In our series Classic Rides we trek along mythical climbs and classic routes. We tick off the Mont Ventoux, Mortirolo, Alpe d'Huez and Angliru off, along with other places that actually belong on a bucket list. In this episode, we come to one of the places that most captures the imagination: Stilfersjoch, or 'The Stelvio'. Climbing the Stelvio is a true classic. Many of us have ridden it and may regret this choice. Others will feel like a hero of sorts once they get to the top. At least on the family birthday, this name does it justice. For our platform, explorer Djowin went up from Prato or Prad. The classic variant and therefore with a spot in this list. Read and enjoy!
25 long kilometres
25 kilometres of climbing and an altitude difference of a whopping 1846 metres. That's 25 long kilometres. For many cycling fans, this climb is high on the list and not without reason. The pink caravan of the Giro d'Italia crossed this mythical mountain 11 times. I'd love to take you to the top! Cycling the Stelvio from Prato is also a dream for me.
The Stelvio is not just any old climb. The 25 long kilometres have an average gradient of 7.4% with peaks of 12%. The last 15 kilometres are the steepest of this monster. The steepest part comes when you ride into the forest.
Text and photos: Djowin Meijerink (unless otherwise stated)
Starting early
7 a.m. The alarm clock rings at Trafoi campsite. After two weeks of cycling in Italy the queen's ride is on the agenda today. Today we cycle the legendary Stelvio from Prato! Whichever way you look at it, this pass inspires awe. So much so that I gave up on the beers the night before. After all, today is the day. After a good breakfast (in my case a bowl of cottage cheese, bread and a strong cup of local 'caffè'), we get on our bikes. After a good oiling yesterday, the bike is also ready for the big day.
Where we are still joking at the start, nervousness is noticeable at the beginning of the climb. Because let's face it: where I come from (the Sallandse Heuvelrug) we do have some altimeters, but there 300 metres is already quite a mountain stage.
Cramped legs
The previous day we climbed Montecampione, which still makes for some stiff legs. That this mountain is a bucket list item soon becomes clear. We overtake Italians, Swiss, Belgians and Spaniards. The motley crew of nationalities also take on this challenge on a motley collection of bikes. Some on mountain bikes from the year 1980 and others on the very latest Pinarello Dogma F12. All with the same goal in mind: to reach the top of the Stelvio. After three kilometres of climbing, I take the first sip from my water bottle. Immediately I think: do I have enough water with me? Two water bottles, a total of one litre for a ride of over two hours in the burning sun. Good thing we left those Bira Moretti´s behind yesterday.
Own pace up
We agree to ride up at our own pace and wait for each other at the summit. After all, less talking results in a lower heart rate. After the village of Trafoi, we arrive at the first hairpin bend. I don't like the number (48) written on the sign at all. For those in the know: there are still 47 to go. I have to swallow.
Fortunately, I am starting to get into my rhythm: the stiff legs and lazy sweat have gone. With a grimace that Thomas Voeckler would envy, I pass many cyclists. The reaction of some takes a while. If you are in the middle of a fierce effort you have to time it right. I never thought I would think about it: do you greet someone when breathing in or when breathing out? Life questions that do get answered during the 48 bends of the Stelvio.
Turn 24 and then through
In good shape, I steer through turn 24 and the landscape around me begins to change shape. The forest after Trafoi is behind me and to the left on the other side of the valley a giant glacier comes into my field of vision. At this point, I start to feel my legs less and euphoria takes over. That training through all weathers is finally bearing fruit. This is what you do it for. After a long false turn to the right, the top of the pass comes into view. A bizarre feeling creeps up on me. I feel like little David who had to fight the great Goliath. What a huge thing! Focused on applying the same amount of power every time I pedal, I try to enjoy the beautiful nature around me as much as possible. No need for a bike computer now. I don't have one with me either.
Gears on
The lowest gear is approaching and I really can't downshift now. With a 1×12 it's tight in the mountains anyway so I decide to slow down on the relatively flat sections. Another good drink and the last gel before I start the final with a gradient of almost nine per cent. After almost two hours on the bike, I have some left for a little acceleration. Against all (cycling) rules, I shift up and get out of the saddle. I am really soured and fortunately the top is already near. There I see my cycling buddy already enjoying a cold can of coke. I am there (right on time).
The view is insane and there are several tents to get something to eat and drink. You are surrounded by broad grins as everyone has made it to the top. It is also noticeable that everyone immediately dresses a bit warmer because even in summer, the way down is wonderfully fresh. After all, you are also at over 2,700 metres. The descent takes more than half an hour and you really have to be alert. A steering error there is fatal and this is also clearly signalled by signs. You are in top form yourself, but expect the same from your bike. Check your brakes and make sure everything is tight before you start the tour. If all that is in order, then the enjoyment can really begin.
Bormio or Prato
The Stelvio has two sides and the most classic side is the one from Prato (or Prad). However, many riders will choose Bormio for their basecamp. This gives a few more options to explore the area and also, among other things, to Livigno to go. But if you like to tick off your bucket list then cycling the Stelvio from Prato is the must-do.
This route is one of the best routes for cyclists in Italy
Like Alpe d'Huez, Mont Ventoux and also Angliru, the Stelvio is on many bucket lists and in top 5 climbs in the world. It hurts, it's long, but all 48 turns are more than worth it. Here's the classic route from Prato. You can also take the other way, but this is still the only real one.
