Many cyclists riding in France go on an adventure once they arrive at the Dordogne. This river that flows from eastern to western France and empties into the Gironde near Bordeaux is perhaps France's most famous water after the Seine. Yet confusion often arises there when it comes to cycling in the Dordogne. This is because the river covers a much larger area than just the Dordogne department. I myself was once on a campsite in the town of Beaulieu-sur-Dordogne, a hamlet in the Corrèze department. From there, the river first flows through the Lot before arriving later in the Dordogne itself. Explorer Neal also came to that conclusion. With a lot of preliminary work about the Dorrrrrrdogne (as Ronald Giphart once described it in 'Ik ook van jou'), he came home cold. Cycling in Lot-et-Garonne was his portion, resulting in a no less enjoyable report
Text and photos: Neal Beentjes.
Cycling in Lot-et-Garonne
As I get ready for a wonderful holiday with girlfriend and little son in France, I take a closer look. The Dordogne. A stunning area. Komoot is working overtime as I start planning and wildly enthusiastic I mention the collection soon 'Dordogne Dreaming'. After making a few routes, which I will eventually cycle, comes the revelation. Villeréal, a royal village, which has nothing to do with the Villareal football club, lies just south of the 'real' Dordogne. Just my luck. Reluctantly, I change the collection name to the boring 'Lot-et-Garonne'. Pretty weird really, because despite not being the real Dordogne, that doesn't make cycling any less beautiful. Villeréal is also worth a visit in its own right.
Plus Beau Village de France
Anyone who is a little at home in French history and customs knows that the French are very proud (and sometimes chauvinistic) people. There is France, there you have beautiful villages and towns, and for many the world ends after that. Which is convenient, because in that world everyone speaks French and if you don't understand that, well, what are you doing in France anyway? Nonetheless, France has some truly beautiful towns and villages that you really must have been to, so to speak. Every so often, the organisation 'Les plus beaux villages de France' chooses the most beautiful villages and towns in France. So this is the cream of the French crop. The village of St. Paul de Vence in the Provence is one such place but also Villeréal. The beautiful central square with its distinctive market hall and unusual church makes this a tourist attraction.
La Douce France
Despite its proximity to cities like Bergerac, Villeneuve sur Lot and Bordeaux, the Lot-et-Garonne department is relatively quiet. That is not to say that there is nobody there. I will advise against cycling on the (major) D-roads in France. Most French people race like crazy and a safe return to campsite or flat is by no means guaranteed. Fortunately, you have plenty of alternatives. There are plenty of shortcuts to avoid the crowds. Turn into any country road and you'll encounter practically no one. A typical drive in the Lot-et-Garonne is our VVV drive below, east of the village of Villeréal. Imagine the endless rolling roads in a transitional stage of the Tour de France. The average pro will not turn a blind eye to it, but with my beach body, the climbs are still a bit fierce.
Chateaus and Bastides
Whoever says cycling in France will immediately think of high mountains, but also of beautiful sunflower fields and lovely castles. In the Lot-et-Garonne, you can have your fill. In that respect, the villages of Monflanquin, Castillonnès, Monpazier and Biron are a big tip. These villages have a few things in common. They are all situated on a hill and also have a bastide (typical southern French town with eight blocks of houses around a market square) or a chateau. In fact, each village is a perfect place for a stopover and a fresh croissant. In Biron, you can stop off at L'authentique epicerie du coin, in the town's former primary school. The name alone, for that you get on your bike. For a few euros, you have a typical 'petit dej' there, with coffee and 'Viennoiserie'.
It doesn't get more authentic
Everyone is always looking for authentic. Only to end up on a campsite full of Dutch people complaining about the weather. Or on a Spanish beach, accidentally eating a delicious croquette or frikandel at 'broodje van Kootje'. Just away from home, but still completely at home. I am not into that. The beauty of cycling 'abroad' is precisely that you can discover new things. It has to be said that the inhabitants of France are just a little less talkative than, say, the British or Italians, but still. Discovering new things and finding authenticity, that is precisely the cool thing about cycling in this area. There are still countless authentic French villages. Additional advantage: all these villages are connected by different cycling routes. You don't need a navigation app to easily get from one village to another via signs along the side of the road. Great for a real coffee ride, or if you want to explore the area all day. Roaming is what they call it.
Gavaudun
If you go cycling in Lot-et-Garonne, Gavaudun Castle should not be missing from your route. It is rightly worth a special shout-out. The village of the same name is very quiet even in high season. Read: there is not a chicken in sight here. Quite crazy really, because it is beautiful. Via a winding road through a gorge, you cycle in the shade towards the village of Lachapelle-Biron. The cool thing about this road is that it is suddenly a lot greener than the rest of the area. An oasis in France.
There's more to explore
Lot-et-Garonne is not a destination I would go to specifically for cycling. Should you go on holiday, it is definitely worth bringing your bike. Besides, I passed quite a few unpaved paths, so I think as a graveller you can also have your fill. All the rides I did are between 40 and 50 kilometres long, so perfect for finishing before breakfast. Curious about the routes? Check out the Komoot collection.
