Croatia is gaining popularity as a cycling destination, especially along the Adriatic coast. We previously wrote about beautiful routes in Istria, which you will find in this article. Here in Croatia, you will find a bin of culture, beautiful landscapes and culinary specialities. Did you know that this country has no fewer than 1,185! islands? In four days, Lotte Seppenwoolde explored the Dalmatian islands of Hvar and Brač. Cycling in Croatia is highly recommended! Check her report for tips to discover this cycling region.
Text: Lotte Seppenwoolde - Photos: Lotte Seppenwoolde
Reception in Split
I arrive at Split airport around noon. A taxi takes me to a restaurant in the city centre, where some of the group and our guide Dino are already settled. In the end, the group will consist of nine people. After a sumptuous lunch, there is time for a short walk. The weather is not really with us yet. So far, it is cloudy and every now and then I feel a splash of rain. Windfall: it is warm, though. From the viewpoint, I look out over the city and the clear blue sea. What a beautiful picture!
Culture in Hvar town
The catamaran takes us to the island of Hvar in an hour. Once we arrive, we are given a short tour. This island is known for its lavender fields and many cultural sights. From the Franciscan monastery you have a great view over the bay. Then we walk a little further. On the main town square, you will find the Cathedral of St Stephen and the Loggia, among others. We also go inside Europe's oldest public theatre, which is now back in use. Going deeper into the city, you will find all kinds of picturesque alleys. There is no shortage of restaurants. Dalmatian cuisine is Mediterranean. Olive oil and spices are added to many dishes. After dinner, we can settle down at Hotel Amfora, near a secluded bay.
Time to go cycling!
The next morning, two local guides from Natural Hvar Tours are waiting for us in Brusje to cycle us around the island. To my great surprise, the sun is shining brightly. That was not predicted. Today's tour has Jelsa as its destination and on the way we will pass Velo Grablje, Stari Grad, Dol, Verbanj and Vrboska. First of all, we cycle towards Velo Grablje. Here you climb uphill relatively easily. From the paved roads you have a nice view of the mountainous landscape. At one point you come across a little chapel, the St. Rock Lookout. From here, you can choose to cycle a bit on Napoleon's Road. This path runs between Hvar and Stari Grad and is 2.60 metres wide. We take the main road and descend towards Stari Grad: Croatia's oldest town. Here we take a look at Tvrdalj Castle. In the 16e century, this was the summer residence of poet Petar Hektorović.
Wine not?
We take our time for lunch at Konoba Kokot in Dol. An atmospheric place with local food, such as homemade goat cheese. Then it's time to get back on the bike. This turns out to be short-lived. After ten minutes, we stop at the house of one of the cycling guides for a tasting. In a cave-like room, we are offered several types of wine and traditional gingerbread from Stari Grad. Since 2008, the Stari Grad plain, on which mainly grapes and olives are grown, has been a UNESCO World Heritage Site. Our route traverses this unique landscape. In the summer season, this will be an even more beautiful sight.
The last mile
At the end of the route, we cycle on a flat stretch along the coast. Here you will find beautiful beaches and little harbours. Finally, we arrive in Jelsa, a real cultural hotspot. In the end, we have about 34 kilometres on the counter. All in all, this cycle route is quite doable, as most of it is downhill. Tomorrow we will leave for Brač, the largest island in the Dalmatia region.
Cycling in Croatia: island hopping from Hvar to Brač
After breakfast, it's time to take the boat to the island of Brač. Within 20 minutes we are in Bol, the island's oldest town. Brač is known for its white stone and Zlatni Rat beach. You can also find the Vidova Gora, a 778-metre-high mountain. This mountain is easy to reach from our starting point in Bol. I am lucky again, as the sun is shining brightly. Today, together with a guide from Big Blue Sport, we cycle to Vidova Gora (25 km) and Donji Humac (12 km). After lunch, we continue our way and finish in Supetar (8 km).
Zlatni Rat
We first cycle past Croatia's most famous beach: Zlatni Rat (Golden Horn). The path towards it is fairly flat. This impressive beach has a special shape and is surrounded by the clear blue sea. One of the reasons why you should definitely take a look here.
Gravelicious
At one point, we brave some cool gravel roads full of stones and pebbles. A nice challenge for the gravel lovers among us. The path undulates up and down for about five kilometres. Meanwhile, enjoy the amazing views.
Vidova Gora (778 metres)
Then the real work begins, the tough climb to Vidova Gora. Here you will encounter challenging climbs over smooth asphalt. Along the way, we encounter a number of beautiful curves, each offering a different view of the impressive landscape. At the end, we cycle a bit through wooded areas, before arriving at the summit. From there, you look out over the island and see Zlatni Rat, among others.
Stop... and through
After a nice descent, it was time for lunch at Konoba Kopačina in Donji Humac. Here I ate delicious grilled lamb. This is pretty much on the menu in every konoba (Croatian for tavern), but this place is really famous for it. You can taste that. With our bellies full, we cycle the last stretch down towards Supetar. There we spend the next night at the SENTIDO Kaktus Resort, where you can relax by the pool with a nice cocktail after a long day of cycling. Over dinner on the last evening, we look back on a great time together and share our experiences of the wonderful bike rides on the islands of Hvar and Brač.
Palace of Diocletian
Early in the morning, we take the ferry from Supetar to Split. It's a bit cloudier again, but dry. After three quarters of an hour, we arrive in the port city. Split is Croatia's second-largest city. Here you will find plenty of atmosphere and cultural sights. We visit Diocletian's Palace, where guide Dino tells us interesting facts about the history of the palace and Split. Afterwards, unfortunately, it is already time to head home. What a beautiful cycling destination this was. I definitely hope to come back here again!
Staying overnight and eating out on the island of Hvar
- At the Amfora Hotel in Hvar, there is the possibility of renting bicycles. You can leave your belongings safely at the luggage depot. This luxury hotel with (private) beach is a good base for your cycling adventure.
- Do you choose fish or do you prefer meat? Everything is possible at Konoba Kokot in Dol. Enjoy Mediterranean cuisine and a nice liqueur or house wine during or after your bike ride.
Staying overnight and eating out on Bra Islandč
- Staying on the island of Brač? You can at the SENTINO Kaktus Resort in Supetar. This hotel has no less than three swimming pools as well as a public pebble beach within walking distance.
- Konoba Kopačina is known for its lamb specialities, but other meat and fish dishes are also available here.
- Port city Supetar is a tourist attraction. Not surprisingly, you can eat super tasty fish at Konoba Vinotoka.
