Known as the cycling paradise par excellence, Switzerland offers more than just the classic cycling routes. Anyone who frequents the Cycling Destination website knows that Switzerland's most beautiful climbs, breathtaking views, and grass-green alpine meadows often feature. And with an extensive network of superbly marked cycling routes, including nine national routes spread over several stages , there is always a new challenge to be found.
Text and photos: Ruth Koops van 't Jagt
Gravel in the Alpes Vaudoises: routes
In my search for the best gravel routes in the Alpes Vaudoises, my journey continues via sections of the Rhine and Rhone routes to the ultimate destination for gravel biking: Villars-sur-Ollon. In this late summer week of September, laden with my bikepacking gear, I discover that Villars-sur-Ollon is more than a beautiful ski resort; it is a vibrant hub for gravel bikers. With its authentic mountain vibe, sporting energy and steep streets, Villars is the ideal base for adventurous gravel rides in the Alpes Vaudoises from roughly mid-May to mid-October.
Lovely sleep in Villars
I sleep in the comfortable Villars Lodge, a perfect match for the gravel enthusiast, and after the trips it is great to enjoy the relaxing facilities of Les Bains des Villars, where a sauna and outdoor pool overlooking the mountains are the perfect end to a day of gravel riding in the Alpes Vaudoises." I can't imagine a better place to recover after a tough bike ride.
On the road with Heidi (Lillie)
And spirited cycling, you can certainly do that here. I get to join Lillie Rumpf, better known as @cyclingheidi and the wife of Alain Rumpf. She knows this region like the back of her hand and takes me on her favourite lap. The Gravel version of the Col de La Croix. As the mountains sparkle in the soft morning light, we decide to cheat for the first part. We skip the first long climb and take the train to Bretaye. There our grandiose gravel ride begins. Past a meadow full of alpine cows, we descend towards Lac des Chavonnes. Here, on a mirror-smooth mountain lake, you'll find a lovely little restaurant with a terrace. Especially if you did come cycling from Villars, this is a perfect coffee stop. While the mountain goats belonging to the restaurant clamber deftly over the boulders, we drink coffee and have good conversations about what cycling can mean for women.
Great climbing
Then we continue on our way. Over asphalt and gravel and sometimes slaloming through a herd of cows, we climb steadily. Some bits are treacherously steep, but it remains manageable everywhere. And the views are second to none. Around kilometre 25, for instance, you look out on the peaks of Les Diablerets, a rugged mountain massif with several high peaks. This is cycling as cycling is meant to be. At several parts of the route, it seems as if we are the only living souls exploring these mountains. Graveling on and around the Col de la Croix brings that magical mountain cycling experience. Surrounded by jagged peaks and green rolling alpine slopes, we feel small and grand at the same time. We become aware of the majestic nature that is all around us.
Via Taveyanna to Solalex
After passing the historic hamlet of Taveyanne, we arrive in Solalex, surrounded by the high cliff Miroir de l'Argentine and the gigantic Diabletrets massif. Here we enjoy a gruellingly delicious lunch of local produce. The Refuge is highly recommended. Then it's time to cycle the final kilometres back to Villars.
For me it is certain: I will definitely return to Vaud for more cycling kilometres. Because this region is truly a grandiose Gravel Paradise.
Tips for a fantastic Gravel Adventure in the Alpes Vaudoises
- As already described in the text, I had a wonderful accommodation in Villars: The Villars Lodge is perfect for a cycling adventure from the Alpes Vaudoises. There are several bars and a restaurant, so that's totally great. The rooms are good and have that real Alpine vibe.
- If you want inspiration for multi-day routes, you should check out SchweizMobil's site. Here is the link. That also includes the Alpine Panorama Route which Olivier for Cycling Destination has driven.
- Routes can be found everywhere, but if you like to explore the area with guidance, you should lean on Alain and Lillie. Alain is a photographer and perhaps the best guide in the area. Lillie is not inferior and, as a keen racer, is a good companion. You can reach Alain via Instagram.
- Switzerland is a guarantee of quality. Should you come across a 'mountain hut' along the route, you are almost certain to find a good raclette, a local plate of cheese or dried meat, or a pasta. The Refuge at Solalex is perhaps the best in the area. Apart from the food, it is also a great location.
- If you have time to spare, also head to Aigle, to the CMC of the UCI.
How do I get to Villars sur Ollon?
If you want to go to the Alpes Vaudoises, you have roughly three options.
- By Train: it is quite doable to take the overnight train to Basel and then from there to Aigle or Martigny. From there, the bus or a local train is the best option to get to Villars Ski Village.
- By car: about a 10-hour drive from Utrecht and you are in the Swiss Region of Villars-sur-Ollon. Be careful to buy a vignette though!
- By plane: Geneva and Zurich airports both have good connections to Amsterdam. From Geneva, you have a direct train to Aigle and from there you can get to Villars in no time. In
