Imagine a week of cycling and adventure in the heart of the Austrian Alps. From a comfortable chalet on top of a mountain, overlooking the mountain peaks with clouds in between. This was our trip to Brandnertal, where we went cycling from Landal Brandnertal and got to experience what it's like to stay in a mountain park as a cyclist. Spoiler: it's fantastic. But your legs are going to feel it. In this article, we take you through our days full of climbing, descending, gravelling, exploring and give you tips on how to set out on your own.
Text & Photos: Bente & Allard Sym
More about cycling in Austria? Cycling in Austria
The journey begins: From Innsbruck to Bludenz
We travel without a car, so we take the train from Innsbruck to Bludenz in Vorarlberg. A leisurely drive of less than two hours. Once we arrive, we first dive into the supermarket. On top of the mountain, at the Landal park, you won't find a fully-fledged supermarket: only a small shop near the reception with a limited assortment. So we make a quick stop at the Hofer (the Austrian Aldi) in the valley for dinner and some basic provisions for the next few days on the bike.
And then the adventure really begins: 600 altimeters in just eight kilometres, straight up - and that in the rain. The climb takes us through an almost jungle-like landscape: wet moss edges along the road, dramatic clouds hanging around the mountain peaks, and an overwhelming sense of nature all around us.
After an hour, we reach the Landal park. Soaking wet, but satisfied. How lovely it is to plop down in our comfortable cottage! Warm wooden accents, modern furnishings, soft beds, and as icing on the cake: a private infrared sauna. It feels like a luxury mountain hut, but without the sleeping bag and draughty door.
We end the day at restaurant Unicorn, in the middle of the Landal park. A cosy place where you can order traditional Austrian dishes - like Wiener Schnitzel, Kaiserschmarrn or Apfelstrudel - as well as international classics. We opt for a pizza, a curry, and for dessert: ice cream. Just what we need after such a first day.
Day 1 in Brandnertal: rolling roads
Our first day of cycling starts with rain, but the forecast is right: at eight o'clock in the morning it opens up. We roll down 600 metres from the Landal park to reach the Bäckerei Ruetz score a breakfast; highly recommended! Fresh sandwiches, good coffee (with free refill) and open every day. Even on Sundays and public holidays, as this is not standard in Austria.
We then make a lap of almost 80 kilometres and 1,700 altimeters. We cycle through the valley on rolling roads, stop in Feldkirch - a cosy border town between Austria and Switzerland - and enjoy the peace and quiet. On the way back to the park, it means that climb up again. Spicy, but with views of the mountains and the realisation that you've earned every metre yourself.
On arrival, after a short shower in the apartment, we decide to relax: indoors to the pool and then into the wellness where we enjoy the saunas. Then on the balcony we enjoy our home-cooked evening meal and relax in the evening as the last rays of the sun slowly disappear from the mountain peaks as well.
Day 2: Long climbs, mountain passes and sunshine
We wake up to the gentle sound of water, cowbells and birds. and on opening the curtains, we see the beautiful mountains, as there is a clear blue sky. A picture, this view! We start the day with coffee and a good breakfast on the balcony before getting ready for the cycling day. Well oiled up and in cool cycling clothes, as it will be 35 degrees today! We have mapped out a long route with a serious climb: 1200 metres up in one stretch to two mountain passes; the Faschinajoch and Furkajoch in the UNESCO Biosphere Reserve Großes Walsertal.
After breakfast, we roll into the valley on the beautiful descent with great views to Bludenz, stop at the supermarket there for the necessary snacks for the road and then start a climb you won't soon forget. Namely, we cycle around one big nature reserve. That means you actually have to cycle all the way around it to make a lap. There is no such thing as a shortcut. The pass goes up to 2000 metres and on the way we pass many nice restaurants, through endless hairpin bends, cows along the road and a mountain panorama similar to the Sierra Nevada, but greener and quieter. We stop shortly before the top of the first pass for an ice cream, to refill water and to cool off a little in the shade. Then we cycle on a beautiful rolling road, overlooking the no man's land. Here you can also hike beautifully!
Beautiful descent
After the long climb, we start a beautiful and long descent. Without pedalling, we constantly ride above 60 kilometres per hour. This descent also seems quite suitable to do as a climb, as the roads are a bit more in the forest and it is a quiet, narrow road. At the bottom of the descent, we cycle a pleasant slightly undulating stretch back to the familiar climb. The 600 metres at the end is very tough, but satisfied and content we end the day with over 100 km and 2500 altimeters. Back in the apartment, we had a nice meal and ate on the balcony again. Fortunately, it stays nice and cool inside, so we were able to sleep well afterwards.
Day 3: Gravel adventure
Gravel is on the agenda for today, as the Brandnertal is known as a mountain bike area, with trails, gondolas and a lively MTB atmosphere. We have mapped out a nice route that we dare to do with our 28 mm tyres. Although, of course, you have to love it. From the park today, we descend only 300 metres and turn onto a gravel path along a small river. This is a quiet, green route that cools down in the once again hot day. At Brand, the real mountain bike madness begins: a lift for mountain bikers and hikers, and us with our 'thin tyres' among the wide tyres. We get many surprised looks. The climb below the gondola is quiet and shady, but also challenging with loose stones and cows blocking the way and vying for attention - hello, Austria!
Fresh yoghurt
At the top of the steep climb, we eat fresh yoghurt at the mountain hut-farm and drink coffee, overlooking the valley. This is followed by a rolling gravel road further up to the real summit with spectacular views. We enjoy the view and then start a gravel descent. The first section has recently been renewed and is smooth and fast, so we can ride down with a lot of confidence and speed. Quite a bit lower down, however, it gets a bit rougher and more technical, as this has not (yet) been renewed.
After descending, we come to our last small climb of the day. Here we have to climb 450 metres to get back to the park from the other side via a plateau and short tarmac descent. It's nice to enter the Landal park from the other side like this!
In the end, we did a round trip of 40 kilometres and 1,600 altimeters and after returning, we enjoy the park and do some shopping in the small supermarket near the reception, as we did not pass a supermarket today (or any civilisation at all). Then we take another leisurely walk in and around the park before cooking, eating and relaxing.
Day 4: The Lünersee
On the last day, we opt for a bike & hike adventure. We go to the pearl of the Alps; the Lünersee, a quiet mountain/ reservoir at 2000 metres altitude. From the park, it's 20 kilometres of cycling with 800 altitude metres on a quiet road with beautiful views and at the top of the climb we lock our bikes, put on hiking clothes, and then start the hike of 300 altitude metres. This takes us a good half hour. Alternatively, a cable car goes for 15 euros (single) or 24 euros (return), so arriving at the top at the lake, many tourists walk.
Lünersee is a fairy tale: deep blue water surrounded by jagged peaks. We drink coffee at the restaurant and took a leisurely five-kilometre walk around the lake. Here and there we still have to go through some snow. It's not tough or difficult, but it is spectacular! After walking around the lake, we descend on the same path we already walked up. There, our bikes are still in the same place, we change, and cycle back to Brand. First we go over the nice descent from the climb we took earlier today, and then we only have to go up one more 300 metres to the park to pick up our stuff at the reception. Once we have packed everything up, we roll all the way down to Bludenz for the last time to catch the train back home.
If we take one thing away from this trip, it is how adventure and tranquillity can go very well together, especially especially if you sleep on top of a mountain!
Want to walk the hike? Then click on our route here
Brandnertal in Vorarlberg
Brandnertal is located in Vorarlberg - Austria's westernmost state. It borders Switzerland as well as Liechtenstein, and is relatively undiscovered by the Dutch compared to Tirol or Salzburg, for example. This is precisely why it is quieter and less touristy.
Why this valley is different
The Brandnertal is a so-called 'Sackgasse' - a dead-end valley. No through traffic, so silence. You can feel it: at night you only hear water, cow bells and birds here.
Same climb every day - but different
We rode the 600-metre climb back to the Landal park every day. But different each time: wet, dry, with evening sun, or in the shade. Sometimes tough, sometimes light. And always a reward at the top.
Gravel instead of asphalt
We discovered that you can do a surprising amount in this area over gravel. Even if you are used to asphalt, this is an ideal place to transition to flowy trails, shady forest paths and low traffic.
Landal Brandnertal as a cycling basecamp
Forget the mountain lodge, as the Landal park combines the comfort of a hotel with the freedom of a cottage. There is a swimming pool, wellness and you can cook for yourself (or eat out, or both).
What we learned from 4 days of cycling in the mountains
That rest is just as important as mileage. And that comfort and adventure need not be mutually exclusive, as long as you know where to go.
Practical tips for your Brandnertal adventure
Where to stay: Landal Brandnertal - luxury, quiet, bike-friendly, with swimming pool and sauna
Cycling options:
- Gravel, climbing routes, and tough descents
- Note: many mountain bike trails, less suitable for pure asphalt cyclists
Highlights:
- Lünersee (bike & hike!)
- Gravel
- UNESCO biosphere park: Faschina and Furkajoch
- Backerei Ruetz
- Mountain huts and farms along the way
- The tranquillity of the Landal Brandertal holiday park
Best time: Spring to autumn. Bear in mind changeable weather and snow (!)
Clothing and equipment: A windstopper/jacket is a must for the long downhills. Furthermore, bikepack bags are handy for carrying groceries from the valley to the park 600 metres higher up. A gravel bike or MTB comes into its own here, but road cyclists can also have a great time here.
Conclusion: An adventure that sticks
The Brandnertal is not a destination for mindless mileage, because here you have to climb, persevere, and enjoy nature. The contrast between luxury in the Landal park and the raw nature of the mountains makes it special. And those views? Unforgettable.
Want to discover a place where you have to earn every metre yourself, but are rewarded with silence, vistas and adventure? Then Brandnertal is your next destination.
Want to know more? Check out Landal Brandnertal and plan your own cycling adventure!
