Wanderlust. A typical German word from our eastern neighbours that is difficult to translate into Dutch in a single word. Wanderlust is the desire to travel. To go elsewhere. Is that what drove the men from the Pedaleurs (Maarten and Robbert) to undertake a bikepacking trip from Rectum in Overijssel to Aars in northern Denmark? Or is it that quest for 'Hygge' after all. Another one of those words, this time from Danish, which does not appear as a word in Dutch. Hygge stands for everything pleasant, nice and good. Let such a multi-day cycling trip be exactly that. Or was it secretly a mid-life thingy after all? Two forty-somethings who still want to prove something. Cycling to Denmark, captured in a brilliant story. Enjoy!
Pubertal joke
Rectum - Aars is above all an adolescent joke turned bikepacking trip from the mind of a geography teacher. One of those jokes you have to make. At Pedaleurs, we don't just talk about making cool cycling adventures. We want to experience what it's like to be in the saddle for six long days at a time. It's just great not having to do anything but cycle, eat and sleep. Eat, sleep, bike, repeat. That's all it is.
CreditCardPacking
However, the term bikepacking trip is still a dingy one. Diehard bikepackers sniffed smugly that our plan should actually be titled 'credit card packing': After all, when cycling from hotel to hotel, you only need your credit card. Hardcore endurance cyclists chuckled at the distance alone: 800 kilometres in six days. Sissies. A little randonneur doesn't even get out of bed for that. Anyway: for us it was and is bikepacking. Living the dream to the max! Cycling for whole days, crossing countries, crossing borders, having great cycling adventures and talking about them over a podcast in the evening. Exactly what Pedaleurs is all about.
It's all about the preparation
It has to be said: the preparation and equipment could not be faulted. Not even should it be: new bags, clothes and shoes, twice a #fietsvandeshow, plus an elaborate route. Even the biggest sceptic would argue adamantly that it shouldn't go wrong. A date was also quickly set: 29 April departure from Rectum and arrival in Aars on 3 May. And here the doubt strikes slightly... Then one 200-kilometre ride has to be ridden, along with four 150-kilometre rides. Aren't we overestimating ourselves now? The response via socials about our plans does not bring the desired confidence either. The diehard bikepackers find our plans "daring", "brave" or even "quite a challenge". The radonneurs continue to chuckle.
Extra day off?
After mutual consultation, we, the Tukkers, decide to add a day. Of course, also after careful consideration with the home front. Leaving a day earlier means another day away from home.
The more the day of departure approaches, the more intense the contacts become. Innumerable phone calls, phone calls and photos of preparation moments. The bikes are being prepared, tyres made tubeless, bags mounted as a test and even packed. The latter is a bit of a thing anyway: collecting equipment and stuffing it into bags. Packing bags, unpacking, packing again, swearing, unpacking again and that several times. Constantly scrutinising everything; do we need this and how can we pack everything so efficiently that cycling remains enjoyable. That your bike, including saddlebag, does not feel like a glorified 'convoi exceptionel'.
A day before departure, two pairs of very fine DMT gravel shoes are also purchased. All that remains is to mount the cleats correctly. This turns out to be a little tricky. Once all this is done, it only means one thing: the material can't be faulty... From now on, the legs will have to speak.
Wanderlust
Day 1: Rectum - Cloppenburg! (151 kilometres)
"The head is off!"
On 28 April, we set off from Hellendoorn and Nijverdal before driving to our official starting point Rectum. Fortunately, during our first day we are kept partly out of the wind by 'glamping' Jeroen Gerrits and Joey van Rhee. Even before the official departure from Rectum, Robbert has to adjust his cleats slightly. And that's just the beginning. In Nordhorn, Jeroen turns off towards home and Robbert tightens his cleats for the first time yet again. Will this be the last time?
First Gravel
Soon we encounter the first gravel lanes like you find a lot in Germany: semi-open landscape with gravel lanes between ploughed fields and meadows. Along the forest edges there is a high seat for hunters every 100 metres.
In Lingen, we said goodbye to Joey. From now on, we are on our own. On a boring cycle path along a busy road, we suddenly see a beautiful gravel strip to our right.
With the tip from Bas Overbeek of Detour-studio in mind ("you'll find the most beautiful parts during a detour"), we decide to take our chances straight away: Deviate from the route and take a small detour. The stretch through the forest is really beautiful, while we are never more than 2 kilometres from the main road as the crow flies. The landscape during the rest of the route is open and has plenty of gravel lanes to lick your fingers at. While we are enjoying the route we 'just drive' into the centre of Cloppenburg.
After showering, we strolled for a while through the centre of Cloppenburg. After only five minutes of walking, Maarten gave up on his hip-looking boat shoes. They were cheap and, thanks to an elastic band, they didn't take up much space on the road. But that was all. They did not walk at all. In a sports shop in the city centre, Maarten disappeared from sight for a while. He found a massage chair and tested it thoroughly. Still some kind of happy ending at the end of the day.
Day 2: Cloppenburg - Buxteheide (156 km)
"Across Bremen"
After an excellent breakfast, we left Parkhotel Cloppenburg again full of Wanderlust. We were looking forward to it, even though it would be a long day in the saddle. We immediately started with some beautiful gravel lanes towards Bremen: forest edges, lots of hunters' huts and lovely gravel paths. After 75km, we rode into Bremen via a nice gravel lane. That is quite the advantage of Komoot: thanks to the highlights in the programme, the most beautiful gems can be found with some detective work. Even in the middle of a big city. Bremen really does have a beautiful old town centre. Time for coffee and lunch on the main square overlooking the Dom and the Rathaus.
Podcast studio Bremen
On the terrace, we record the first podcast of the day.
Perfectly satiated, we get back on our bicycles to leave Bremen via a fantastic bicycle street. Soon we find ourselves on the commuter cycle path towards Lilienthal. The rest of the route towards Buxtehude consists mainly of cycle paths and traffic-free roads, although just before the final destination we are treated to some nice gravel strips. After 158 kilometres, day 2 is also over. Time to check in, record a podcast and take a shower. Then it's time for the daily Facetime moments with the home front.
Day 3: Buxtehude - Rendsburg (133 km)
"Twice through a tunnel!"
After a hearty breakfast, we brave the wind from the north. After only a hundred metres from the hotel, Hamburg's urban area begins. The first thirty kilometres are non-stop urbanised area. Until 'the real' Hamburg, it is a lot of riding on pavements with traffic lights pushing the pace. Sometimes in Germany, the cycle path is on the left of the road, sometimes on the right of the road, and most of the time the condition of that cycle path is also of deplorable quality. It's as if the road construction company has lumped the leftover asphalt together to make some sort of cycle path. Especially for Robbert's Achilles tendons, not the most pleasant part: stopping at a traffic light, getting on, riding off and stopping again. Painful.
Next bump
Once at the embankment along the Elbe, the industrial area/port is the next challenge. Due to works on the railway, one of the bridges is closed, but with a bit of luck we can cross the bridge to find the St Pauli - Elbe cycle tunnel. What a special experience to cycle through the tunnel. First down by lift, and then riding through a fantastic tunnel.
Beyond Hamburg
After passing Hamburg, we reach rural northern Germany, where the many potato fields and wooded areas alternate at high speed. Every now and then we pick up a nice strip of gravel and notice that the landscape is really changing: it becomes much more hilly and wooded. Almost all Scandinavian.
You are geography teacher or not
Martin's geography heart is also working overtime this day: "Look there... a penguin ruin. I've never seen those in real life. How cool!" And: "Did you know that those stones lying here in the meadows came all the way from Scandinavia with the land ice?"
Meanwhile, the wind kept pounding at us briskly (or was that a feeling?), but that didn't spoil the fun. Feeling satisfied, we finally reached Rendsburg, where we were treated to a pedestrian tunnel under the water for the second time that day. Our hotel is just outside the city centre in a somewhat run-down area. At least... hotel? From the outside, it looks more like closed retirement home for the elderly. Anyway; Don't judge a book by its cover: The reception is fine and the room is okay. We do store our bikes in the room just to be sure. Tomorrow finish in Denmark! Hygge!
Day 4: Rendsburg - Aabenraa (105 kilometres)
"Crossing the border"
After leaving Rendsburg, we climbed immediately and drove through forested areas where we felt for a moment alone in the world. Along every forest, meadow or field, hunting huts stood deserted. All waiting for that one hunter to take up temporary residence to target a goose, roe, hare or other animal from a sheltered and elevated position. At the same time, we too unconsciously looked down a barrel, but allowed the old meat to continue on the gravel or forest path.
It is Sunday 1 May. Labour Day. And we notice this as we approach Flensburg. The forests are getting busier with walkers and by the water's edge young people are barbecuing. Although we set off well-stocked after our stop with coffee and carrot cake, the barbecue smells very good. For some time, we ride on a gravel path along the water before heading higher up again, but mainly to our neighbours across the border. After 7km, we are finally in the promised land! Cycling to Denmark, who invents t.
Wilkommen et Danmark!
In Denmark, we got even more wind in front of the wheels and in the face. The first bit after the border would consist mainly of paved road. Long straight roads on which traffic trailed at high speed made us decide to make another small detour and explore the Danish gravel. The first stretch of gravel was of otherworldly beauty. What a path.... If there was no hygge to be found here. The gravel in Denmark tends to be coarser and less refined than that we have seen in Germany, but it is delightfully crunchy cycling. Sometimes the layer of coarse gravel is so thick that it feels almost mullet.
The landscape in Denmark is wide and has more and more of an undulating pattern. We are riding on a plateau, so a steep descent at the end was a dessert we wanted to start quickly. With just under five kilometres to go, our final destination for the day was in sight: Aabenraa. Just a little more leg-stopping until down the coast. Once down to Aabenraa, we smell and taste the salty sea air. Eat and recover for the days ahead!
Stay in Aabenraa
We stay at the Europa Hotel in Aabenraa. A luxury hotel set up for cyclists. The bicycles can be stored outside in a large sea container and next to the hotel there is a tool station with all kinds of small tools and a bicycle pump. Useful for Robbert to adjust the cleats again, as the Achilles tendons remained swollen and painful.
After showering and recording the daily podcast, we are welcomed in the lobby by Gerda. She has lived in Denmark for many years and works at the Sonderjylland tourism office. That's where the town of Abenraa and also the Tour de France's arrival point is located. Gerda provides information about the town, the region and the cycling possibilities in this area. Based on our own experience and Gerda's stories: highly recommended for a cycling trip with friends or the family. Together with Gerda, we also do a splendid city walk through Aabenraa, although it is a kind of "Platvoet and Achilles on the move". Maarten doesn't walk too well on his cheap-ass shoes, not to mention Robbert's Achilles tendons. After a delicious meal, with ditto special beer, in the Irish pub below the hotel, Day 4 comes to an end.
Day 5: Aabenraa - Vejle (112 kilometres)
"On to the Tour city"
After a more than fine night in the Europa hotel and a finger-licking breakfast, it is high time to get back on the bike. The Aabenraa - Vejle stage was on the programme. As Aabenraa is located in a fjord, we had to climb right away to leave the city. Ideal to get warm, but less nice when Robbert's Achilles tendons immediately play up again. This will be another long day in the saddle as far as that is concerned.
Talking about warm by the way... how lucky we are once again with the weather! A clear blue sky and a pleasant temperature. We did wonder a few times on the way how we would experience the trip if there was a lot of rain. Fortunately, that was not the case. Thank you weather gods!
Shorten route
The route we had initially planned had already been adjusted slightly in our favour by Maarten at 06:00 in the morning: fewer kilometres, but therefore slightly less gravel. However, the stretches we did pick up were stunningly beautiful. If there is a gravel heaven, Denmark is at least the gateway: rough gravel, wide views and rolling all the way. Wow! However, the stretches of paved are not bad either. The asphalt in Denmark is of fine quality. We understand that the organisers of the Tour de France dare to use it here three days to race. In Vejen (not to be confused with our day destination Vejle), we decided to make a coffee stop and eat something.
Out together, home together
There was a brief suggestion to continue cycling separately, as Robbert's Achilles tendons were hurting quite badly. However, the credo 'out together, home together' proved sacrosanct. We will also complete this stage together! After all, it is still 40km to Vejle, today's final destination. The first part after the coffee break we also have the wind completely in our favour. The kilometres flew by automatically (OK, almost automatically). In fact, it goes so well that our self-confidence takes over. We even decide to make a small detour over a too nice gravel strip that we cannot pass up. Vejle is now in sight. This town is also located in a fjord, making the last 3/4 kilometres before the centre non-stop downhill. After 113 kilometres, we roll towards the Cabinn hotel feeling satisfied. Tomorrow is already the last day!
Day 6: Vejle - Aars (146 kilometres)
"The final day"
We set off from the centre of Vejle, which was already preparing for the arrival of Tour de France and its associated circus. Cycling through a city was fairly familiar to us by now. Stoplight here, stoplight there, quick crossing and paying attention there. Manoeuvring in traffic and in a Danish city was now second nature to us.
Vejle is located in a fjord, so then you know one thing for sure; there is going to be climbing in not too long. The climb that led us out of the fjord was short, but powerful. A vicious climb along steep walls on which you want to see a crazy crowd of cycling supporters as the Tour de France passes, put the calves right on tension.
The rest of the day we get the wind from the front, and because we are riding on the plateau, we regularly have to suffer. Wind force 3 is doable, but after so many days a tailwind is nice too. Unfortunately, this does not happen for the first 120 km.
The route led us along busy roads (national roads) where you were apparently allowed to cycle and on great tarmac cycle paths. From Vejle, we rode to Silkeborg where we raided the bread section of the local supermarket. We then rode through rolling countryside between forests to Kjellerup and Viborg with another short stop at a petrol station.
Once out of Viborg, the great enjoyment began. Himmerland lay ahead of us. Beautiful gravel paths through equally beautiful nature. Forests, water, reeds, what wasn't there. The Himmerland is a place we will definitely return to. The gravel stretch we found there was a whopping twenty-two kilometres long! It made us forget the headwind, but also to eat. After a red bounty, the last 15 kilometres were ridden quietly and suddenly, on top of a small hill, we suddenly saw Aars ahead of us.
Ultimo Chilometro
Only 2 more kilometres to roll out to the town sign "Aars", where of course we had to stop for a proof photo. What a crazy idea: Six days before, we started our trip full of enthusiasm and suddenly it came to an end. We are at our final destination.
The first thing we do, after arriving at the hotel (probably also the only one in Aars) is order a beer at the bar. On the advice of the receptionist/bartender/waiter, we choose a special beer from a local brewery. Afterwards, it also turned out to cost ten euros in conversion, but we don't care at that moment. This is an adventure never to be forgotten.
Day 7: #rain life
Støvring - Nijverdal
It was a bit of a switch: Six days cycling mainly through nature and in pairs with only a short evening meal in a restaurant. A long day on packed trains took some getting used to. From Støvring to Aarhus, our journey back home was still exactly on schedule. From then on, we would be constantly behind schedule. In Århus, we were already on the train when we had to get off again. On the spot, however, the same train is diverted and we can board anyway and stay seated until Hamburg. The train gets fuller and fuller. The elderly lady, from Ukraine and with everything she had left (three bags and a bird in a small cage), stands in stark contrast to two people from the Czech Republic and their carbon luxury horses who had fled their homes for six days for pleasure... Don't dwell on it too long, but the image has stayed with us.
Delay
We also have some delay at the border with Germany: the German border police enter the train and check every passenger. We will also have to wear a mouth mask again from then on until we enter Dutch territory.
The train from Hamburg to Munster was delayed by 20 minutes, but made sure we would miss our connection. This immediately resulted in Enschede being our final destination. We would never catch the train to Nijverdal. Fortunately, Maarten's little brother was willing to pick us up in Enschede and drive us back home... After more than 14 hours of train life, we were back home at one o'clock in the morning. A day of train life feels heavier than 150 kilometres of headwind.
Unforgettable!
Our trip from Rectum to Aars falls into the category: An unforgettable experience and a great story on birthdays. Germany was beautiful with the long gravel lanes through forests with countless hunting huts. The distinctive landscape full of windmills and distinctive villages. Crossing Bremen and Hamburg were also wonderful experiences.
Denmark really surprised us. A beautiful country with a very varied landscape. Rolling, yellow rapeseed fields, beautiful places and just well maintained. The roads are perfect and the traffic, apart from the big main roads, is wonderfully traffic-free. And then that gravel... If there is a gravel heaven then Denmark must almost be the gateway. We could have taken in so many more gravel lanes during our trip, but then we would have had to shorten the daily distances. If you are looking for a future destination for cycling - and whether this is cycling or gravelling - then Denmark is an absolute option! Along the way, we understood very well why the Tour de France organisers chose this country to host Le Grand Départ.
Highlights
Without a doubt, this is the tip from Bas Overbeek of Detour studio: try to make a small detour at least daily, because that's when you see the most beautiful things. And how right Bas was in that respect. Sometimes we saw a beautiful strip of gravel to the left or right and then we looked at each other and decided to take our chances. Maarten's Wahoo or Robbert's Hammerhead then showed the way back to the planned route without any problems.
Living the dream. Eat, sleep, bike, repeat.
For Mr Pedaleurs, the trip was also the first time they would be spending several days together. It's quite a bit different from recording a podcast every two weeks and doing a bit of appending and calling among themselves. Together we embarked on the adventure. Literally living the dream: eat, sleep, bike, repeat. Having to do nothing but just cycle from A to B and enjoy things along the way. As simple as it sounds, the mental aspect does play a role during such a trip and the six days on the road were a rollercoaster. The moment one of us was going through it, the other was there with a little pep talk. Missing the family also played more and more of a role as the days progressed.
Hanging out together intensively also means getting to know each other better and differences surface. Martin turned out to be the man of the hour, the man with a goal. And that goal has to be achieved. Robbert, on the other hand, is not so quick to stress: what difference do those five extra minutes make if you don't have to do anything else? Take that rest, look around, enjoy. At a restaurant in Vejle, we had a wonderful conversation about transactional analysis, the way we grew up, what it meant to us, fatherhood and our outlook on life. Not the kind of material you might expect on a cycling trip, but incredibly valuable!
2/2/800/6/1
Two tukkers, two grizls, eight hundred kilometres, six days of cycling, one day of train life and a backpack full of stories that we share in the podcast. We enjoyed it! It increased our Wanderlust and reinforced the Hygge. One thing is certain: We will definitely come again to cycle in Denmark! (Whether we will cycle to Denmark again, that's another one).
Mojn!
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