravel paradise, then Denmark almost has to be the gateway to it. During our trip we could have taken in so many more gravel sections, but then we would have had to shorten the day distances. If you’re looking for a destination to cycle to in the future – whether it’s for cycling or gravel – then Denmark is an absolute option! Along the way we fully understood why the organization of the Tour de France chose this country to host the Le Grand Départ.
Highlights
Without a doubt, that's the tip from Bas Overbeek of Detour studio: Try to make at least one small detour every day, because that's when you'll see the most beautiful things. And Bas was right in that regard. Sometimes we would see a beautiful gravel path on the left or right and we would look at each other and decide to take the risk. Maarten's Wahoo or Robbert's Hammerhead then guided us to the planned route without any problems.
Living the dream. Eat, sleep, bike, repeat.
For the Pedaleurs, the trip was also the first time they would be traveling together for several days. It’s certainly a bit different than recording a podcast every two weeks and chatting and calling each other. Together we embarked on this adventure. Literally living the dream: Eat, sleep, bike, repeat. All you have to do is just ride from A to B and enjoy the journey. As simple as it sounds, the mental aspect plays a role during such a trip, and the six days on the road were indeed a rollercoaster. As soon as one of them was over it, the other one was there with a little pep talk. The loss of family also played an increasingly larger role as the days progressed.
Intensively getting to know each other also means getting to know each other better and discovering differences. Maarten turned out to be the man of the moment, the man with a goal. And that goal has to be achieved. Robbert, on the other hand, doesn’t get into the stress as easily: What difference does those extra five minutes make if you don’t have to do anything else? Take that peace, look around you, enjoy. It led to a wonderful conversation in a restaurant in Vejle about transactional analysis, the way we were raised and brought up, what it meant for us, fatherhood and our own perspective on life. Not the kind of material you might expect on a bike tour, but incredibly valuable!
2/2/800/6/1
Two bikers, two grilzies, eight hundred kilometers, six days of cycling, one day of train life and a backpack full of stories that we share in the podcast. We enjoyed it! It has increased our Wanderlust and strengthened the Hygge. One thing is certain: We will definitely come cycling in Denmark again! (Or we will cycle to Denmark again, that’s a second thing).
Mojn!
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