Vast arable land. Sometimes gently sloping. Peasant streets, cobbled or not. Paris-Roubaix captures the imagination of many cycling fans. The 'hell of the north', as this race is affectionately called, is not for everyone. Still, people like to refer to this race. The common denominator in these references? Cobbled sections. Because that characterises the 260-kilometre route from the capital Paris to the fallen industrial city of Roubaix. Similarly, in Zeeland and especially in West Zeeuws-Vlaanderen, you can get to know those 'pesky' cobblestones close to home. During our adventure in West Zeeuws-Vlaanderen, we got to put together a nice route, with 4.9 kilometres of cobblestones! The title? Paris-Roubaix of the Zeeland countryside. Are you enjoying?
Weather and wind
Although the real hell of the north is not comparable to our friendly gravel route in the Zeeland country, on the day we ride it, it is quite an ordeal. The wind has free rein and the approaching, ominous clouds do not bode well. As we gather in IJzendijke, where we on our 'pioneering Zeeuws-Vlaanderen route' also go through, the mill stands still. Because with this wind, it can't turn. Few people like us have put on their cycling shoes to brave the natural elements for over 80 kilometres. Oh well, maybe it suits this route perfectly. Because hell is nothing without hell.
First to the east
The route leaves in the direction of Biervliet and the Braakman. At the Braakman, where we a few days earlier have already ridden, it is even soggier than the day before. It is considerable ploughing through the mud, but that does make it an epic ride. By then we have already passed through Biervliet, where the former town hall is a nice place to take a photo. From the Braakman we ride straight onto the first cobbled section. Take it from me, these are not 5-star stretches like the ones at Mons-en-Pévèle, where the cobblestones really seem to have been thrown down randomly from an aeroplane. These cobbled lanes are relatively tightly constructed. The tractors driving over them have not yet caused deep potholes. With the right tyre pressure (no problem on a gravel bike like ours), all you have here is a bit of the bouncing of the stones. This promises a lot of beauty!
More cobblestones
The first cobbled section is immediately followed by a very long stretch of unpaved road. Beautifully embedded against a dyke. Here the gravel is actually a kind of black stone. It does roll nicely along the beautiful cart track. The wind here blows quite a bit in our faces, but hey, we're happy to put up with it. After this long stretch of gravel, the second cobbled section of the day awaits us. Again, this one is beautifully tight and gives that Paris-Roubaix vibe many are looking for. With a good gravel bike, this is no problem either.
Cheating on southern neighbours
Like our route Boundary graveling this one pulls into Belgium a little bit. We do a variation on the creeks and pick up a nice and long cobbled section here too. While cycling, the wind blows nicely. The overhead power lines in Belgium blow with the wind. Note to ourselves: next time come back with less wind. Then again, that's a bit part of it, of course. Just like the slightly less beautifully paved cobbled lanes of our southern neighbours, which we encounter at our second cobbled section along Boerenkreek. Bump the bump and this would definitely be 3 stars in Paris-Roubaix. That takes some getting used to. But as said before: our bikes can handle it just fine.
Aardenburg back again
At the border post with Sint-Laureins, we cross back over the border and are led through Eede via back paths. Here, of course, we were already at Restaurant de Grensbut here you can also find delicious wine and asparagus. In our tips, you will find the specific addresses you should definitely not miss. From here towards Aardenburg and back to IJzendijke is a beautiful, rugged stretch. You go through the fields, where long farm roads are calling out to be driven. Here you will find what you are looking for in a cool gravel route. We have a full headwind. The going gets tough. But this is what you want, isn't it? Paris-Roubaix in the sun, that's for everyone. Rain and wind, that's for the real cobblestone lovers.
Hide
So although we are not anti-rain, at one point it gets very heavy. We decide to take shelter in the follow car, which we brought along for this trip. This is really necessary. It is pouring down. Checking the weather forecast and waiting is the motto. Because driving on soaking wet is too much of a good thing. But we are lucky. The rain subsides and eventually we can continue. This allows us to complete the last stretch. After 80 kilometres of buffeting, we are ready for a good meal.
Tips along the route:
- Aardenburg and the St Bavo's Church are worth a mention. This town and its building are the oldest in Zeeland.
- Spitsbroek is the asparagus grower from West Zeeuws-Vlaanderen. Known and acclaimed in Eede (and surrounding areas). If it's in season, this is the place to stop for white gold.
- Want more information about this region? Then check out the site of Gastvrij Zeeuws-Vlaanderen.
