It is a Thursday in August around noon. Today we cycle to Barrage d'Emosson, in the Martigny area. The sun is high in a bright blue sky. I quickly check my bike computer: 10% gradient. It feels like double that. Sweat beads off my face. A fellow cyclist calls out to me: 'It gets a bit steeper from here.' My courage sinks in. Fortunately, I still have room to downshift. At the top, a beautiful view awaits at the Emosson dam. That keeps me going.
By: Sander Kolsloot - photos: Alain Rumpf
World Cup territory
Barrage d'Emosson or Finhaut-Emosson is in the canton of Valais (Valais in German) and this is where a complete World Cup spectacle should have taken place in September 2020. The corona virus threw a spanner in the works: the World Cup was cancelled and moved to Italy. However, we had the chance to explore some beautiful routes in the area and still experience a bit of that World Cup feeling.
Local Hero
On the first day of our stay in Martigny, Valais, we were kindly welcomed by Alain Rumpf, our guide, and former pro Steve Morabito. We are presented with an extensive exploration of what should have been the World Cup course. Morabito is the local hero, born in Monthey, just 20km from Martigny. These days, he is an ambassador for the region, but is mainly concerned with making the cycling routes in Valais safer. He has personally ensured that at least 15 climbs have been equipped with signposting and that cycling routes have been mapped out. A good contribution from the former Swiss champion.
Scherprechter
After a brief introduction, we slowly roll out of Martigny. Pretty soon there is the Col de la Petit Forclaz, the once-intended showpiece of the World Cup course. With over four kilometres of climbing at almost ten percent average, this is a tough calf bite. Puffing and groaning we reach the top. Morabito waits for us, smiling. 'This is good warming up, isn't it?' he chuckles. He still has enough breath to talk quietly about his work as ambassador for Valais. A nice addition to the stunning view across the valley towards Martigny.
Barrage d'emosson
After a short coffee and water stop, it is almost 30 degrees in the full sun, we continue our way towards the Barrage D'Emosson. This climb was the final climb during the 17th stage of the 2016 Tour de France, a stage that caused decisions in the standings in the final kilometres.
MORABITO!
We crawl up at a snail's pace and increasingly understand why. The signs along the side, which Morabito so proudly told us about, give accurate and sometimes painful information about the next few kilometres. Ascent rates to over 10 per cent are the rule rather than the exception. The closer to the top, the steeper it seems to get. Morabito rides up here with extra ease. His name has been painted on the road more than 200 times. Gift from the fan club led by his brother. I guess it will give extra morale.
Breathtaking views
Once at the top, we fall silent. Literally and figuratively. The view of the alpine peaks, with Mont Blanc in the distance is sublime. I am truly moved for a moment. The combination with the reservoir and dam complete the picture. The clicking of cameras and cries of admiration break the silence.
Also back
After a good Swiss lunch and a short ride over the dam, we dive into the descent. This was already nice uphill, but downhill we are presented with a technical descent, with good road surface and a few nice sharp turns. Traffic is not too bad, which helps on a descent like this. At the bottom, a small climb to the top of the Forclaz awaits before ending in Martigny via a beautiful downhill.
Detail: the counter reads almost 80km/h and while everyone else is hanging at the bottom of the stirrups, Morabito is leaning loosely with his hands on top of the handlebars.
Dear mechanic
The Swiss is completely relaxed but also extremely helpful. As we descend, I puncture. No mean feat. Fortunately it is a slow deflation, but still serious enough for a tyre change. Steve quickly grabs the wheel and like an accomplished mechanic he changes the tyre. At the same time, he gives some tips on other climbs and helps with better securing a saddle. I didn't expect that for a moment and eagerly capture the scene on film. What a wonderful day on the bike and what a unique place to visit.
Stay
Switzerland generally has very good accommodation. For cyclists, there are additionally special bike hotels, with locked storage for bikes, space for tinkering and extra good facilities (breakfast is also a must). If you go cycling in Valais, you can stay, as we did, in Martigny at the Hotel Campanille. That just went from a 'bike-friendly' to official bike hotel.
Food - Drink
While cycling in Valais, you come across all kinds of great places to stop for a drink or snack. On top of the Forclaz is a fine tavern for a coffee and you can refill water in the well. On top of the Emosson dam is a good lunch spot, with local specialities.
Useful to know: In winter, many passes and climbs are closed due to snow (and ice). If you want to know if you can cycle nearby: Switzerland's Alpen Pässe site has the most up-to-date info on the opening of these passes. https://alpen-paesse.ch/en/
How to get there
Switzerland is easily accessible from the Netherlands by car, although the region around Aigle - Martigny still involves at least 10-11 hours net travel time. A good alternative is the train. Switzerland has one of the best train systems in Europe and there is also the option of purchasing a Swiss Travel System pass for several days (up to 14 days). All information on this can be found at www.MySwitzerland.com/rail
You can take the overnight train to Basel, or else take a regular train, where you do have to check whether you can bring your bike. Via Nightjet.com you'll find lots of info.
