Anyone going cycling in Italy almost automatically thinks of the Dolomites, the Stelvio and to Tuscany. But all over Italy, thanks in part to the Appennines, beautiful stretches of cycling fun await you. For in Lombardy, you can go up nicely, for example at Lake Como. Or how about Piedmont? Or of Emilia Romagna, which we all got to see during the Cycling World Cup 2020. And so on. We were on holiday just east of Verona, where the Lessinia park lies (or completely: Parco Naturale Regionale Della Lessinia). Cycling in the Veneto is relatively unknown. This Parco Naturale Regionale Della Lessinia is one of those. A gem as far as we are concerned.
Climbing in the shade
The national park is located in the Veneto region, about 30km north of Verona. The park can be compared to the Vosges Mountains in terms of altitude. The highest peak, Rifugio San Giorgio, which we also drove up to, is at 1494m. Just right as far as we are concerned, because that way you stay below the tree line, especially in the hot summers. In this case, it also means you can cycle relatively much in the shade. Absolute plus point.
Leaving early
Since it can get very hot in summer anyway (up to 36 degrees in the valley), we set off early in the morning from Soave, our basecamp. The road actually goes up immediately, albeit gradually. The first part of the drive already offers stunning views as you drive surrounded by all kinds of vineyards. Not very strange, as this area is known for its good white, but also red wines.
Just after the first village of Tramigna, you have the first mini challenge. A climb of about a kilometre, with three hairpins and an outlier to 12%. And that within 10km of the start. After this vicious climb, the road gradually goes uphill for a while with percentages of 2-4%. Fine to get into.
You then have the option at Badia Calavena, after 23km, to turn left on SP36. This is a nice route with a number of hairpin bends, a kilometre of pain over the 10% and beautiful views over the park. We chose to drive north for another stretch and turn left at the village of Bernardi. A super good choice.
Intermediate climb, winding to the next exit
This stretch is very quiet. It is also quite narrow but it is completely shaded by overhanging trees. You do see a little less of the surroundings as a result, but it is certainly very good road surface for the first stretch. It is a kind of 'intermediate climb' where you are also treated to some nice hairpin turns. Mind you, unlike the earlier turn, you pick up percentages to above 15% here. So put in good resistance!
Pay attention, because the last kilometre they forgot to properly asphalt the road surface. There are sometimes sudden potholes in the road where you can fall ugly. We therefore do not recommend taking this route as a descent. At the top of this intermediate climb, turn right towards the final destination: Rifugi di San Giorgio.
Beautiful landscape
After the village at the top of the climb, the landscape suddenly seems to 'open up' in front of you. Wide panoramic views of alpine meadows with mountain peaks beyond. In the other direction, you can see far into the valley. Truly magnificent. The road surface here is fantastic. It looks like the local Department of Public Works has just laid fresh asphalt here because it is a billiard sheet.
Only downside to this climb: you drive on the main road. There isn't really an alternative either, and on a busy weekend day this is a drawback. So go early (as we did) or go during the week. Avoid the bank holidays Ferragosto! That's when all of Italy is barbecuing on the verge or on the alm itself.
On the road to the hamlet of Rifugio di San Giorgio, you'll come across several taverns where you can stop for a refreshing coke. The best one, however, is at the Localita Conca dei papari, about 5km below the summit. You can look out in all sorts of directions, there is ample parking and, especially compared to the summit, this is a winner. Also nice because the last few hundred metres towards it are steep to super steep!
Last leads
To the rifugio, it's a bit of a ride out in the end. It undulates, meanders and only the last kilometre hurts a little. What hurts more is the sight of the hideous ski village at the summit. This is past glory squared. Architecturally ugly, poorly maintained and without atmosphere. Tap the sign and drive on!
Passo Branchetto
The actual summit is just a bit further from the village, but after that you dive into a nice clear descent, via Branchetto. It is obviously less crowded here, but you are also on the main road. So watch out for crazy Italians who like to overtake you before a blind bend.
After a nice descent through several villages, where you can stop for lunch or a real Italian 'Gelato', you turn left again and take in another nice part of the Lessinia park. The strade provinciale 15 is pretty well paved and you still have to go up for 7km. Of course, you could choose to just descend, but then you make a huge corner and drive the last stretch along the motorway. Ain't so funny.
More climbing
SP 15 offers nice hairpin turns and eventually climbs some 380m in 6.5km. That's 5.7% on average. Fine climb in other words! The views over the valley and the park are again excellent. At the top, it is then a nice long descent. You do go mostly through villages and along the provincial road here. But remember, if you follow the descent on SP 16, you will have a valley on both sides with a view! That really is quite beautiful!
Just before the turn left towards Tregnago you have the best view. Stop for the photo! From Tregnago, it's rolling out towards Soave, again between vineyards. At the end of this beautiful drive, we plop down on the terrace with fond memories and good stories. We have now earned that local Soave.
Soave and the castle
The town of Soave must have been of strategic importance back in the Middle Ages. Indeed, it is surrounded by a thick, medieval city wall, which is well preserved. From quite a distance, you can already see this picturesque villagio, partly because of the beautiful castle that rises above the town. The kasteel can be visited. You can walk up along the wall from the town. Steep and definitely on the hot side in summer. Better to drive to the entrance by car.
Cycling in the Veneto is definitely worthwhile. After your ride through the Lessini park, stop for a coffee (at Il Bugi) lunch or to taste one of the delicious local wines. There are several 'Cantini' where you can drink the wine almost directly from the maker. Cantina del Castello is very well known.
