If you like cycling in France, then cycling around Lake Annecy is one of the best opportunities to cover foreign kilometres. Robbert Flim takes you along the most beautiful places around this lake. A lake that really captures the imagination. Who knows, maybe you will go to Lake Annecy for cycling this summer?
Text: Robbert Flim, photos: Adobe Stock and Robbert Flim
Lake Annecy
There are not many places outside the Netherlands where I have cycled as much as around Lake Annecy. 'Coming home' does sound very sentimental, but in any case it is an area I really enjoy visiting. For me, this area is the ideal place for cycling and has everything you could wish for in terms of cycling: flat, hills, mountains, climbs, valleys, beautiful views, roads where you won't meet anyone and a few well-known passes. And even if you don't feel like cycling, there are plenty of opportunities to enjoy yourself on and around the lake: Visiting Annecy's old town, strolling along the lakeside promenade, renting a boat, paragliding, canyoning and hiking through the surrounding mountains are just a few suggestions.
Around the lake
The most famous, of course, is the lap around the lake. Personally, I always cycle the loop from Annecy in a counter-clockwise direction: starting in Annecy and along the main cycle path towards Doussard, then finishing back in Annecy via Talloires. On the western side of the lake, an old railway line has given way to a cycle path, a 'voie verte'. Previously only this side had this cycle path, nowadays it is extended almost all the way around the lake. The cycle path around the lake is fairly flat, but in summer it is incredibly busy with cyclists, walkers, runners, skaters and anything else that can move on two wheels. That means paying attention and always looking far ahead.
Better outside (summer)
Outside the summer months, however, you can have a great blast on this cycle path from Annecy. This is also the reason why I prefer to ride via the west side first, so that you have had the busy part first. In addition, this option gives me the opportunity halfway through the route, when the legs have warmed up, to turn left to climb the Col de La Forclaz.
A lap around the lake is well worthwhile. All in all, it is a 45-kilometre stretch with a short climb on the eastern side near the village of Talloires with a single hairpin bend and beautiful stretches directly along the water. If you wish, you can turn off at Menthon-Saint-Bernard towards Col de Bluffy. A three-kilometre climb along the 'chateau' before descending without braking (wonderfully fast!) to the main road towards Annecy. The more you approach the city, the busier it gets. However, it's great to ride leisurely along the cycle path into town with the lake on your left and meanwhile watch people, water sports and the lake surroundings. In the city centre, near the well-known pedestrian bridge, there is a large park where you can stop for a while.
If the road around the lake is too busy for you, just take a side road and in no time you are on quiet mountain roads with hardly any traffic. From the campsites on the western side, you can also make the climb to Col de Leschaux. Not too difficult a climb, but with nice curves between meadows, from village to village and a nice climb to prepare your legs for a col of name nearby.
Semnoz and Col de La Forclaz
On a cycling weekend in June, the Semnoz (aka the Crête de Chatillon) is part of our 'queen's ride'. A ride that starts on the cycle path to Annecy and where you turn left after the old hospital to take the road up to the summit of the Semnoz via two roundabouts. A climb that actually disappointed me badly. In total, it is about 13 kilometres to 'le sommet' and starts quite easily. However, from kilometre six onwards, the road keeps rising continuously at an average of around 8-9 per cent, with you constantly cycling through the forest. Until kilometre ten, it's nothing but trees, asphalt and a not very forgiving gradient. The last three kilometres to the summit you cycle between meadows and some rocks. Here, just below the summit, there is also a ski area. On top of the summit is a fine hotel/restaurant to take a break and where you have a great view of Lake Annecy.
Beautiful views
After the beautiful and fast descent, where you can reach high speeds on some very long straights, you arrive at Col de Lesschaux, from where you can make the descent to the cycle path around the lake. Via the flat cycle path and the bicycle tunnel at Duingt, you then emerge on the south side of the lake at Doussard. Here you do not follow the rounding of the lake, but cycle a little further straight ahead to ride towards Vesonne and Montmin at the roundabout. From then on, the focus is on the Col de la Forclaz. The summit of this mountain can be seen from all over Lake Annecy. It is also the place from where non-stop paragliders make their leap of faith during the day.
Logical route
The most common route up is to take the climb from Talloires. The climb from Montmin is slightly shorter in terms of distance, but a lot steeper on average. The first section passes between meadows. However, it is a climb where the constantly fluctuating gradient makes it difficult to get into your rhythm. After a forest, you see the village of Montmin above you. Fortunately, the summit is then in sight. After Montmin, the legs can relax for a while as the road slopes downhill here. This is only short-lived because, as so often, the last bits are the hardest. Fortunately, there is then soon the summit of the Forclaz. A summit like so many others: souvenir shops, restaurants and the possibility of outdoor sports. However, the view from the Forclaz is phenomenal: below you Lake Annecy and above you the paragliders jumping off the mountain in large numbers.
An additional advantage is that you can then descend longer and cycle via Annecy to grab a well-earned terrace there.
Col de Esserieux and Col du Marais
To get back into the swing of things, in Annecy I always make a lap along the lake down towards Faverges. Nice and flat to warm up the legs and enjoy the sunshine. In Faverges, I turn off in the direction of Saint Ferréol. What follows is a lovely climb that winds around a mountain and along a valley. From village to village and nowhere really tough climbing. At the 'col du Marais' sign, you can catch the col de Aravis. I then ride towards Thônes, where you can take a break. Immediately after Thônes there is the least beautiful part of the route, along the main road towards the Alex. It is busy with a narrow cycle lane. Fortunately, it goes down false flat. At the roundabout, you turn left towards col de Bluffy to eventually end up back in Annecy. This route is 70 kilometres with almost 1000 altitude metres.
Col de la Colombière and Col des Aravis
I don't know if Col de la Colombière is an undiscovered gem, but so for me this really is one of the most beautiful climbs I know. During my first ever stay in the Annecy area (I was not yet a real cycling fanatic), I drove up the col by car. Even then I was gripped by the beauty of climb. When cycling started to get more serious for me, the Colombière soon made it onto the bucket list.
Starting from St Jean de Sixt
We start from St Jean de Sixt. At the first roundabout there is an arrow to the left: Col de la Colombière. Around Annecy you have mostly mountains with forests and rock faces. Here you drive fairly quickly via Le Grand Bornand between meadows. You then have a phenomenal view of the valley combined with the hairpin bends, winding upwards through the grassland, on beautiful, car-free roads. The sound of cow bells in the distance makes you realise you are cycling in a foreign country. This side of the Colombière is as cycling in the mountains is meant to be:You make a big effort, but you can still enjoy yourself. Including the Ventoux and Galibier On my palmares, this climb is one that tops the list in terms of enjoyment! Not only is the climb a must, the descent is also worth a look: Fast, clear and with lovely tarmac.
Back in St Jean: choices
Back in St Jean de Sixt, I can do two things: Load the bike back on the car and go back to the campsite or follow another stretch of la Route des Grandes Alpes by taking the Col des Aravis for a while. Of course, I don't have to think long about this one. Similar in length and difficulty to the Colombière, only slightly less beautiful (in my opinion) in terms of views. However, the tarmac is fine and the gradient is also doable. From St Jean de Sixt you first cycle towards the winter sports village of La Clusaz, where you keep right and cycle under the cable car to the top of the Aravis. You get the biggest reward of the day when you arrive at the top of le sommet: A magnificent view of Mont Blanc. Magnificent.
Staying overnight around Lake Annecy
There is also plenty of choice in terms of accommodation options in this area. There is good camping in summer. Most campsites are on the western side of the lake, along the main road from Annecy to Albertville. La Ferme de la Serraz, among others, is a good place to cycle. On the site of EuroCampings you will find a more complete offer. You will also find plenty of other accommodation around the lake. These include the chic Abbaye de Talloires is a good option. This one is also labelled 'Acceuil Velo'. Another hotel option is Les Tresomes, where you can also enjoy the good 'spa facilities.
Cycling routes around Lake Annecy
https://www.eurocampings.nl/frankrijk/meer-van-annecy/More info on cycling in this region can also be found via the site of the tourism office of Savoie Mont Blanc.
