Anyone who thinks of cycling in Zeeland will almost automatically think of the Delta Works. The 'piece de resistance' of Dutch water management. Construction of this imposing system began after the 1953 flood disaster. Neeltje Jans is the name everyone learned in primary school. At least, that is what I am assuming. The Oosterscheldekering is an impressive installation, almost 10 kilometres long in total. In the middle you will find Neeltje Jans. Every year, that Oosterscheldekering is the setting for the NK headwind cycling event. It gives you an idea of the conditions here. On the north side of the barrier you find the picturesque Burgh-Haamstede. We arrived there for our 12 months - 12 provinces - 12 parks series in collaboration with Landal GreenParks. This time in the Landal resort Haamstede. We made some great cycling routes again!
Read also:
- Landal GreenParks Natuurdorp Suyderoogh: ideal for exploring the Wadden coast
- On a cycling adventure from Landal GreenParks Waterparc Veluwemeer in Flevoland
Always that wind
One thing is certain. If you go cycling in Zeeland, you're going to struggle with the wind. One day it blows a little, the next day it blows more. After all, you are on the coast, so it will never be completely windless. On our first day, we immediately take the plunge and cross the Eastern Scheldt storm surge barrier. It is a mighty sight and a beautiful route to cycle. You have a wide path, there is a lot of other cycling traffic, but especially in the early hours, with the rising sun, it is a unique sight. We ride towards Noord-Beveland, on the other side of the Oosterschelde. From there, we make a nice lap around the Scheldt. A bit along the waterfront, then back into the farmlands. You have relatively little traffic and a good overview of the paths here.
Zeelandbrug back
If you follow the route, you eventually reach the Zeelandbrug, which is another beautiful piece of engineering work. As a cycle bridge, the Zeelandbrug is less inviting. A narrow two-way cycle path lies at the edge of the bridge. Every time I cross this, I think again: something only has to happen and I have free swimming lessons. You ride here for kilometres with water only on both sides. In the distance, you can see the tower of Zierikzee. A pretty town with a typical old harbour and ditto houses. Nice for a stop on a longer trip. Then it's back along the dike towards Burgh-Haamstede. A nice route to start our stay with!
Over the farm roads of Schouwen-Duiveland
Burgh-Haamstede is located on the island of Schouwen-Duiveland. Together with Noord-Beveland, Walcheren, Zuid-Beveland, Tholen and Zeeuws-Vlaanderen, it forms the province of Zeeland. Besides Zierikzee, the island of Schouwen-Duiveland is also home to the popular seaside resorts Renesse and Brouwershaven. In between is a vast landscape with farmland, nature reserves and the occasional village. With names like Scharendijke, Kerkwerve and Dreischor, I always wonder where these come from. Anyway, names in Zeeland always seem to end in an 'e'. It's not 'kerk' but kerke'. Not Scharendijk, but Scharendijke. Just as it is not Ijzendijk, but 'iezendieke'. Eede with double ee...shoot me.
Choice of almost all islands
Another route we ride covers the west of Schouwen-Duiveland and goes via the Grevelingendam to South Holland's Goeree-Overflakkee. Here we tap the holiday village of Ouddorp and then turn back through the dune landscape. A scenic route of almost 55 kilometres takes us the highlights of two provinces. On the Grevelingendam there is a lot of kite surfing. So you have to deal with wind here too. The cycle path, on the other hand, is very tight. About halfway down the dam, you make the crossing from South Holland to Zeeland again (and vice versa.
Noord-Beveland, Zuid-Beveland and Walcheren
If you really want to challenge yourself then head from Burgh-Haamstede for a round of Veersche Meer. You then go via Veere and literally follow the over of the lake. You then also pass the flood memorial 'waves, dike and hand'. Always impressive and good to remember that almost 2,000 people lost their lives here in February 1953 because of the washing water. You then turn again past the sand sluice towards Noord-Beveland and can choose to drive back to Neeltje Jans via this island or take the Zeeland Bridge. Tip: the municipality of Noord-Beveland was recently voted cycling municipality of the year!
Endless possibilities
In one week, we ride about six different routes. Short rounds of 30km but also some longer ones. We have been in the area before, and even then we were able to enjoy the beautiful Zeeland countryside. If you go for long days on the bike, you can set out tours of 100+ kilometres and still discover new places every time. So enjoy. I was with my family and together you can also enjoy going out by bike. There are several bicycle hire options, including on the park itself. We hired a cargo bike and used it to head for the beach and the surrounding villages. That way, you can really discover the surroundings in an accessible way. Cool.
Accommodation
We are staying in a very spacious 6-bed villa at Landal Resort Haamstede. This is part of a trio of Landal Parks, which collectively share a number of facilities. Naturally, there is a sandwich service, a catering facility and a restaurant. At the catering facilities you'll also find the indoor playground and bowling alley, plus miniature golf. The latter three are all for a fee. You can also play tennis or padel here. It all looks well organised.
The house we have is really spacious. By now we have been able to stay in several 6-person accommodations and this one takes the crown. There is an internal storage room (where you can easily store 4-5 bikes), the living area is large, with a lovely sofa and a good long table. Upstairs, you'll find three large bedrooms and two bathrooms. Pure luxury, in other words. A sitting area outside completes it all.
Tips nearby:
- In Burgh-Haamstede (it's actually two villages), you have a delicious pancake restaurant. Pancake Mill the Grainhalm he is called. Cheap, fast and good quality. They only have one speciality though: pancakes so if you don't like those, it's nothing
- Baker Sonnemans in the village there is another one that makes boluses the 'grandmother's way'. Highly recommended, because Zeeland without bolus is not Zeeland.
- The ice cream parlour in the village is a special one. A 'one-man-show', but one that rapidly works out ice creams, soft-serve ice creams, smoothies, coffee and I don't know what else. Delicious after a long summer drive.
- If you cross the barrier at Neetlje Jans, you can stop in Oostkapelle at the Cash room. Delicious bakery, super delicious coffee and if you meet there with your family, you have no complaints about long trips or time away anywhere.
- Want to hire a bike? You can do so at the park itself, where children's bikes, city bikes and e-bikes are available for hire. Looking for a sporty bike or a cargo bike? Then go to Biketotal Jan de Jonghe. Which rents out all sorts of things. Keep in mind that you are in Zeeland, so on Sundays the hut is closed.
- Going to the beach for a day? Then opt for the beach at Westenschouwen. The beach club Sand and Pepper is really sublime (in terms of food but also service) and the beach overlooking the barrier is impressive. If you want to have lunch at Sand and Pepper, then reservations are recommended. Popular with many so!
Bicycle routes Landal Resort Haamstede
Next stop: South Holland!
