The jolly man in the blue shirt starts talking to me unintelligibly. Dressed like that in cycling clothes, I do not immediately recognise him as señor Landa. Right, Mikel Landa's grandfather (!) got ready for a bike ride this morning. From his enthusiastic story, I can just decipher that he says: 'I don't feel quite like I always do, after last night's wine'. That does not bode well. Today's stage travels through the wide country from Valtierra towards the Rioja region. 110 kilometres long with a brisk crosswind. Grandpa Landa's stocky stature will have considerable trouble with that. This is diary Basque Country part 5. You can find the other parts here (part 1, part 2, part 3 and part 4).
Text: Sander Kolsloot, photos: Ruben Hoogland // Sander Kolsloot
Ciderman
This morning the eyes are a bit smaller than usual. Whether that had anything to do with the night before, we can only guess. One thing is certain: Haimar showed his best side as 'Sidraman' yesterday. The nickname of locals from his region is also 'sidreros'. There are complete competitions in which (mostly men) compete against each other for the title of 'Sidrero of the Year'. I liked how Haimar enjoyed his role. In addition, he is also very involved in today's planning. It will be a fan stage, so the instructions are clear: ride in a row, alternate leading turns and enjoy. Whether the latter is also in my dictionary.
Gusty winds
Not a word was lied about the wind. We pull out of Valtierra and it feels like we are in a wind tunnel. The agreement is to ride in the lead for about ten minutes and then switch off. This is necessary too, as the wind force is at least 5 Beaufort. I settle into the group and allow myself to be sucked along by our peloton for the first hour. Meanwhile, the landscape is similar to the beautiful canyons you encounter in Arizona or New Mexico. You can also encounter this colour palette of 50 shades of red in other southern European countries. Gorgeous to look at, with the clunky white windmills the only dissonant.
Coffee and wine
On the terrace of La Galera in the village of Mendavia, wine is already flowing profusely. It is around 11 o'clock on an ordinary Thursday morning. The men who have poured themselves a glass do not seem intent on leaving it at one. A few of them sample the group of yellow/green-clad cyclists. One of the men shouts some unintelligible texts. Another seems busy reading the newspaper from front to back. Literally in his case. The contrast is actually beautiful. The coming together of the group of sports enthusiasts making a coffee stop, with the locals here having a glass of rioja with a pintxo and living life that way. This is why you want to go to this region, for these simple, beautiful things. The coffee seems to taste even better because of this.
La Rioja
There are a number of regions in the world that are undeniably associated with wine. Indeed, those that evoke a direct association with wine in terms of name. Champagne, Burgundy, Bordeaux to name a few. La Rioja in northern Spain is another such region. The land is traversed by the river Ebro and as you get closer you see the so familiar 'rolling hills', on which vines thrive so well. 'Bodegas' and wineries pop up left and right. The beautiful town of Laguardia appears before us, from where there are great views over the wide surroundings. I feel like parking the bike right away and indulging in the local grape drink. I have to wait a little longer.
Gruppetto Patxi - GrupPatxi
As the road climbs ever so slightly steeper, I have to let go of my predecessor's wheel. Immediately, someone wants to give me a friendly intended push. From behind the group, a cheerful, "Grupo Tranquilo, por aqui!" sounds. That's Patxi Rodrigo. What a treat to have him there. A mood creator, who does have the serious task of taking the Etxeondo brand further into the world. Together with Flip, we form the Gruppetto. Unfortunately, Peio is not there this time, but GrupPatxi is also doing well. We ride up together and take a little more time to also enjoy the surroundings. Because it is beautiful.
Wine and more
The final kilometres can again be called Basque flat. It is on nice roads, where the space for cyclists is sometimes a bit small. A lorry driver practically honks us aside. In five days, this is the first motorist to behave like a jerk. We turn off the main road in Samaniega towards Eskuernaga a beautiful medieval town. There lies Bodega Luis Cañas, where a mix of hot bath water and beautiful wine awaits us.
