Many cyclists will not immediately mention Emilia-Romagna as a favourite destination. However, this region has a lot of cycling fun to offer - after all, it was Marco Pantani's training ground. Emilia Romagna is truly a cyclist's paradise. Traffic-free asphalt roads alternate with beautiful gravel lanes. Unlike, for example Tuscany there are still few foreign tourists and you still really imagine yourself in Italy. Local expert and organiser of cycling trips to Emilia Romagna, Johan van der Heijden, takes you on a scenic cycling tour in Emilia-Romagna and gives some valuable tips. Cycling in Emilia-Romagna should be something everyone should do.
Text and photos: Johan van der Heijden
Start in Faenza
This cycle route in Emilia Romagna starts in Faenza. The city is known for its colourful ceramics and is situated around two beautiful squares: Piazza del Popolo and Piazza della Libertà. After a delicious cappuccino and cornetto, we ride out of the city and head into the Apennines.
After more than 10 kilometres and a tough climb, we reach the castle of Monte Poggiolo. Here begins a nice 5-kilometre gravel stretch over a ridge. Both left and right you have the most beautiful views, so don't forget to stop every now and then.
Alternation between paved and unpaved
After this stretch, there is a few kilometres of asphalt before conquering the gravel climb of over 6 kilometres to the "Eromo di Monte Paolo". The "eromo" is the little church on the hilltop in honour of the hermit of Monte Paolo. It is a magnificent climb, starting with a very nice gravel strip through the forest. Only the last two kilometres the climb becomes viciously steep. Eventually you reach the "Eromo di Monte Paolo" and at the Eromo is a plaque with a prayer for the cyclist (preghiera del ciclista), asking the Lord to protect the cyclist on his journeys.
Gaining strength
There is also a fountain to fill your water bottle. After visiting the cave of the hermit of Monte Paolo, we descend to Dovadola. A nice place to stop and have something to eat.After Davadola comes the ascent of Monte Mirabello, the last 3 kilometres of which are really tough. At the summit, we arrive in Predappio Alta, where it is claimed you can eat the longest bruscetta in the world.
In search of the little general
We descend to Predappio, the birthplace of Benito Mussolini. He was also eventually given a tomb here, but we ignore it. We do drive to Benito Mussolini's summer house, called Rocca delle Camminate. We do have to conquer a tough climb for that, with no fewer than 13 'tornante', or hairpin bends. The summerhouse played a prominent role in World War II and many partisans were held prisoner here. It has since been restored and is used by the University of Bologna.
Back to bottom
After visiting the Rocca, we descend to Meldola and stop for a break on a terrace in Piazza Felice Orsini. By now we have returned to the foot of the Apennines. After our stop, we drive on to Fratta Terme, a thermal leaf resort whose glory days were still in the lira era.
A final climb to Bertinoro awaits us. This challenging climb is also included in the famous granfondo 'Nove Colli'. This steep climb takes us to Bertinoro's central square, Piazza della Liberta. There we have a fantastic view over the flat part of Emilia Romagna. We can place the bikes at the "Colonna della Anella". A column with twelve rings, each ring belonged to a family. The family's ring to which you tied your horse then had to offer you hospitality.
Golden location
Bertinoro stands for "must be drunk in gold" (Bere in oro). The wine from here is so good that it must be drunk from golden cups. At least that's what they think here. We enjoy, at least for a while, the view.
We then descend to Cesena, via a nice gravel road. In Cesena, we catch the train back to Faenza. The train connection between these two places is fine and for just a small fee your bike can come along.
Route:
Our tips:
- Combine your stay to Emilia Romagna with participation in the Nove Colli. This is one of the oldest and largest granfondos in the world. It takes place every year at the end of May. Nove Colli Home page | Official Site
- Start the day in Faenza with a caffè or cappuccino with freshly baked cake at Nove100 Caffe on Corso Mazzini 89a. A shop full of books, authentic typewriters, newspapers and art. NOVE100 (nove100faenza.it)
- "Casette Rio del Sol". A tented camp right outside Faenza with fresh juices, fruit, fruit cake and coffee.
- Bruschetteria Caffè Anni 30, Piazza Camillo Benso Conte di Cavour, 10, Predappio Alta, Emilia-Romagna. Open only from 3.30pm, but who wouldn't want to eat the longest bruschetta in the world.
- Rocca delle Camminate, Predappio. The summer house of Benito Mussolini, currently restored. It can be visited only on weekends. They have an interesting English-language video on the history of the house.
- Ca de Be stands for Casa da bere (house for drinking). Here they have the tastiest wines, but stop here for a piadina and enjoy the view from Bertinoro's balcony.
Train home
The ride ends in Cesena and it is easy to get back to Faenza by train. A Regionale Veloce goes every hour. Your bike can easily join you on this train and for a few euros you will be back in Faenza.
