To my left, the field is filled with beautiful yellow. As far as I can see, I can see the flowers that will later be made into rapeseed oil. The flower fields are in bloom from mid-April to mid-May. It is a perfect backdrop for a cycling trip with the theme Detour Denmark. Because the Tour de France will start in Denmark in 2022 and everyone should know about it. Because this is not just any event for the country with 5.8 million inhabitants (and as many cyclists). This is perhaps the event of the past 20 years. It dwarfs the EURO 2020 matches, which also took place in Copenhagen in 2021. It is a huge experience. The whole country is involved. That makes this Grand Départ unique. We take you on the trail of the Tour, on Detour through Denmark. (Part 2 find it here!)
Text: Sander Kolsloot Photos: Camilla Hylleberg/VisitDenmark, The Cycling Journalist, Sander Kolsloot
Copenhagen
As I try to artfully wheelie for the photo, I almost forget that I am on the cobblestones in front of the royal palace. This is where father, mother and son live close together. Christiansborg, where the riders will bounce over the small stones. As one of my travelling companions jokingly remarks: 'then you go to live on your own and you still live next door to your mother'. Fair point.
The city itself does not really lend itself to road cycling, although the infrastructure is very good. The most beautiful routes, like anywhere in the world, can be found as soon as you leave the city. The touring cyclists are given ample space and on the flat course, which among other things takes you past the famous Lorelei, the big-bike men will have the advantage. If you do want to explore the city, arrange a city bike and cycle over the various beautiful bridges and along the water. With a little imagination, it will remind you of the Netherlands. When you've finished your ride, the best thing to do is head to Tivoli go to have fun there. A beautiful, old amusement park with a relaxed atmosphere.
Mayoral Approval
The mayor of Copenhagen made special time on this Sunday to welcome us. That the Tour start in Copenhagen is going to be impactful, everyone seems to take that for granted. The mayor herself is also an active cyclist. Her predecessor helped bring the Tour to Denmark, but she is certainly going to make sure the legacy is guaranteed. Her favourite cycling area? The stretch south-west of the city, towards the starting town of Roskilde. Let's just include that in the route.
Danish Zealand
As we leave the city, the support vehicle supporting us is soon out of sight. The main reason? The route takes us on beautifully paved cycle paths, along the water and soon through fields on the outskirts of the city of Copenhagen. Along Brøndby beach towards the border with Sjaelland, or Zeeland. On to the yellow rapeseed fields, to the typical churches and colourful half-timbered houses that set Denmark apart from the rest of the world. In Kildebrønde, you'll find one such beautiful picture. Time for a stop, a pee and a photo before continuing on towards Roskilde, where the mayor welcomes us with open arms.
Viking ships and music festivals
Tomas Breddam is a civic leader, as you would imagine a civic leader to be. Not too formal, almost cuddly, but he knows what he is talking about. Against the backdrop of the Viking Ship Museum he does the story of the tour start. That story is mainly the logistical challenge for a town like Roskilde. 48,000 inhabitants, hosting 130,000 music lovers for the pop festival, which overlaps with the start of Le Grande Boucle. 'I hope people will stay for the music after the Tour too'. Promotional an ideal picture, logistically a challenge the local triangle is still having headaches about. The fact that the police are conducting a drill at the same time as our visit shows that Denmark does not want to leave anything to chance. They are ready. In all areas.
In the wake of the Tour to the west
As the sun shows its best side, we prepare for the trip towards Rosnæs terminus. What many do not yet know is that a challenging afternoon in the wake of the Tour lies ahead. Where the region seems flat at first, an undulating landscape awaits us due to the action of sea, earth and weather. Nothing like a flat coastline or straight, raked roads. From Roskilde, it is actually straight uphill and downhill. The first 30 kilometres of the second Tour stage, nicely flanked by yellow bikes in all the villages, are actually not one metre flat. Only from the coastal strip near Holbæk is there a nice flat stretch, with a lovely, typically wide tour road. For our route, we take the narrow path tight along the water. Too narrow for a peloton, but a must-do for our little group.
Round the Côte de Asnæs
A start abroad always involves a diligent search for a nice hill to hand out the first mountain points. You usually see the lesser gods or unknown helpers in a team sprinting along. A day's mountain jersey is one to remember. Not to mention the euros and attention for the sponsors. In the first stage, the flat time trial, there was no climb at all. So it all comes down to the second stage. The centre of gravity is around Asnæs. The picturesque village with almost 3,000 inhabitants has a few hills that would not be out of place in an Ardennes classic.
Côte de Asnæs Indelukke
Although our original plan was to take in the whole hill section, we end up riding only the Côte de Asnæs Indelukke. The descent to the base is fast and the turn to the foot is sharp. Here, the contenders for the overall win should be well on their qui vive. The climb itself looks like a ski jump. 1100 metres long, with an average percentage of 5.8. The devil is in the tail where the maximum is 11%. This is where Bo Hamburger shows why he turned pro. Bo is a former rider at TVM and joined our group from Roskilde. He puts us all on it. At the top, the tour riders turn left, we turn right, through the country towards our finish.
Côte de Hørve Stræde
Where we descended, the riders ride up in the second stage. So not in the wake of the Tour for a while. Did I mention this was a steep hill? Only 700 metres in length, this will give the pros no fearful sweat. The 7.7 per cent average and 14 per cent maximum gradient are right up one MvdP's alley. If he stands short after the time trial, who knows?
Côte de Kårup Strandbakke
We do not ride this hill in our route but there is also a vicious stretch just before this climb, the Disbjergvej. Each time here you ride up short vicious bits. The Côte de Karup Strandbakke is also short again, 1.3 kilometres long and again picks up 7 per cent average, with a spike to double digits in the first 100 metres. Not too shabby. We watch this ordeal from the bumpy old city bus waiting for us in Ordrup. A present from the local tourist office. The link to the Tour I'm still searching for, but it's enervating, to say the least.
Beach and wine
On the second day of the grand dékart, many a rider will remember little of Kalundborg, let alone Rosnæs. After all, it is full speed and stretched trot towards the day's dessert, the magnificent Storebæltsbroen. For anyone who doesn't have to worry about timetables and possible fans on this iconic bridge, a stopover and overnight stay at the beautiful Beach hotel Rosnaes highly recommended. The location is straight out of a lonely planet. The cuisine is of high quality and the matching wines come partly from the adjacent STUB vineyards. The tasting we are served there is delicious. The story provides a wonderful frame for our evening and a nice ending to the first part of this trip.
Routes
Below you will find the route of the complete trip, including the first stages, as described above. You'll also find more route inspiration, of course, if you check out our collections! Also follow us on instagram (@cyclingdestination.cc) for more info and the latest updates.
