For Cycling Destination, Erwin and Erwin from the Mountain High Chasers along the most beautiful, classic climbs and routes in Europe (and who knows, beyond). Already, we got great content on the Mont Ventoux, the Angliru and the Galibier. Piece by piece beautiful and it just doesn't stop. Now again, the beautiful Col de la Bonette rightfully a Classic Ride, if you ask us.
Photos and text: Erwin and Erwin // mountain high chasers
Barcelonnette
A classic, quiet, French village where four old men are going over yesterday's day in the square in front of the church. A little further on, two ladies walk towards home with a baguette under their arms. Got the picture yet? Then remember now that when you look up, you will always see an alpine giant, whether you look north, west, east or south! A true paradise for climbers (and descenders), Barcelonnette is well worth the long drive. Just under 1,200 kilometres from Utrecht, this piece of paradise is where you can climb a true classic, the Col de la Bonette.
It is always dangerous to talk about the highest, the longest or the most difficult climb. They themselves (the signs around the climb) think they are the highest in Europe, factually this is incorrect. However, they did do everything they could to reach a (literally) breathtaking height of 2802m.
Enjoying the rolling valley
We got on our bikes in the morning from our house in Barcelonnette. The advantage is that you can warm up well in the rolling valley between the alpine giants. Unfortunately, you do have to use the main road (D900) towards Jausiers a lot. But if you ride nicely wheel-to-wheel, motorists will be forgiving and respect the fact that you are cycling towards the Bonette.
As you drive towards the foot of the Bonette, it might be a good idea to check out the statistics. As mentioned, the summit is at a whopping 2802m altitude. It wasn't, but on the main road towards Saint-Étienne de Tinée they have built a tourist ring road around the Cime de la Bonette to reach 2802m. From Jausiers, you're 23.4 kilometres on the road with an average of 6.76%. You could say it's doable, but make no mistake about the length and especially the altitude. Anything above 2,500m you can notice breathing well.
Ready for take-off...off
We drive through Jausiers and watch the road slowly rise. Soon we find our own pace and wish each other luck. For us, more depends on today than just putting in a great performance. The Col de la Bonette is 'one out of the book', in other words, we are not allowed to stop along the way to put a sticker in the Mountain High book.
The road winds sweetly from left to right with the occasional house on the side of the road. However, this changes completely as you climb a few kilometres higher. Rock outcrops and forests show up on all sides and you get to ride through this as a spectator on a nicely constructed tarmac road. We had the luxury of a support car today, so this allowed us to enjoy ourselves extra without worrying about an empty water bottle or running out of gels. If you don't have that luxury, make sure you have enough food, drink and warm clothing. At almost 3000m, it can be very cold even in summer!
A turtleneck as it should be
Meanwhile, the trees disappear and give way to vast fields and a mountain lake. What is striking about this col is that the higher you get, the better the road seems to get. As a cyclist, it is truly enjoyable. Even when the gradients occasionally rise above 10%, there is plenty of distraction to be found. Originally, the col was built for military purposes. It was a through road for soldiers. Traces of this can still be seen through the remains of barracks just below the summit. In addition, you are treated to some nice hairpin turns before you get to see the 'Cime'. It has everything a col should have in it and maybe even more!
The unreal summit
When the summit comes into view, the road flattens slightly and you cover about 1.5 kilometres on a stretch of fell slab. The wind can play quite a role here, but the views are really fantastic! Funnily enough, you end up at a junction; as mentioned, it is a through road towards Saint-Étienne de Tinée. But to reach the top, you take the tourist loop towards the summit. After all the scenery, you really get to slow down now! At the barren summit, a stretch of 15% runs uphill where very likely many tourists will be standing to shout at you, and you need it! The air, the time you've already been climbing and perhaps the wind will make cycling almost impossible, but keep the adrenaline flowing, because the reward is great!
Whether it is the highest of the Alps, of Europe or just of the 'Alpes Maritimes', what does it matter. A true classic that you really must have done because of its beautiful scenery, good road surface and unique summit!
