Freiburg is your new cycling hotspot in northern Europe

When on our second day in Freiburg appear at breakfast, the sun is already doing its job outside. Although the temperature is still not too bad, another tropical day is on its way. We discuss the route for a while, but it soon becomes clear: we are going to climb 'The Kandel'. One of the highlights here around Freiburg. Just a little after eight o'clock, having had a fine cyclists' breakfast of eggs, yoghurt with granola and fruit plus a cup of coffee, we get on our bikes. Eastwards, then, towards the Black Forest with this cycling route from Freiburg

text: Sander Kolsloot - Photos: Sander Kolsloot - Mark Heij - Dennis Knuist

Close to nature

Our hotel is on the south-east side of the city, and as we start the route, we drive into nature in no time. Whereas the day before we drove a long stretch along the river, but within the city limits, the urban environment is now pretty much over. In the distance, the mountains await us. The cycle path is wonderfully wide and, with the sun not being too hot, it is thoroughly enjoyable. After about 10 kilometres we turn left. Wahoo immediately shouts: 'climb!' With 17 kilometres ahead at an average of 4.5 per cent, it's a lovely long run. Note that there is a bit of a descent in it, so the climbing average will be slightly higher.

Alps, Dolomites or just Germany after all?

As soon as the climb really starts I have to blink a few times. Am I dreaming? Am I Germany or yet in another Alpine country, or yet secretly in Italy? It is a beautiful alternation of alpine meadows and beautiful rock faces. it feels like the typical Alpine climb. Although that means we are not officially in the Alps. Special and that just 6.5 hours' drive from Utrecht. By train, you can even get there in under six hours. The first part of the climb is really there to warm up. The percentages barely exceed five per cent, so we have a good time catching up, taking photos and enjoying the scenery. Traditional farms and small villages alternate. With names like St Peter and Sägendobel, you do feel like you're really in Germany again. The forest offers sufficient protection from the burning sun, although you cannot avoid riding in open fields for a while.

The real thing

After St Peter, the real work begins. Here we are also presented with the first hairpin bends, often a sign that the percentages are heading towards double digits. It remains quite green and will be so almost to the summit. That summit is at only 1,200 metres, but to get there you have to negotiate some steep sections. Here the metres tick up to 11 per cent, with a kilometre at an average of nine per cent. This is no mean feat. This part of the climb is also a lot more irregular than the first part. What is noticeable, however, is that despite its length of over 17 kilometres, it does not feel like community service to ride up here. The view at the top (near the Bergkandel restaurant) also does a lot! Unfortunately, we cannot make the descent to Waldkirch because of 'explosives work'. So we turn around.

Coffee stop in the Glottertal

On the way down, Dennis and I make a small change to the route. In doing so, we lose our cycling buddy Mark. A small form of panic takes over, combined with no phone coverage causes us to make our way back up. Who knows, maybe Mark is in a ditch? Just before we want to start a real search, the phone gives a few bars of coverage again. After three rings, I hear Mark's voice crisply: 'where are you? I'm at the hotel!' A sigh of relief. Dennis and I make the turn towards Glottertal, where we plan a coffee and cake stop after a wonderfully undulating descent. At Thomas Weiss, it's delightful. Combined with a price level that seems almost pre-war, the cake and coffee taste extra good.

Crossing to Kaiserstuhl, the must-see in this area

We had the choice of heading towards Titisee, but in the end the pictures and google convince us of the route towards Kaiserstuhl. The so-called Texas Pass, which we already previously have named, is our main goal. We see vines, beautiful curve lines and a relatively easy climb. Let's go. First, though, we have to cross before that, right through farm fields and to actually get to Kaiserstuhl, you also have to overcome some vines. Tip from the butcher: vines lie against a hill and that hill is often steep. Result: calf bites that make the altimeter turn deep red. The pictures, on the other hand, make up for a lot. Mark follows us in the car and eventually waits for us at the Kaiserstuhl.

It doesn't disappoint.

In the pictures, it already looks quite nice. To say that is an understatement. Once on site, we drive up the short Texas Pass to the Emperor's chair. Because that's what it really feels like when we stand at the viewpoint. What a beautiful picture is presented to us. Vines, hairpin bends, a vista that makes your mouth water for a moment.

Just another detour

After our short photo shoot, the result is worth it, we head back towards Freiburg. The route we have chosen sends us over another of the familiar hill ridges. What the route planner does not indicate is that we are sent over white gravel lanes for a few kilometres....bergaf. That wasn't quite the plan. Anyway. We are not to be taken for granted. When we reach a tavern at the end of the descent, we have 1 more cup of coffee. When we want to pay, there is a little surprise: here, you can only pay in cash. There you are, with collectively about 6 payment accounts, but zero possibility to actually pay. Oh well. The joke: 'if we can wash up' is definitely made. Fortunately, we get a note with an account number and everything can be arranged. We return home again.

Student city Freiburg

Freiburg is a real student city. It reminds me very much of the various Dutch student cities. Compact, convenient and there is a lively atmosphere. Mayor Lenferink of Leiden, the city where I once studied, said at every introduction week that the city came alive again when the students returned from holiday. When we are given a short tour of some of the city's highlights, including the Münster (big church), the new library (architecturally very interesting) and through the main street and the city gates, the city really comes to you. So lovely to come back after a long day of cycling and grab a terrace. Or take a dip in the Dreisam, the river that characterises and also enriches the city.

READ ALSO: Insanely beautiful cycle route in Freiburg

Caffè Bicicletta - typically German

When we are almost back at the hotel, we still have some malcontents. Flat tube, a quick change. Now we are near Freiburg's cycle café, Caffè Bicicletta. A great place for an espresso, a cappuccino or to just fix your bike. We pop in. Owner Martin Allmendinger is a cycling fanatic with a clear opinion. About life, about bikes, about coffee. Also someone who likes to help. We are allowed to use the workshop, which soon turns into a complete DIY session in which Martin is not afraid to let his hands do the work. We drink a cup of coffee (the best latte and cappuccino in Freiburg, according to locals), a local non-alcoholic brew and we talk about the peculiarities in the peloton. The best place for a 'boxenstopp' as it is then so nicely called.

Cycling route from Freiburg