A rugged coastline, interspersed with idyllic towns and a deserted beach. Sounds of the 'txalaparta' instead of the more rhythmic Flamenco. A cheerful ¡Aupa! to all the other cyclists you meet. Basque Country is really a different kind of Spain from what you are used to. You won't find tapas here. Pintxos are the 'snack of choice'. Do you really want to taste Basque food culture? Then eat in a Txoko, but only by invitation. Independence is still an important word, even within the union of Spanish regions. We got another taste of all the beauty you can find in a tour of the Basque country. Are you enjoying?
Text: Sander Kolsloot - Photos: Stijn Kanters - Sander Kolsloot
Also read our Diary of the Basque Country: Basque Country diary part 1, Basque Country diary part 2: Playing in Haimar's Backyard, Basque Country diary part 3
Grand Depart Euskadi
When we arrive at Bilbao airport in late April 2023, everything is as different. That the Tour de France to start goes into the modern port city you don't see anywhere. It perhaps also marks the culture. Proud, yet somewhere subdued or reserved. The same cannot be said of our guides for the next few days. Although Ander Ortiz from Bizi Cycle Tours is the calm one, Virginia Berasategui's passion just about comes out of her ears. Especially when we start talking about cycling in the region. That in our planning we don't want to do the stretch near Gaztelugatxe is not an option. "It's the most beautiful part". Noted.
Pearl Bilbao
The sun shines on the city. The Guggenheim museum, a design by Frank Gehry, shines all over. The typical sound of a busy Saturday afternoon and evening meets you. We are staying at the Hotel Gran Bilbao, just outside the old town centre. A perfect base to combine city and region. With a few minutes you are in the middle of the city and with a few minutes you drive among the green hills. This evening we grab our bikes and ride along the river into town. Here we find the first signs of the approaching tour start. Near the courthouse, with the Guggenheim in the background, we find a large countdown clock. The Swiss time sponsor appears large on the sign. Another 69 days it says. An Irish couple is startled: 'only 69 hours!' They briefly missed the difference between 'jours' and 'hours'.
Water ballet
Cycling in the Basque Country is akin to dealing with the weather. It is green, you are on the Bay of Biscay with a mountain ridge that can very nicely block all rain clouds. Where we arrived in sunny weather on Saturday, the big yellow ball is shielded by grey clouds on Sunday. At first, we still insist 'we're going to cycle, we're here now anyway'. When the first torrential rain comes down, we abandon it. It will be a tour of the city. No punishment, because apart from the Guggenheim, the absolute top attraction, you can have a good time in Bilbao. You can go to the impressive San Mames stadium, home to local pride Athletic Club. Don't forget the delicious food or a visit to a classic coffee bar. Above the city you'll find some great viewpoints, which you can 'climb' to in no time, via stairs. In short, Bilbao is also a top location apart from cycling
Stage 1: along the coast
As we get ready for a long day of cycling on Monday, we take a quick look at the route. We head towards the coast, to the town of Plentzia and from there we follow the coastline towards San Juan de Gaztelugatxe. The route is similar to that of stage one from the Grand Depart Euskadi. Although on the long side for a 'nice ride', it is a wonderful route to ride. Tip from us: cut it in two.
Vizcaya Bridge
On the western side of Bilbao, near the port area, you will find an architectural masterpiece. The Vizcaya Bridge, designed by Alfonso Palacio, pupil of the famous Eiffel, is a real eye-catcher. The floating pontoon on the bridge, which can accommodate 200 passengers and six cars, moves back and forth between two banks. Nice to add as a crossing. Is something different from the ferry between Wijk bij Duurstede and Culemborg. After the bridge, we drive towards Plentzia, the second home of our guide Virginia. You'll find a picturesque town centre here, including a new, beautiful bridge and narrow streets. All the villages and towns we encounter offer similar views. A beach or a harbour with a coffee bar, a restaurant and fishing boats. In Plentzia you will also find the only underwater wine cellar. Should you want to take some courage, this is the time.
San Pelaio - Gaztelugatxe
When you think of the coast, you think flat roads, expansive views. Forget it. In the Basque country, even the boulevard is false flat. We ride up and then down again. After about 20 kilometres from Plentzia, we climb the San Pelaio. Three kilometres long, a height of 320 metres, but at an average of seven per cent. Below us, water churns against the steep rocks. We meet a few other cyclists. This circuit of the Basque Country is also popular with Game of Thrones fans. At the top of San Pelaio, there are views of San Juan de Gaztelugatxe. Several seasons of the series were filmed on this island and it serves as Daenerys Targaryen's Dragonstone. This used to be a kind of forgotten part of Spain. Now the coaches drive in and out. Fortunately, everyone obeys the passing rules. From legislation, 1.5 metres distance between cyclist and car is mandatory.
Towards Bermeo and Leida
That the Basque country is home to a number of natural beauties should come as no surprise. One of these is Urdabai, a nature reserve with beautiful beaches, birds, and at low tide you can 'wade' here. Making the round trip from Bermeo towards Geurnica is a must for all cyclists, because of the beautiful views. We can already see Laida on the other side and in the bay the water is beautifully blue. A perfect stop at Atxarre For a delicious bocadillo and a pintxo. This is enjoyment.
Gametxo
From here it heads towards Gametxo and turns inland at Ibarrangelu. As soon as you leave the coast it goes up, It makes sense that the Basque Country produces good climbers: Haimar Zubeldia, Mikel Landa and the Izagirre brothers, Jon and Gorka. This is where we were with Etxeondo in 2022. Read that story again! We discuss here with Virginia also the impact of the Tour start. Not only will it be hugely busy along the road, but the stages themselves will provide spectacle. Especially on this stretch, where the roads get narrow and everyone wants to be at the front. Later, Haimar Zubeldia will add: 'on these roads, all the team leaders shout in your ears that you have to be at the front'. For a moment, we imagine ourselves at the head of the peloton. But for us, the ordinary cyclist, no race stress, it is mainly enjoying the rolling road and the views over the beautiful Basque Country.
On to Guernica
As you can see: there is much beauty in this region, but the darker pages of Basque history are never far away. Guernica is perhaps the prime example of this. A visit to the Basque country automatically means a visit to this city that was bombed on 26 April 1937. After Ereño, where we climb on narrow roads, we descend towards Guernica. The pictures at the town hall and the monument, a tree trunk that survived the bombing, impress. Here, only silence fits.
Final of the course
Our course continues, heading towards the finale of the first stage. With both the Morga, the Vivero and the final climb, the Pike ahead of us, it is hard work. The climb of the Morga is more of a warm-up for the last two climbs. It is a nice running climb at three per cent average. There is a vicious bit towards the end, but once in the village this is already forgotten. For pro riders just 'warming up', but will that apply to everyone?
A clear and spacious descent follows. We have to overcome a short stretch of provincial road to reach the foot of the Vivero. At an obscure roundabout, Komoot says 'turn right'. The start of the climb soon follows and the navigation immediately turns dark red. This is puncheurs' territory. It's raking it in, because after a rolling descent, right away 14% is a drain on your legs. I wonder who will hold their own here on 1 July. On the descent, there is still some caution. The work is not quite finished and we have to hit the anchors. It makes for some nice pictures, though.
Bilbao and then nothing
After the climb flattens out, we turn right before the summit and dive into a narrow and winding descent towards the provincial road. A stretch of 10 kilometres flat towards the Pike. This is where the game really takes off. The climb is steep, like the Keutenberg or the Wall of Huy. The run-up through the residential area hides a lot. Once at the top, little attention will be paid to the stunning views over the city. The 'Bilbao sign' at the Artxanda viewpoint is a nice photo opportunity. We roll down the mountain towards the Stadion San Mames. A wonderful first lap of the Basque Country. This stage has everything you expect when cycling here.
Tour of the Basque Country - the route of stage 1
Here you will find the routes of our trip and also some routes from Stage one, two and three of the Tour de France 2023. A tour of the Basque Country should be something everyone should do once, because it is so stunningly beautiful.
