Freiburg is your new cycling hotspot in Northern Europe

If we are on our second day in Freiburg When we show up for breakfast, the sun is already doing its work outside. Although the temperature is still a bit chilly, a new tropical day is on the way. We discuss the route a bit more, but soon it becomes clear: we are going to climb ‘De Kandel’. One of the highlights here around Freiburg. Just after eight o’clock, after we have had a good breakfast of eggs, yogurt with granola and fruit plus a cup of coffee, we get on the bike. Eastwards, towards the Black Forest with this cycling route from Freiburg

Text: Sander Kolsloot – Photos: Sander Kolsloot – Mark Heij – Dennis Knuist

Close to nature

Our hotel is located on the southeast side of the city, and as we start our route, we’re quickly immersed in nature. Where the day before we rode a long stretch along the river, but within the city limits, it’s now pretty quick to get to the urban environment. In the distance, the mountains are waiting for us. The bike path is wonderfully wide, and with the not-too-warm sun, it’s a real treat. After about 10 kilometers, we turn left. Wahoo immediately shouts, ‘Climb!’ With 17 kilometers ahead at an average of 4.5 percent, it’s a lovely long ride. Note that there is a bit of a downhill stretch, so the average climb will be slightly higher.

Alps, Dolomites or just Germany?

As soon as the climb really starts, I have to blink my eyes a few times. Am I dreaming? Am I in Germany or in another Alpine country, or am I secretly in Italy? It’s a wonderful mix of alpine meadows and beautiful rock walls. It feels like the typical Alpine climbing. Although we’re not officially in the Alps. That’s special, and all this is just a 6.5-hour drive from Utrecht. By train, you can even be there in under six hours. The first part of the climb is really a bit of a slog. The percentages rarely exceed five percent, so we can really catch up, take photos, and enjoy the surroundings. Traditional farms and small villages alternate with names like St. Peter and Sägendobel, making you feel like you’re really in Germany. The forest provides sufficient protection from the scorching sun, although you can’t avoid driving through stretches of open terrain.

The real work

After St. Peter, the real work begins. Here we also get our first hairpin bends, often a sign that the percentages are heading towards double digits. It remains quite green, and that will be the case almost all the way to the top. That top is only 1200 meters high, but to get there you have to cross a few steep stretches. Here the meter ticks at a maximum of eleven percent, with an average of nine percent for a kilometer. That’s no easy feat. This part of the climb is also much more irregular than the first part. What is noticeable is that despite the length of over 17 kilometers, it doesn’t feel like a task to ride up here. The view from the top (at the Bergkandel restaurant) is also spectacular! Unfortunately, we can’t make the descent to Waldkirch because of ‘spring-cleaning activities.’ So we turn around.

Coffee stop in the Glottertal

On the way down, Dennis and I make a small change in the route. This leads to losing our bike buddy Mark. A small form of panic takes over, combined with no phone signal means that we have to make our way back up. Who knows, maybe Mark is in a ditch? Just before we were about to start a real search, the phone gives us a few lines of signal again. After going through three attempts, I hear Mark’s voice crystal clear: ‘Where are you? I’m at the hotel!’ A sigh of relief. Dennis and I turn towards Glottertal, where we plan a coffee and cake stop after a wonderfully undulating descent. At Thomas Weiss, it’s a feast for the eyes. Combined with a price level that almost seems pre-war, the cake and coffee taste extra delicious.

Crossing to Kaiserstuhl, a must-see in this area

We had the choice to head towards Titisee, but in the end the photos and Google convinced us to take the route towards Kaiserstuhl. The so-called Texas Pass, which we already had, Previously Having appointed a guide, our main goal is to get there. We see vines, beautiful curves and a relatively easy climb. Let’s go. First, we have to cross over, but to get to Kaiserstuhl you also have to overcome some vines. Tip from the butcher: The vines are located on a hill and that hill is often steep. The result: tough legs where the altimeter turns red. The photos, on the other hand, do a lot of good. Mark follows us in the car and finally waits for us at Kaiserstuhl.

It doesn’t disappoint.

The photos already look pretty impressive. That’s an understatement. Once we’re there, we drive up the short Texas pass to the seat of the Emperor. Because that’s what it really feels like when we’re at the viewpoint. What a beautiful view we’re presented with. Vineyards, hairpin bends, a view that makes you want to gasp.

Just one more detour

After our short photoshoot, the results are in and we are heading back to Freiburg. The route we chose takes us over one of the famous mountain ridges again. What the route planner doesn’t mention is that we are being driven over white gravel for a few kilometers… downhill. That wasn’t exactly the plan. Anyway. We are not going to be trapped in one hole. When we reach a rest area at the end of the descent, we have one more cup of coffee. If we want to finish the hike, there’s a small surprise: only contactless payment is accepted here. There you are, with about 6 of us paying bills together but no way to actually pay. Oh well. The joke is sure to be made. Fortunately, we get a slip with a bill number and everything can be arranged. We head back home.

Student city Freiburg

Freiburg is a real student city. It really reminds me of the various Dutch student cities. Compact, organized, and there is a lively atmosphere. Mayor Lenferink of Leiden, the city where I once studied, said at every introductory week that the city would come alive again when the students returned from vacation. When we get a short tour of some of the highlights of the city, including the Münster (large church), the new library (architecturally very interesting), and through the main street and the city gates, the city really comes to you. So lovely to come back after a long day of cycling and having a quick stop at a terrace. Or taking a dip in the Dreisam, the river that characterizes the city and also enriches it.

READ ALSO: Incredible beautiful cycling route in Freiburg

Caffè Bicicletta – typical German

As we are almost back at the hotel, we still have a bit of trouble. Flat tire, need to change it. Now we are near the perfect bike café in Freiburg, Caffè Bicicletta. A great place for an espresso, a cappuccino, or to fix your bike while you wait. We peek inside. Owner Martin Allmendinger is a cycling enthusiast with a clear opinion. About life, about cycling, about coffee. He is also someone who likes to help. We are allowed to use the workshop, which quickly turns into a full-scale repair session where Martin is not shy about waving his hands. We drink a cup of coffee (according to locals the best latte and cappuccino in Freiburg), a local alcohol-free brew, and we talk about the oddities in the peloton. The best place for a ‘pit stop’ as it is so aptly called.

Cycling route from Freiburg