Cycling on the Costa Blanca - training paradise for pros and enthusiasts alike

In the winter season, the region around Alicante and Calpe is a phenomenal cycling paradise. The autonomous region of Valencia is teeming with two-wheeler enthusiasts. Not for nothing do more and more professional and amateur teams seek out this beautiful region for their training camps. Moreover, more and more professional cyclists (including none other than Mathieu van der Poel) have a flat here and stay almost all winter. Great roads, beautiful climbs and mild temperatures with lovely winter sunshine make this region the place to lay the foundations for a good cycling season. And that does not only apply to the pros. As a recreational cyclist, too, you can indulge yourself here. We cycled for four days on the Costa Blanca through the Marina Alta, as this area is also called. We list the best routes and tips for you. 

By: Ruth Koops van 't Jagt and Tim Sinke

Stay

We are staying at the beautifully located Bed & Breakfast Buena Idea from the hospitable Hans and Jolanda. This B&B is in an authentic finca, more than a hundred years old, located just outside the village of Xaló in the Jalon Valley. The B&B has seven double rooms and a communal conservatory where you can have breakfast or relax. If you are going cycling on the Costa Blanca, this place is ideal for a group of cyclists. If you book all the rooms, you can also use the kitchen. One of the rooms can also be transformed into storage for the bikes, with a professional hanging rack. There is a swimming pool and a 'bubbling pool' to cool down, although in winter that is for the real diehards. At the conservatory there are nice seats to relax in the afternoon and evening sun, looking out over an almond plantation and the mountains in the distance. Hans and Jolanda receive you with great warmth and care. For example, after a hearty breakfast you can start your bike ride with a full stomach and peace of mind.

Bike rental

We rented our fire-engine red Wilier road bikes from Alta Bike Rental from the likeable Belgian Kurt Caboor. He rents out top-notch bikes and provides fantastic service: for instance, he delivers the bikes to your accommodation for free and, among other things, fitted my power meter to the bike (after all, you want to know how fast you're popping up the Coll de Rates, of course). Kurt is an avid cyclist himself (he regularly cycles with Fem van Empel and other female pros, among others) and knows the region inside out. He knows better than anyone how important a good bike is and you can tell that from everything. If you go cycling on the Costa Blanca, Alta Bike Rental is your address.

Cycling cafes 

Along the way, you clearly notice that the region is becoming increasingly popular as a cycling destination, and so there are more and more bike cafés. For example, in Xaló / Jalon you will find Velosol Cycling Bar where they also sell cycling shirts, among other things. Just down the road in Alcalali you will find the Musette Café where even the pros regularly stop for the fantastic coffee and legendary carrot cake (indulge in both on their Facebook page). Finally, in Parcent, on the CV-720, just before or after climbing the Coll de Rates (it's just when you're craving cake and coffee or cola), a relatively new bike cafe from the owners of Blanca Bikes. 

Cycling among the pros and stories

This region is known for its good training roads. The climbs of the Coll de Rates, Coll de la Vall d'Ebo and Coll de Bernia are well known. As the February sun climbs ever higher and warms the valley, cyclists in the Costa Blanca region whizz along the roads everywhere. In all shapes and sizes. Tufts of pros from the likes of Ineós, Visma Lease-a-bike, Lotto-Dstiny, FDJ and Lidl Trek. Semi-professional teams doing their cubes and tests on the Coll de Rates, lactate measurements included. And also a complete team from Team DSM-Firmenich-PostNL rushing past us like a flight of birds on the descent after the fabulous traffic-free climb Alt de Tarrenyes / Pla de Petracos from La Vall d'Ebo. 

Don't be fooled

It is quite intimidating at times, when such strong riders overtake you at their leisure while chatting while you puff and groan and yet you really see a 10% gradient on your Garmin. The sinewy, muscular calves. The tight suits. And the smooth paddling on a bike they seem to be fused to. At the same time, it is also inspiring. Many pros greet you with an encouraging nod, and after all, they too are here to push boundaries as well as enjoy themselves. Moreover, you share the love of cycling. 

A new chapter

And as we write a new chapter in our cycling book here ourselves, I realise that all those cyclists also have their stories. That behind all those impressive climbing legs are also just as many stories. Beautiful and sad stories. It also becomes apparent when we talk to Kurt at greater length. This is not only the region where world champions Fem and Mathieu prepare for a top performance. It is also the region where Ellen van Dijk was already back on the bike shortly after the birth of her son Faas. Where the unyielding Lieuwe Westra and his friends as the 'four Musketeers' were eating up cycling kilometres almost daily. Before finally returning to the Netherlands, where he eventually died. It is also the region of Amy Pieters' fall just before Christmas in 2021. 

It makes me quiet and grateful. That I can cycle here, in the soft winter light, past the lemon and orange groves. Past the almond trees that have not yet been hit by an accursed bacterium and therefore seem to show their pink blossom extra exuberantly. Between the mountains that see thousands of cyclists pass by here every day. All with their own mountains, their own valleys. Here you don't just cycle among the pros. Here you also cycle among thousands of stories. 

Highlights

Highlights in the region naturally include the famous Coll de Rates, where you can enjoy stunning views of the valley from the 626-high summit. As far as we are concerned, however, the ascent of the Coll de la Vall d'Ebo is even more beautiful, and the section from Vall d'Ebo over the Carrer Titar Albir and the Cami a la Vall d'Ebo ranks right at the top. Kurt later tells us that the local riders also call this the death road, because the first part of this route always has short steep sections where you can empty yourself for a while. The second part is a gentle descent along the Barranco de Malafi, where you cycle through a fabulous gorge that seems straight out of a fairy tale. Another lesser-known but beautiful route is the CV-748 between Llíber and Gata de Gorgos. And finally, don't miss the Coll Port de Bernia, with fantastic views over Calpe and the sea. 

Cycling on the Costa Blanca - our routes

During our stay, we drove some great routes. You can find those in the Komoot collection below. Here you will find, among others:

• Our first day together with guide José Tur
• A tour of Vall de Laguar (lovely inland)
• A round Sa Creueta - Coll de Rates
• A nice round Vall d'Elbo
• A beautiful Gran Fondo Loop

Practical

You can travel to the Jalon Valley by private car (about 2,000 kilometres from Utrecht), by Flixbus or train (about 33-35 hours from Amsterdam), or by plane. If you choose the plane, you can fly to Alicante or Valencia and then go for a rental car or a shuttle service or taxi. Although it may seem attractive to stay in one of the coastal towns, such as Denia, Calpe or Altea, we recommend looking for accommodation more inland, such as B&B Buena Idea in Xaló. Then you can start your bike rides right away. This is because the roads from the coast towards the valleys and mountains inland are often busier with cars and a lot less beautiful. There are several bike rental companies, with an emphasis on road bikes. For mountain bikes, you can go to Snake Bite MTB. 

More about cycling in Spain? Then go to our special 'Cycling in Spain' page