The sign Mesopotamia does make me smile. Mesopotamia in Greece has nothing to do with the region in the Middle East, which includes parts of present-day Iraq, Kuwait, Iran, Syria and Turkey. It reminds me of Donald Duck stories, where Mesopotamia was sometimes mentioned as "that's very far away". Donald's adventure in ancient Asia, now that was enjoyable. You often see places in the world bearing the same name. Often it is because of colonisation drift. Mesopotamia in Greek (freely translated) means: land between rivers. If you look at the map, you will see that this piece of land is surrounded by the Ladopotamos and the Aliakmonas. So rightly the land between two rivers. If you go cycling in Kastoria, you will soon be close by!
Northern Greece at its best
Previously, we were travelling in northern Greece. I wrote then about the routes to the Prespa lake, highly recommended for everyone, and the climb by Lake Vegoritsa, to Panagitsa. This is a sort of commune, where you can eat delicious food. The region of northern Greece, Macedonia, has much more in store. On the last day of our trip, we head south-west, towards the gorge at Nestorio and Kotili. Which eventually emerges at the park of Ontria. What a beauty of a route. And on the way? I'll tell you more.
Nestorio
What place names say about a region. Nestorio, our next stop on the route, has its own story. The Nestor is usually the oldest of the group and is therefore considered the wisest because of his experience. There are hilarious passages about Nestor in various descriptions by Homer. Of course, in contemporary Asterix and Obelix, the Nestorix character also has a similar role to play. Back to Nestorio, because this is where, according to tradition, Nestor fled to, along with Orestes. Where one was the founder of Nestorio, the other founded Argos Orestiko. Today, there is little evidence of this historical event in Nestorio. The village of barely 3,000 inhabitants seems more like a 'drinking village with a fishing problem'. Its location at the start of a climb makes it an ideal starting point.
Changing landscape
Everyone thinks of beaches when they think of Greece. Or of barren forests. No one thinks of a landscape much more like 'four countries in one day'. One moment you drive through a gorge that looks a lot like the Ardeche. A moment later it is so green, you could be in Northern California or Oregon for the same amount of money. The yellow lines on the road and the absence of people also helps. Then you look around again and you are in northern Spain, the Basque Country. It really is a gem, if you ask me. The climbs we cycle are uncluttered.
Break
We pause on the south side. My travelling companion needs more of a break than I do. Perhaps the heat is an indicator. It is early summer and the temperature is already rising nicely. You have little protection from the trees. Tips for cycling in the sun, which I ignored for a while. My support team made sure I had a good lunch. Lambros, our driver, keeps looking at me in surprise: 'are you really going to cycle?' He is happy with his place behind the wheel, but also with his role as a 'control nerd'. Because without Lambro, it would have come to nothing. Nick and Kostas fold back into the back of the car and hoppa, off we go!
What a view
We continue, heading back towards Kastoria. Towards the park of Ontria. We turn and turn and arrive at the top. Nearby here is the Vrachos Dam, another highlight to visit. But here on top of the hill, the view is more than nice enough. I dream away again and think of all the good things about this region. What a treat to be here. On the way, we stop at a watering hole for a drink. There are plenty of them along the road, but my tip is to take plenty of water with you. It is sparsely populated here and there are few 'coffee stops'.
Back to Kastoria
Back home, it feels like. The road here is quite wide, but also quite busy. Be careful. We have to cross the hill before we can descend to Lake Kastoria, to our hotel. On the hill, it's off the bike for a while, for a picture and a bit of video. The view of the waterfront town, invites us to descend and enjoy a drink. That's what we are doing.
Tips
If you are going cycling in northern Greece, I have some more tips for you here:
- Take Kastoria as a base. Our hotel, the Orologopolou Mansion is a winner. Right on the square, close to the getaway route and they are very bike friendly.
- Bring enough food and drink for the road
- Pay attention to cars and traffic. Keep cycling neatly behind each other
- The road can be bad at times. Rest assured that this is only for a short distance, but keep in mind changing conditions. So always carry enough spare equipment
- Lunch/dinner at Lake Prespa is a must do. The views are fantastic.
- Are you near Florina? Then stay at the Lynx Mountain Resort
- Mechanical problems? Filippos in Kastoria is the best mechanic. Point.
