Spain's vast, arid plains can be beautiful, but secretly I am more of a fan of green nature. Especially the fact that Spain has many hours of sunshine in the winter months made my boyfriend and I take the campervan to the Spanish coast this year. We were already learning to appreciate the arid landscapes more and more, but as we slowly approached Sierra Espuña and saw the landscape becoming more fertile and green, we became quite happy. What a beautiful, green oasis in the middle of this arid landscape. Of course, this is one of those places you can't drive past without cycling. And a good thing we did; gravelling in the Sierra Espuña is definitely recommended. But take note; cycling in this area is also fantastic. That's why we also share a route tip for cyclists at the bottom.
Text by Maks Groeneveld | Photography by Jeffrey Wiese and Maks Groeneveld
Sierra Espuña Regional Park
Sierra Espuña is a protected natural park in the region of Murcia, in south-eastern Spain. The region covers an area of about 25,000 hectares. It is the greenest area in Murcia, which is why many nature lovers come here. The park is also called the 'green heart of Murcia' by Spaniards. There are some restaurants and picnic areas present where - especially on a nice weekend day - Spaniards gather with family and friends. Yet there is a certain calm in Sierra Espuña, and this seems to be mainly because the area is so incredibly well-maintained. There is no litter anywhere and apart from the more crowded picnic spots, you can cycle or walk in peace in the area.
Read more about cycling in the Murcia region here.
Climbing the Collado Bermejo from Aledo
Whichever side you climb it from; the Collado Bermejo must be climbed during your cycling holiday in Murcia. Most popular is the route from Alhama de Murcia (20 kilometres with 1152 altimeters), but we left from a car park near Aledo and decided to cycle up from that side. The climb is then about 12 kilometres with 600 altimeters. When you turn off the motorway, into the nature reserve, you start with 2 dead straight, false flat kilometres. You immediately imagine yourself in the middle of nature here. And then the climb really starts; some sections are quite steep - up to 12 to 15 per cent. The views, however, are breath-taking. The climb includes several hairpin bends with beautiful views of the road you have already travelled. The higher you get, the more you see of the green landscape. Such a beautiful, forested area I did not expect in this region. There is not really a clear summit, as it is not like you are clearly climbing a mountain. Nevertheless, there is a nice viewpoint at the top. From there, cyclists will start the descent to the village of Alhama de Murcia. For gravel lovers, however, there is another - insane - option
Gravels in the Sierra Espuña
On Komoot, I saw several fences listed for gravel paths. The first stretch would start at the top of the Collado Bermejo. Once we got there, we immediately saw the beautiful dirt road snaking along the edge of the hills. And thankfully; the fences are there purely to stop motorised traffic. It wouldn't be crazy otherwise if motorists or motorcyclists wanted to enter gravel roads in the area, because the gravel roads are wide and in perfect condition. I drain some air from my tyres, which I had just pumped up a bit harder for the climb on the paved road. Then it's pure road riding and enjoyment; 9 kilometres downhill on a gravel road like this is fantastic!
No coffee and cake, but a refreshing drink with 'tostada' in Spain
We emerge on the paved road again, near an information centre. There is a tour bus in front of the building. Oh dear, are we going to encounter many tourists here after all? Fortunately, it's not so bad; the area is so vast that it still feels quiet. We took the route along 'Fuente del Hilo' restaurant lusted. It turns out to be a cosy place with a terrace, in the middle of the forest, with places to park the bikes. Judging by the quantity of mountain bikes, this discipline is also good to do here. Definitely order a 'tostada'; a tasty Spanish toast with tomato, avocado and other goodies to continue the rest of the route.
After the restaurant, we descended a short distance towards Alhama de Murcia, the starting point of the most popular climb to Collado Bermajo. If, like us, you do the climb from Aledo, you descend via this road. The gravel road is actually an alternative way. For example, we also sit on the terrace with cyclists we met during the climb.
Part two of the route: another 10 kilometres of gravel!
We descend only a short distance on the road. Then we turn onto a new gravel road. This road - like the previous long gravel road - is again wide and super well maintained. As a result, we can keep the momentum going downhill. Only a few bits are a bit more technical. As in: there you have to watch out for large loose boulders. Otherwise, we just enjoy the beautiful nature. We haven't come across anyone on this road. Bizarre, we think. There are so many cyclists in Spain in January, but why don't they cycle in this region? There are so many beautiful roads, both road and gravel. You can make plenty of beautiful routes here.
Tips for cycling in Sierra Espuña and Murcia
As a cyclist, you can go in all directions in the protected natural park, but you can also cycle well outside it. Throughout the Murcia region you will find beautiful roads. Thanks to the Mediterranean climate summers here are very hot, but winters are mild and usually dry. We even cycle short-short during this climb, and that in January! Although many pro riders and recreational cyclists train in the winter months on the more northern Costa Blanca, Murcia is a good, quieter alternative. Places like Totana or Alhama de Murcia make a good base. From here you can not only explore the Sierra Espuña, but also take a longer drive towards the slightly flatter coastal area.
Our route tips
On the Komoot page below, I share a gravel and road route with you. You can turn off the gravel route at 21 kilometres into the route if you like. Don't forget to take in the restaurant.
Prefer to take the road bike? Then follow the road route. This route will also take you to the Collado Bermejo, but now you continue on the fine tarmac road and descend as far as Alhama de Murcia. Reverse the route if you want to cycle the climb from Alhama de Murcia. The climb is longer then.
Both routes take you past Fuente del Hilo restaurant.
