By now it should be well known that we at Cycling Destination like to look at destinations just a little bit different from the usual. Because when you think of cycling in South America, it quickly comes to mind Chile or Patagonia in Argentina around the corner. The popularity of Columbia and Ecuador has skyrocketed thanks to Egan Bernal and Ritchie Carapaz. That's when it's nice to have a guest blogger who just 'briefly' goes to Rio de Janeiro. Rio? Yes, Rioooooooooo! Super nice that Alice Cardoso, co-owner of the cool women's brand Veloine has gathered some rounds and tips in Rio. Especially with Carnival very handy. Read along with our tips for cycling in Brazil: Rio de Janeiro?
Text and photos: Alice Cardoso
More than the Olympics
In 2016, the whole world watched Rio de Janeiro in Brazil. It was the year of the 31st Summer Olympics and in that year history was made in cycling. In more ways than one. The UCI's fan-base grew to a total of 1.5 million (!) during the two weke of the Games. Around the world, ratings grew insanely, both for the road races and also on the track. The world could now judge for itself: cycling in Rio de Janeiro IS a possibility!
The road race course
The 241.5km/141km (men's/women's) road race ran along Rio's best routes. Beautiful views of the Copacabana, Jesus the Redeemer, Floresta de Tijuca, Grumari and back again. But the heat and route were atrocious. Out of a total of 144 men, only 63 finished. Of course, 'golden Greg' and Anna van der Breggen were the big winners. Still, many will remember Rio because of 'the fall' of Annemiek van Vleuten.
Where should you be?
Most people think cycling is an activity for countries with better-developed infrastructure. Rio de Janeiro successfully challenges that preconception. The fantastic surroundings iron out a lot of the (literal) bumps. You'll also quickly take for granted the missing bike lanes because the views are so beautiful.
Well, fair is fair, there are a few bike paths, especially the ones made for Rio 2016, but their maintenance is dramatic. The Olympic bike path was closed fairly soon after the games because parts of it fell into the ocean. Oops.
Jungle climbs
Rio de Janeiro has beautiful, steep climbs to the so-called 'jungle' (Floresta da Tijuca) on offer. Here you tap the 14 per cent mark, so das no sinecure. You can also ride beautifully along the city's northern coastline. You'll find routes from the world-famous Copacabana all the way to the foot of the statue of Jesus the Redeemer. and further north to some secret surf spots and untouched nature.
The roads vary from very good, to absolutely dramatic, but nobody here seems to care. Many cyclists in Rio ride on the best and newest frames. Like everywhere else in the world, cycling is one of the most popular trends in Rio and will remain so for some time. Lots of groups are trying to make the city more accessible to cyclists and hopefully that works. By the way, you will be amazed by the beautiful bikes, but also by some cyclists who reach the top of the mountain on a completely ripped-off bike. You will not only see beautiful carbon S-works bikes, but also aluminium barrels of wheels.
Timing matters
Between 4am and 10am, the city belongs to cyclists. Yes, indeed, 4am. In Rio, you have to start early because of the heat and the traffic makes it just about impossible to cycle during normal hours. The city has some closed stretches of streets where you can train car-free between 4am and 5.30am. These streets are usually guarded by patrolling police cars. There are also long strips along the beach from Arpoador to Leblon (the south side) and Barra to Reserva (the north side) that are used for cycling on between 5am and 5.30pm. On top of that, the city also offers closed roads from Aterro do Flamengo all the way to Santos Dumont airport early Sunday morning.
Cycling knows no boundaries
Conquering the mountains around the city, especially the ones that encompass the south side of Rio and lead to Jesus the Redeemer, can actually be done all day. However, if you want to actually reach the statue of Jesus, you need to be at the top between 8am and 10am. The normal start time for the better climbing is between 5 and 10 am. There are two starting points if you want to spend the whole day in the saddle. Rua Alice in Laranjeiras or Pacheco Leao. The latter is at the back of the Rio Botanical Garden. As mentioned earlier, the climbs around the city are quite steep and you really need some stamina (and strength) to survive them. But the views are unparalleled. On some days, the city's wildlife is also awake and you can see monkeys, raccoons, sloths and even snakes, in addition to the regular bird species.
Pay close attention!
It should come as no surprise that you should also take care when cycling in Rio. While it all looks organised and relatively safe, cycling is not completely carefree. You should never ride all by yourself, especially in the early morning hours as you go from one place to another. Cycling is done in a group and there are more than 20 'Assessorias' that offer group rides. They are all accessible for a small fee, but you need to contact them in advance. Some advise leaving your phone at home. I would advise always bringing one, but maybe not the latest model, especially if you don't feel comfortable. At least with a phone, you can call someone in case something happens unexpectedly.
There are also opportunities to arrange a motorbike escort should you go riding all by yourself. These 'moto boys/drivers' also know some great routes, should it come to that.
What are the most beautiful routes?
As far as I am concerned, any drive around this beautiful city is more than worth the sweat. I may also be biased then. But if I have to choose then I would recommend the following:
Cristo-Mirante da Dona Marta
One of my favourite laps starts behind the botanical garden and goes up to the foot of Jesus the Redeemer. Along the way, you drive past the 'Vista Chinesa', a Chiness pavilion that is also a viewpoint, and 'Mesa do Imperador', a huge stone dining table that used to be used for picnics. The street Panheiras is actually a car-free street running up through the forest, while in the meantime you pass several small waterfalls on the way to Christ.
This ride is very steep and you really need to plan some time for it. For the beginner, I would recommend doing only the first part.
Pro tip: When you get to the top, drive on down towards Mirante da Dona Marta Heliport and the vista point there. This spot offers you the only 360-degree view of Rio and also the opportunity to see the Christ statue from the front.
Olympic round
The official Olympic course is a wonderful option for a lap on Saturday or Sunday. You will have to get up really early because of the traffic, but the views are absolutely fantastic. This ride leads you from the south of the city via the coastline to the north. Only downside is the annoying highway you sometimes drive along. But once you get past this highway, see what Rio used to be like, before people thought it was a good idea to build mega buildings along the coast. It's basically beach and forest. Pure and pristine. You will pass several beautiful surf spots on this tour.
