Portugal is a popular holiday destination, but for cycling trips it is not yet at the top of the list for many. For me, it is! My mother moved to Portugal and so we -my wife Kirsten and I- have cycled quite a few kilometres in Portugal in recent years. The combination of the beautiful weather, challenging climbs, the hospitable people, and the friendly prices on the terraces makes it a fantastic experience every time. Until now, we limited ourselves mainly to the eastern Algarve, but after a few pleasant evenings with cycling friend Marieke, a new plan has now emerged. We are going to cycle from Lisbon back to the Algarve! In this article, we'll take you along for the ride. To really get you excited about cycling in Portugal yourself, I've also included some extra background information in the article. Enjoy!
Text and photos: Dale Boom
Cycling in Portugal: the best period
The first time we went cycling in Portugal we did so in the summer holidays. With hindsight, I can say with absolute certainty that this is not the best plan: it can get very hot. Nowadays, I always plan our trips between October and May. It is generally fine weather for cycling then.
Cycling in Portugal: road quality
The quality of roads in Portugal varies enormously, from slick manicured go-kart tracks to roads where the potholes make you unable to see the tarmac. Are you taking your own bike? Then choose a sturdy tyre. Are you going to ride on gravel? Then bear in mind that these are not the manicured forest and heath paths of the Netherlands. By the way, they are plentiful!
Cycling in Portugal: the facilities
On our normal rounds, we like to cycle inland. Head north from the coast for just under an hour and it soon becomes very quiet and deserted. So take plenty of water and food with you, and make sure you are self-reliant in case of a breakdown. There are areas where there are few shops and cafes (or villages at all). It can also be useful to keep an eye on local holidays, so you don't plan a monster trip on a day when everything is closed.
Important days off in Portugal:
- Freedom Day - 25 April
- Labour Day - 1 May
- Easter/Ascension
- Day of Portugal - June 10
- St Anthony's Day - June 13
- Assumption of Mary - Aug 15 - FREE DAY FOR ALL OF PORTUGAL
- Republic Day - 5 October - shops do open
- All Saints' Day - 1 November - shops do open
- Restoration of Independence - December 1
Lisbon Algarve: the plan
OK, so a few months ago, an idea to cycle from Lisbon to the Algarve was born. Slowly, something of a concrete plan even emerged. We built a route that follows the coastline, with Cape Sao Vincente -the most south-westerly point of continental Europe- still to come. In total, it is just under 500 kilometres, mostly on asphalt. We plan to do it in four stages, staying overnight in Airbnb's. We will take our own bikes, which will be brought to Portugal by a carrier: a Koga Colmaro Allroad, a Focus Atlas, and my old Stevens Vapor. Sturdy bikes that can take a beating. All three are fitted with Continental Grand Prix 4 Seasons in 32mm, a tyre that gives confidence on fast descents but also stands its ground on a gravel path. To Lisbon, we go by train.
Stage 1: Into (and out of) the city
After a few days of acclimatisation, it is finally here: our adventure is about to begin! We have to get up early to catch the train. This leaves in Faro, which is about 20 kilometres of cycling for us. Once we arrive at the station, the train is already waiting. We booked the tickets online a few days ago. You can tick here that you are bringing a bike. This is free of charge, but seats are limited. You are assigned a fixed seat. Once we have found our seat, everything falls into place. There are two hooks per carriage to hang the bike on, and the seats you are allocated are directly in front of them. Well organised!
The train journey to Lisbon takes three and a half hours. It is a beautiful ride, but the most beautiful sight is when we cross the Tagus River and Lisbon appears before us. Magnificent! We get off at Oriente station, the largest station in the city. We booked an Airbnb in Setubal. The shortest route is 50km, our route 85.
Hectic all around the city
Leaving Lisbon comes with the hustle and bustle that comes with a big city. It is just under nine kilometres to the ferry that will take us back across the Tagus (there is no possibility of doing this via a bridge at all). Although we have been on the road for hours by now, on the other side it feels like our trip is really starting.
From Almada onwards
Once we leave the town of Almada, we soon find ourselves on the Costa da Caparica, a popular holiday area - but empty and quiet in the post-season. Campsites, cottages and hotels separate our path from the ocean, so unfortunately we don't see them yet. It may not be the most inspiring part of our route, but good: we are on our way! At least... after barely forty kilometres, we suddenly hear a loud tick. Immediately it is clear what it is. A spoke has burst in Kirsten's rear wheel, and it is bent to the point where it is impossible to ride. Luckily, we are still in urban areas! Soon we find a good bike repair shop, less than four kilometres away. Lucky break. We arrange an Uber for the unlucky guy, and we quickly get on our bikes. Luckily, the bike mechanic knows his stuff: we eat a tosti and pastel de nata in the neighbouring pastelaria, he provides a rideable wheel. Super!
Adjust and move on again
Since the above incident did take some time, we cut the route short. Breakdowns on the road, switching gears, changing plans and routes: it's all part of the game. As a result, we do drive a bit along the main road instead of the scenic route we had planned. However, the last 30 kilometres make up for everything. We see beautiful vineyards and drive through greenery. The last stretch towards Setubal is even more impressive. We ride along the waterfront on a road that -with some imagination- could well have featured in a Portuguese version of Milan-San Remo. We only have to drive a few kilometres through town before we find our accommodation; a comfortable flat overlooking the harbour and bay. Once showered and changed, we grab a small terrace, order a pizza, and then quickly go to bed. It was a long day!
Stage 2: Rice fields and lobsters
Today we have just under 130 kilometres on our schedule. The first eight are covered on a ferry, which leaves a few hundred metres from our little flat. Just a quiet wake-up, a good start to the day! We sail towards Tróia, an elongated peninsula with beaches, surf schools and holiday resorts. Cycling through the dunes here is beautiful. After 15 kilometres, we turn off the road towards a gravel path surrounded by rice fields. A new, and special experience, especially with the wildly gesticulating lobsters crossing the path!
Elongated roads towards Sines
After the rice fields, we continue on long-drawn roads towards Sines. We stop briefly at the fort for some photos. This is followed by a gorgeous stretch along the ocean, with surfers in the water braving the waves. After about ten kilometres, we have to turn off again. It must surely be possible to take in more of these stretches, but on real gravel tyres, with fewer daily kilometres. Nevertheless, the route we are following now is definitely not a punishment! And then there is our accommodation: a house overlooking the cliffs, with a large swimming pool and no other guests around us. Wow!
