Little by little, the sun rises above the hilltop. A string of clouds prevents the sun from shining in its full power yet. It is chilly outside, at around 10 degrees. A combination of dew and mist creates a mystical atmosphere. So is this the mystique and energy of the Rioja region? Cycling in the Basque Country has many faces. Here on the edge of 'Euskadi' and La Rioja shows this region of Spain at its best. It foreshadows a wonderful finale to our Diary of the Basque Country. With a finish on the steps of the magnificent San Mames stadium in prospect. Between our start at Luis Cañas and the finish lies 160 kilometres of rugged but beautiful terrain. How that fared? Read on soon! Curious about our previous cycling days? Then read part 1, 2, 3, 4 and 5.
Master craftsmen
Fair is fair, the past few days have been impressive, but also tough. I am an average cycling tourist who mostly likes to talk and write about cycling. With a young family, my own business and other commitments, I am less trained than I would like. So for the past few days, I can invariably be found in the gruppetto. This last day we really need to accelerate and so we decide to take a 30-minute lead with four men. The aim is to finish together in Bilbao. I am assigned three master riders. It gives me morale and despite the early start (the alarm at 05.40 and the start at 06.30) I am confident of a good result. Uphill I may not be the strongest, but downhill I like to imagine myself as Paolo Savoldelli, Peter Sagan or Vincenzo Nibali. Vamos!
Vines and hills
The vineyards of the rioja make a beautiful backdrop. We understood yesterday that most of the vineyards here are 'naturally' laid out. They are not tightly lined up, but shaped over the years. The harvest does change with the climate. Überhaupt it is difficult to plan the harvesting of the grapes, but also where the grapes grow best changes with it. Earlier, the south side of the hill was popular, now preferring the north side. The height of the vines also varies more and more. Wine regions are often also popular cycling areas. This makes sense, as a good wine requires hills, and let them be sought after by cyclists.
Keep climbing
The road winds very gradually uphill. After a tough start and a short descent, it is now the turn of the Mirador de la Sonsierra. To our right, a beautiful view over the Rioja valley. The aforementioned sun is increasingly shielded by clouds. In some places, the sun still comes through, again creating dramatic images. Nice for photos and it makes for a blissful feeling. My masters help with that, of course. I set the pace. For my group mates it's a training ride, for me it's slightly different. At the summit, we cross back into the Basque Country. because this climb is right in the corner of La Rioja, Basque Country and Castillia y León. On the route we change regions several times, partly because Castillia has an extra piece of land in the middle of the Basque Country.
Character
The descents of the climbs are wonderfully undulating and uncluttered. Good for attacking without having to risk your life right away. I personally call these confidence descents, where you can get used to the speed and turns. After the descent, rolling countryside awaits us again and again. We pass through characteristic Spanish villages, where the ringing of the bells breaks the silence every hour. Where men and women stop each other on the street to ask how things are going. Here the local bar is the focal point and the day rolls from cortados in the morning to glasses of wine and pintxos in the afternoon and evening. Villages like Pobes, Paúl and atmospheric Puebla de Arganzón.
Changing landscape
For the first part of this stage, vines and green trees are our companion along the route. After about 30 kilometres, on the road towards Treviño that picture changes. Green fields filled with other crops accompany us on our way to the next climb. With a little imagination, this could also be in the MidWest in America. It reminds me of the fields of Iowa and Nebraska, which I once rode through on a train with brother Maarten. That the sharpest memory of this is the two gambling-faced sisters from Florida who found everything very NAAAAAAAAAIS says it all. Cycling in Spain, I look at it differently anyway. It gives peace of mind and in the wheel of 'Aitor' van den Boogaard it's good fun. My master riders' engines are running at full speed, allowing me to recover somewhat.
Bilbao in sight
The 'mirador al Valle de Angulo y Cascada' is not in itself a special point on the route. It lies just after a sort of quarry, whose trucks leave a white trail on the road surface and on the bike. Room enough to park the car for a while or, in our case, to set up a picnic. It is chilly and from the cloud cover comes the occasional drizzle. Our lead over the others has shrunk from 30 minutes to 25. In a warm bus, we enjoy a delicious lunch arranged by the team. We let the tortillas and other things taste good. Extra weight on the long descent towards Bilbao, it never hurts. The rest of the group also arrives and after everyone has been able to fill up with extra energy, we head on to the end of a magical trip.
All good things come to an end
The city of Bilbao sits like a gem on the Estuary de Bilbao, a river/canal that bisects the port city. Along the water is a beautiful cycle path, allowing you to literally ride into the city by the hand of the current. It is a majestic sight, with the larger buildings in the distance and also our final destination: San Mames, the stadium of local pride Athletic Club de Bilbao. The exterior and interior of this football temple are both impressive. As is the Guggenheim Museum, designed by Frank Gehry, located further down the road. Our tour ends with a photo session at both the Guggenheim and San Mames, where we are served some more of the local delicacies inside. Overlooking the sacred grass and an atmospheric bar make this the perfect conclusion to our adventure.
Routes Basque Cycling Culture
Do you also want to experience this fat adventure? Then check here for all the routes of our ride through the Basque Country. It was and is pure enjoyment in this beautiful region. Also check out our other collections on Komoot!
