It is late May and we are ready to leave for Bormio. We have been anxiously monitoring the weather reports from the Netherlands for the past few days. On the programme is a four-day bikepacking trip from Bormio, over the Giro roads, to Alta Badia in the Dolomites and back again. La Pedalata Lieve. Where Lieve stands for lightweight. That means: all the gear in a saddle bag, frame bag and a top tube for some bars, a power bank and finally a handlebar bag for other goodies like a camera and charger. That's it.
At home, the puzzling begins: what do I take and what do I leave at home? Mountain weather is unpredictable at this time. Cold and heat alternate at lightning speed. In the end, I don't take anything too much. But is it enough?
Text: Erik Doorenspleet / Amateurfietser.nl - photos: Adam Kolarski/Erik Doorenspleet
Saving weight is the golden tip
In Bormio, Daniel Schena (aka Stelvioman) of bikehotel Funivia Bormio and Klaus Isara of bikehotel Melodia del Bosco in Alta Badia are already ready to welcome us warmly. These men exude passion for cycling, the area and hospitality. They are our cycling guides for the next few days. The evening before departure, we get the briefing. What we suspected at home turns out to be true: the Gavia and the Stelvio disappear from the routes. Last week another metre of snow fell and these peaks are impassable. The fun is no less. We receive our bags and the packing begins. Saving weight is the gentlemen's advice. I go through my stuff again and decide I can leave an undershirt, some toiletries and my flip-flops behind. Time for a good night's sleep.
Rain pouring down
Day 1: Bormio - Malosco 137 km 2868 altimeters
The next morning I wake up slightly nervous, slide open the curtain and see a dark sky where the rain is pouring down. After a good and hearty breakfast and a final espresso, we leave around 10 o'clock in a motley crew of Italians, Swedes and Danes for our first stage of this four-day tour: from Bormio to Malosco. A stage of 137 km with 2868 altimeters. A solid start for a first day, especially with actually too few spring kilometres in the legs.
Vai vai
"Vai vai" is the starting signal of this cycling adventure. We spin around nicely on our way to Grossio for the first climb of the day: the Mortirolo. Mythical and terrifying at the same time. Fortunately, we take the "mild" side, but gradients between 7 to 12 per cent immediately make you feel again that this is serious mountain work. Waiting for each other is out of the question, with everyone riding uphill at their own pace in the pouring rain. As an avid rain rider, I enjoy it: the temperature is good and my investment in "expensive" rain gear pays off immediately. Riding in the low-hanging rain clouds also gives the climb something mystical. Like being alone in the world. I digest the first climb well and descend with good morale for the climb from Ponte di Legno to Passo Tonale.
Cold at the top of Passo Tonale
We are practically alone on the road at this time of year. I am enjoying nature and the mountains despite the pouring rain. Left and right lie the last remnants of snow from the winter sports season and game graze at the forest edges. It is cold at the top of Passo Tonale. Shivering, we seek the warmth of the local inn. The homemade lasagne tastes excellent and helps to get warm again. After this well-earned break, we descend. We see the first rays of sunlight pierce through the cloud cover, will it be all right today after all? One last mild climb to Malosco, our overnight stop today. These kilometres too are beautiful, past endless rows of fruit trees against the backdrop of snow-capped peaks. Tired, exhausted but satisfied, we settle down for a well-deserved dinner following a traditional (but secret) Italian recipe.
The Italian betuwe
Day 2 - Malosco to Alta Badia - 111 km, 2260 altimeters
A greater contrast with yesterday is hardly possible. A clear blue sky and a pleasant morning sun immediately warm the muscles. The first climb is the Passo Mendola from Fondo. From this side it goes up gradually and is not tough. On the descent to Caldaro, I see how cycling-crazy Italy is. Apparently this is an ideal Sunday climb for Italians living in the region. Soaked and tight in massage oil, a stream of cycling enthusiasts steadily cycle up. Sometimes on a classic Bianchi but mostly on beautiful Italian Carbon. Style and design is appreciated.
Using a network of cycle paths, we whizz between vines and fruit trees to Bolzano. Here it is warm, almost summery. The ideal place for a welcome coffee stop with homemade tiramisu on the terrace overlooking the Duomo. La dolce vita certainly applies here.
Energy boost in Bolzano
With this energy boost, we ride along an old but now asphalted railway line towards the Dolomites. I calculate that we will have to climb at least 65 kilometres. From false flat to a maximum of 9 to 10%. It is not a punishment. Slowly, the unique mountain scenery of the Dolomites unfolds. After each turn, the Sassolungo gets bigger and bigger. This majestic mountain peaks above everything else. In Ortisei, I fill my water bottle at the village fountain for today's final climbing kilometres. On to the top of the Passo di Gardena. It is my first time in the Dolomites and I thoroughly enjoy the breathtaking scenery. Steep rock faces between which the road winds slowly upwards. It leaves me speechless.
At the summit, I take a moment to take in the scenery and am sure this will not be the last time I cycle here. After a delightful descent to Alta Badia, we roll into bikehotel Melodia del Bosco run by owner and tour guide Klaus. From my super-deluxe room, in a well-earned hot bath, I enjoy a setting sun that casts a distinctive orange-red glow on the Dolomites. What more could you want?
Through the Middle Ages
Day 3 - Alta Badia to Merano - 103 km, 1240 altitude metres
After the delicious cycling breakfast, I tie the bags back on the bike. This is getting easier and easier for me. I realise that with quite little luggage - I think less than 6 kilos in total - you can cycle La Pedalata in almost all weather conditions. Provided you have the luxury of staying overnight in hotels. Of course, the laundry service in the bike hotels also helps with this. So you put on a freshly washed set of cycling clothes every day.
Once again the Passo Gardena
"Fresh and fruity" we once again climb the Passo di Gardena, but this time from Corvara. Immediately the toughest climb: 8.8 kilometres long at an average of 6.7%. That does hurt for a moment so early in the day. It is wonderfully quiet in early June. In the summer months, the place seems to be teeming with motorbikes, vintage cars and other holidaymakers polluting the air. I enjoy the rapidly succeeding hairpin bends of this mountain pass, slowly watching the valley of Alta Badia and Corvara disappear below me. The descent to Selva di Val Gardena lends itself to a lightning-fast descent. I choose to regularly squeeze my brakes and take the speed out for a while to still enjoy the Sella Massif.
Passo pinei
From Ortisei, we climb the Passo Pinei. Short but sweet, shall I say. From kilometre two, the percentages on my Garmin regularly rise above 10%. Fortunately, this is pretty much the last tough part of the day. Kastelruth - or Castelrotto in Italian - is not to be missed. This medieval village is beautifully set against the slope of the Seismer Alm. We park our bikes like knights against a castle wall and enjoy a well-earned espresso in the sun.
From Kastelruth, it's mainly downhill to Merano. After all that climbing over the past few days, certainly not a punishment. I am also surprised by the cycle path network on this stage. Almost everywhere there are good cycle paths through the valleys and centuries-old villages are connected by asphalted quiet country roads. Via a pretty path along the Adige river, we reach Merano. As in Bolzano, you can also see the South Tyrolean and Italian influences here. By the river that flows right through the town, I enjoy a well-earned ice cream sundae.
Queen's ride
Day 4 - The King's Ride from Merano to Bormio - 148 km, 2947 altimeters
Unfortunately, the Stelvio Pass from Prato is still closed due to excessive snowfall and avalanche danger. Normally the highlight of the bikepacking trip. Fortunately, I have cycled the Stelvio several times before. In fact, I think the "diversions" is just as good an idea. That way you see something different again. Incidentally, there is 120 kilometres of climbing on the programme today... and while not always steep, it is still serious leg work on day four....
Through Switzerland to Livigno
From Prato, we take the road to Mustair, the Swiss section of the route. The Val di Mustair is beautiful. Now that the snow has disappeared, spring is budding. Fragrant fields of flowers on both sides of the road tantalise the senses for once with something different from the wonderfully fragrant Italian food we were allowed to sample everywhere. At five per cent uphill, the Ofen Pass goes surprisingly well for me at first. I momentarily forget the many altitude metres I already have in my legs. Until at kilometre eight the percentages climb to 7 to 8% again. I decide to ride my own pace and enjoy yet another beautiful landscape. At least that eases the pain a little.
Once at the top, there is a wonderfully clear descent over billiard-top tarmac to the tunnel towards Livigno. The Munt la Schera tunnel is a one-way tunnel between Switzerland and Italy. Cycling through the tunnel is not allowed, but fortunately transport has been arranged. The bikes go on a special bike trailer, I myself get into the van and after almost four kilometres we are back in Italy.
Head over head
We then ride head over head through the semi-open tunnel along Lake Livigno. On to the final climbs of the day: Passo d'Eira and Passo Foscagno. The views of the still snow-covered peaks and glaciers never bore me. Then, when I also see frolicking marmots running along on the final climb, my La Pedalata Dear experience is complete.
One last descent. I catch a glimpse of the hotel where Annemiek van Vleuten laid the foundation for her many victories. On to Bormio. We finish in Bormio's rustic and medieval market square and toast our four-day luxury bikepack adventure with a gallon of beer. La Pedalata Lieve? La dolce vita!
Practical
La Pedalata is an initiative of Daniel Schena of Bikehotel Funivia in Bormio and Klaus Isara of Bikehotel Melodia del Bosco in Alta Badia. Although this is a four-day trip, an extension of several days is definitely recommended. An extra day or two in Bormio and Alta Badia additional booking is well worthwhile. This allows you to build in a possible rest day or do the other nice climbs in from both pitches. Slightly shorter stages and an extra stopover makes it accessible to a wider cycling audience. Excellent bikes can be hired on site. On request, there are also Miss Grape bikepack bags available. In the Netherlands, Amateur cyclist.co.uk offer this trip as a tailor-made trip for individuals and groups.
