The October sun shines in all its glory. The rolling hills are painted in a green and yellow palette. The trees in the forests are slowly starting to show their autumn colors. In this beautiful setting, we are allowed to enjoy ourselves for two days. On invitation from the Luxembourg Tourism Office And in collaboration with our partner Etxeondo, we’re heading into the hills. Two beautiful routes, both starting from a shop. For today, Ostergaard’s Bike Shop is our starting point, where Jan Ostergaard has been running the shop for 21 years.
Don’t let Luxembourg fool you
As I look at the Wahoo, I see a graph with a climb. The graph starts green, then it quickly goes to yellow, and then it turns red. On the overview graph, it stays red, but on the ‘percentage’ box I see some shocking numbers. Rapidly, the meter climbs to double digits, and I really see double when I see the first number in a two. It eventually stalls at 22 percent. Two-and-twentieth. If I had only looked at the graph, I wouldn’t have been shocked. In front of and behind me, I see people barreling down the road. This is Luxembourg In a nutshell. Beautiful fields that suddenly present an Ardennes climb on a corner. Just four and a half hours drive from Utrecht, this is an often-forgotten gem. Great for a nice weekend of cycling with friends or girlfriends.
Luxembourg in a nutshell: tight bike paths
One thing you have to remember when you think of Luxembourg: infrastructure. Luxembourg is well-organized and for the lion’s share of the time you drive on well-maintained roads and cycle paths. Yes, indeed, cycle paths. There are so-called ‘pistes cyclables’ that run through the Grand Duchy. Free of traffic, no speeding maniacs, but enjoying two wheels. There is one slightly zealous official who sometimes has a fence drawn halfway on the path, but when you look at it, you see him coming and you can get well around him. Apparently it’s meant to get the speed out of you, but that doesn’t really add much. It sometimes causes confusion.
From steep to spiky in a fall dress
Luxembourg is sometimes very smooth and flat. However, in general it is a mix of steep climbs that make the Flemish classics pale in comparison. In fact, we drive over stretches with real hairpin bends and for a moment it seems as if we are 300 kilometers further south, in the middle of the mountain range. That is not true at all. This is truly Luxembourg and I keep repeating it: it is only four and a half hours from Utrecht. You are there in no time. The variety makes it possible for every cyclist, from beginner to trained professional, to create a route that suits them to satisfaction. That is also Luxembourg in a nutshell, with variation and therefore good for everyone.
Through the tunnel and over the bridge
Our route today counts almost 1400 meters of elevation gain and that is a real challenge over a distance of over 80 kilometers. But as mentioned, you can handle it just fine, even if you haven’t been cycling for a long time. Just keep in mind that you choose a resistance that is as light as possible. Then you will always climb higher. You can also adjust the route we rode a little and it will be a maximum of fun for everyone. We are still pleasantly surprised by the route when we get to cycle over a bridge or through an old railway tunnel. It yields beautiful pictures and driving in such a tunnel is always something special. By being elevated for a moment, you also get to climb up again a little towards the hill, with a beautiful view as a reward.
What to pack?
When you descend into the Grand Duchy, you should think carefully about what you put in your bag. The green surroundings betray a lot of rainfall throughout the year. In summer it can get really hot and in winter cool enough for winter gloves. Snow is no exception. We were there in autumn and we were lucky with the sun. If you stand still in the sun, short sleeves are nice enough. With a jacket or a vest, that’s plenty to think about. Today we rode with the Orhi pants, with a long Alde shirt and finally a Busti vest. That was perfect. Always check our Packing list, What you really need to take with you on a trip.
Day's route
The route starts and ends at Ostergaard’s BikeShop. What a nice start and friendly welcome from Deens former MTB champion Jan Ostergaard. He has owned the shop here for 21 years and it’s a pleasure to start in this bike haven. The route is perfect for the road bike with its tight asphalt. There is a
Stay
Since we are staying in Luxembourg for two days, we are also allowed to stay one more night. The beautiful Hotel Martha in Guddesch is our place to be!
Cycling holiday in Luxembourg day 2: happy birthday Ruben!
When you turn 28, you deserve a treat, right? In the case of Ruben, who celebrated his 28th birthday in beautiful Luxembourg, we have reversed the roles. The treat was a beautiful ride through the Luxembourgish countryside, with start and finish at Andy Schleck’s impressive shop! At least, the plan was to make it a complete celebration. But as with so many plans, execution is not always what it seems. How did it turn out? We take you on a journey through castles and Luxembourgish hills. A cycling holiday in Luxembourg should be high on your bucket list.
Bike Hall of Fame Schleck
The wide door to Andy Schleck Cycles’ shop swings open. Shop manager Denis greets us with a smile. We are led towards the back of the shop, where Benoit warmly welcomes us. My eyes wander to the collection of jerseys on the wall. Among others, Andy’s white jersey and Fabio Cancellara’s yellow jersey adorn the interior of the shop. It is absolutely a feast to be here today, as not only Ruben, but also Benoit is celebrating his birthday. Cake, croissants and chocolate biscuits are on the menu, and with a delicious espresso it is complete. Could a day start better? I am drawn to a display case in the middle of the shop, where Andy’s old bikes are displayed. Brilliant cycling history and that just south of the city of Luxembourg.
Unfortunate
Back in time again. Andy Schleck is perhaps Luxembourg’s most famous athlete. He wore the yellow jersey in the Tour de France for several days in 2011 and, together with his brother Fränk, he decorated the podium of that Tour. In those years, they brought color to the peloton, alongside the gray Cadel Evans and the rugged Alberto Contador. As early as 2008, he won the white jersey in the Tour, but in 2014 he decided to end his career. Like many former pros, he started a shop in Hesperange, a few kilometers outside Luxembourg City. For this trip, we agreed to meet at the shop. A cherry on top of the birthday cake. In the end, it turned out to be sour grapes because on the weekend before our trip, we received the message: ‘Andy has broken his leg and is in the hospital.’ They say that’s acceptance and adaptation. Was this a harbinger of this trip? Who knows. We will definitely return again.
Through tunnels along castles
Luxembourg is a grand duchy. The Duke and Duchess of Luxembourg can (with a little effort) still be seen in real life. Henri is currently the duke of this country, which is the third smallest in the world (after Malta and Vatican City). Luxembourg is also known for its castles. Don't expect big chateaux in the style of Louis the 14th or the 16th, but rather castles that exude atmosphere and history. On our route we encounter quite a few of them. Interestingly, we also see a lot of beautiful viaducts. Old bridges, new overpasses. The ratio of beautiful viaducts to castles is almost 1:1. This is unusual for a country that is not internationally renowned for its architecture or infrastructure. We enjoy it no less. We are also staying in a beautiful hotel: Hotel Martha in Mersch
Bloom
Coffee and cycling are one. If you are in Luxembourg anyway, you better go for good coffee. After being spoiled already by Andy Schleck, it was an absolute must to go to Café de la Ville in Luxembourg-Stad. Bloom Specialty Coffee To stop. Ruben celebrated his birthday and that should be celebrated with good coffee and cake. The stories beforehand were of such a nature that the expectations were high. Frankly: it didn’t disappoint. The only point was the receipt. The big city expansion has also landed here. But for good coffee and a decent piece of cake, I pay a little more than average.
Autumn colors are in fashion
Back to the bike. Because on our first day we were already surprised by the beautiful surroundings and the beautiful colors. The day began gray today, cool, and that meant especially warmer outfits for most of us. Gradually, the air began to open up. With that, the beautiful autumn colors came back to life. Even while riding along the river, it’s a fairytale-like setting. The steep climbs are the icing on the cake of a cycling holiday in Luxembourg.
Planning and execution
That not everything is rosy comes to the fore in this trip. So first we hear about Andy’s broken leg. Then we drive on Day 1 off at Ostergaard When Wouter gets his car into trouble. A screeching noise indicates a problem in the Skoda. A tense game of interest ensues between the local ANWB, the garage, and the leasing company. This results in a trip to the garage, then to the car rental company, and then back again for one of us. As a crowning touch, we have a nasty crash during this ride. Iza slides into a sharp, steep, and wet curve, falling hard and crashing into the guardrail. Dennis can’t avoid her and falls with her. The result: a broken steering wheel, a few bruises, and a torn shirt. But above all, a change of plan. Things happen. Accept and adjust. This in no way affects our judgment of this beautiful cycling area.
Cycling holidays in Luxembourg
If you are planning a cycling holiday in Luxembourg, be sure to check out the two routes we have cycled. One starts at Ostergaard’s Bike Shop in Mersch, the other at Andy Schleck Cycles in Hesperange (just below Luxembourg City). Both routes take you over lovely asphalt, right through the beautiful Luxembourg countryside. A good start to your trip is therefore our hotel in Mersch, hotel Martha.
Also useful for a cycling holiday in Luxembourg
Want more inspiration about Luxembourg? Then read, for example, these two stories about great routes:
- Luxembourg Ardennes – Cycling in Luxembourg
- Luxembourg – from a three-country point of view to a three-country point of view
- Basic packing list
- Luxembourg in a nutshell
Where to stay
- We were very pleased with the hotel. Hotel Martha The hotel is spacious, luxurious, with a good breakfast buffet; we were able to store our bikes safely and it was perfect for our routes. The adjacent restaurant of the hotel served a delicious three-course meal for less than 35 euros (!).
Other useful links? You can find them on the site of Visit Luxembourg!
Questions & tips
Do you have any questions about this route, or have you been there yourself? Share them here. We read everything and usually respond within a few days.