When the alarm clock rings at 07:15, I once again hear the birds singing. Peering through the hotel window, one thing catches my eye right away: there are clouds today. That can mean anything in the mountains. Usually it means a bit of protection from the sun. Often it means rain. Very occasionally with thunderstorms. A quick check in the local shower radar gives the decisive answer. No rain. Good. Then we are good to go. Because the programme is mouth-watering again. Cycling in Crans-Montana: Lac des Dix or also called Barrage de la Grand Dixence. A so-called dead-end that leads to the foot of the dam in 25 kilometres. With also the climb back to the village of Crans on the programme a hefty challenge. Read here, by the way, part 1 of our trip to Crans-Montana.
Going down
Ski village Crans-Montana is 1500 metres (or 1400 metres depending on who you ask) above sea level. One of the characteristics of staying in Crans-Montana is that you actually always go down first and only then back up again. From our basecamp in the centre, the Alaïa Lodge, it is in a straight line downhill. This is pretty important to remember: you almost always end up climbing. Unless you are completely wrecked. Then you can take the bus or the funicular. If it does. On the bus, you always have to make a reservation for your bike. Own risk. So our ride starts again with a descent. This time on some smaller roads through the vineyards. The percentages there are not too bad. 20% down a narrow lane. The thresholds at the end near Sion were not in Komoot.
Grand Dixence
Barrage de la Grand Dixence, near Lac des Dix is a very well-known dam and a somewhat lesser-known cycling climb. Constructed in 1929, it is an imposing sight. It is the largest or highest dam in the world after the one in Tajikistan. At 285 metres high and 700 metres long, it is incredible to think that this is a man-made structure. Especially considering the time it was built, it is an absolute masterpiece. It is the largest gravity dam in the world. I could devote another whole article to this dam and there was even a film made about the construction earlier. Pretty impressive all around. With that in mind, you are going to appreciate a construction like Grand Dixence even more.
Start quietly
When we completed the descent, we were met by Erwin & Erwin. They have done the descent by car. That also saves on the way up. We set off towards the start of the climb, from a suburb of Sion it goes up. Komoot once again leads us over a stretch of Swiss flat. The counter shoots above 20 per cent and at the top of this fine warm-up we are panting like post horses. Then we have yet to start, as José de Cauwer always says. The first kilometres to Vex are on the ordinary provincial road. Not the prettiest route and certainly not the quietest either. That takes some getting through, because after the sour comes the sweet.
Swinging up
The climb to Grand Dixence is mainly characterised by its length, the dichotomy in the climb and also, well, the altitude. The finishing point is above 2,100 metres. The devil is in the tail with this climb. The last four kilometres present you with gradients that make you dizzy. It is a work of art waiting there in the hairpin bends, but one to stomp through. On the way there, the first section between Vex and Héremance is a beautiful one with curves and views over the valley. After Héremence, the back of the valley appears in view and with it the imposing dam. We stopped briefly in the village to gather again and refill water. So far, it is full of enjoyment.
Monster of a climb
The closer to the end point, the more it becomes clear what a monster this climb actually is. After being momentarily lulled into lethargy by a stretch of relatively flat terrain, the road begins to rise rapidly again. It is an almost straight line, which only turns into a tangle of hairpin bends four kilometres below the summit. Make no mistake that this straight line climbs at an average of eight per cent just like that. Once at the hairpin bends, the Wahoo starts to seriously struggle. It turns deep red and I see numbers up to fifteen per cent. For a few hundred metres it doesn't drop below ten. I toil and sweat, but in the meantime I take a peek at those beautiful hairpin bends. That will be enjoyable photos!
Storm
Eventually, we reach the top. At the dam, there is an option to take the cable car all the way to the top. By bike, this is not possible, you end up at the bottom of the dam. We stay there and plop down on the terrace for a drink. Suddenly, we hear rumbling further on. Without noticing it, we were too busy climbing, a cloud cover has formed over the valley. The dark clouds are ominous and the accompanying sound says it all. This means trouble. You then have two choices: stay put or turn back quickly. Ruben and I, after emptying our glass, decide to go straight back. Erwin and Erwin stay up for a while and go to the top of the dam. In hindsight, both choices were equally good. The thunderstorm has passed.
Descent
The descent is pure pleasure. The first four kilometres are twists and turns, but the short sections mean you don't have high speed and you can descend technically well. Traffic is not too bad and most of the turns are clear. After four kilometres you turn onto the long clear section. From here it is really full throttle downhill. Which is nice sometimes. Little kinks in the road surface, little to no traffic. In fact, you can completely lose yourself in your own world. That is the icing on the cake of this climb. Although dead-end, this one comes high in the top of driven climbs.
Wet road surface
The closer we got to Hérémence, the wetter the road surface. The thunderstorm also brought some rain and apparently the heavens opened up for a while. Because of the heat, it also dries up quickly again. Fortunately, it is not a winding course. In the village we stop again to refill the bottles and Ruben does some work on his bike. The rim brakes have had their day and need to be changed. We are in the shade, but every step in the sun is an assault on the body. It heats up very hard. The final stretch, via Vex and some nice hairpin bends takes us back on the provincial road towards Sion. Once at the bottom, it's crossing through the valley towards Sierre for the climb up.
Abandon
Already during the climb I notice some physical discomfort. They don't go away and I can't turn uphill properly. I am glad when I reach the top. With the painful climb to Crans-Montana in mind, I watch it for a while. At the crossing of the valley I find out that it's going to be a tough ride up another 15 kilometres at eight per cent and that in the burning sun. The decision is made. In Sierre we stop at a local tent for a bite to eat and then I motor up. It's no different for a while. Later I understand that Ruben's climb didn't come naturally either. That's cold comfort then. As I go up, I catch a glimpse of my great friend Christ the Redeemer. Not seen all day. Next time, let's ask for help again.
