Belgium can rightly call itself a true cycling country. This is not in the good facilities for cyclists when cycling through the city of Antwerp or Brussels, but mainly in the fact that the whole country is "on hold" when the spring classics to be run. Today I hope to get some of this atmosphere during Liège-Bastogne-Liège, at least part of it. We ride part of this classic to experience what the pros also experience in our own humble way.
Text & photos: Erwin & Erwin / Mountainhighchasers.com
A special meeting
Early in the morning we get into the car. We drive silently through the hilly countryside towards Liège. The rain beats hard against the window and the clouds only get darker. The closer we get to Liege the grumpier we get. The scenery doesn't help either. Where a moment ago we were driving through beautiful countryside, we now pass old industry and a dirty river. But fair is fair, we are going to cycle Liège-Bastogne-Liège today. So back straight and bikes out of the car. With familiar cycling talk and uplifting jokes, we get on our bikes towards the start, smiling. We have already been rained on wet, admittedly, but we are looking forward to it.
Enthusiastic at the start
Arriving at the start we become even more enthusiastic than usual....and Erwin sees an old acquaintance. I have no idea and walk quietly behind him, only when he shakes the hand of an elderly gentleman and says hello to him with 'Good morning Mr Merckx' does my heart beat a little faster too. Perhaps the greatest rider of all time is standing here alone, with no press, no screaming fans, just enjoying the cycling enthusiasts around him. I can't see Mr Messi doing that any time soon.
After Mr Merckx has had his picture taken with us and the start numbers have been confirmed, we click into the pedals and ride through a soaking wet Liege. Every now and then we exchange a few words but the main thing is to find the right mode in this weather. Once wet is wet, so what's the point of dwelling on this.
Where industry turns into playground
To be honest, we do not immediately (apart from the rain) get excited by the surroundings, the route lingers a bit in and around the city where many traces of industry can still be seen. Early on, the first coal mines were built here and the landscape has not improved as a result.
The first 60 kilometres are mostly on long straight roads towards the rolling countryside. Eventually, everything changes and we can enjoy a real playground for cyclists. Tough short climbs and beautiful winding roads through the landscape of the Belgian Ardennes. It remains Belgium though so the road surface is not always as smooth.
The executioner
The climb we have been looking forward to is coming, La Redoute! The road begins to rise and the sign along the route reveals that this must be the La Redoute. Today we wanted to taste the atmosphere this country brings with it during the spring classic. So you hope for hundreds of people along the side, a running devil and flags stuck to your handlebars just before you turn the corner. Alas, nothing of the sort. The weather must have played a part in this. Nevertheless, we still feel a bit pro. The La Redoute is often a place where this classic is broken up, the public knows this and therefore wants to be on the front row. The result, rows of campers along the climb with flapping flags on the roof.
Road surface unrecognisable
Even the road surface is no longer recognisable because of all the cheers smeared on the tarmac. The Phillip Gilbert fan-club has made a day of it, Phil, Phil, Phil! Still, to give the campers, and drivers, something to do, we are on the pedals. By now it's rising towards 10% here. I hook into the wheel and together we ride past the first campers. Soon I notice that this pace is too fast and I let up. 100 kilometres in the rain doesn't come in the 'cold', so it's a case of stamping! Apart from Gilbert, I also see Mollema, Nibali, Van Aert and Evenepoel passing by. With a bit of imagination, I ride these men to a gap and dislodge other Erwin. I try to temporise and catch these guys later, you have to do something.
Higher, steeper, further
The gradients don't lie, slowly rising to 14% and little streams of water run down the road surface. It is too narrow and steep here for the motorhomes so I now ride up along the fences, occasionally overtaking fellow climbers. Halfway up, the tension is allowed to ease off the legs for a moment, from 14% it briefly becomes 7% but soon the counter drops back to 14%. A feint of this climb, it doesn't make it any easier.
Rintje, you here?
As I wrestle myself to the top, I am startled by a rider coming alongside at breakneck speed. For a moment I thought I recognised the bear from Lemmer, a tall blond gentleman wearing an Aegon suit from the 1990s. It must not have been him but he goes uphill at an impressive pace, especially when you compare it to the cyclists who have to complete this climb on foot. As I watch the wheel of the bear from Lemmer quickly disappear from sight, the arch appears on the horizon. The arch that marks the end of this climb, with one last effort I roll under the arch where Erwin R. is waiting for me.
Descend
Without saying anything, our fists touch in a friendly way and we descend the Redoute on the other side. Once we catch our breath, we discuss the climb and come to the conclusion that it is a pretty tough one. One that looks very friendly from the side but can be quite surprising in real life. Why didn't I ask Eddy Merckx himself this, if anyone didn't get surprised on the Redoute, it was him. But anyway, tonight with the book on my lap on the sofa with my feet on the table.
History at its best
Fair is fair, it is not the most beautiful area to cycle in. When we would draw our own route through the Ardennes, we would leave the 'cities' far to the side and stay in the impressive nature of what the Ardennes does have to offer. So why ride this route anyway? It's history, stories are written and heroes made (or broken)! LBL or also called 'La Doyenne' (the old lady) is one of the five cycling monuments and that alone is reason enough to ride this route once. Together with your cycling friends/friends, experience what it is like to be able to cycle as a pro through 'the cycling country' par excellence. It is the stories that make the experience beautiful and the experience richer. Therefore, as far as we are concerned, definitely a 'must do'!
