Portugal is an underrated cycling destination. The coastline, the Douro valley, the Algarve and the Alentejo And then we have the region bordering Galicia not yet mentioned. Magnificent landscapes, a culinary palette that is second to none and variety from flat to climbing. In a word, magnificent. Last months, Pedro do Couto Lopes trekked along the beautiful N2 route. This route, which stretches from the mountainous north to the plains of the south, is a real pleasure to cycle. When you read Pedro's report, you want nothing more than to head straight for the land of Fado and port. So off to discover Portugal by bike! Aqui vamos nos!
Text and photos: Pedro do Couto Lopes
Recently, I have been thinking about how I Portugal got to know it better while cycling. I have always wanted to know more about my homeland, so I put my money where my mouth was. Using a map as a guide, I set out to find out. Almost immediately, the N2 route emerged as the perfect way to both challenge myself and better understand the country I was born in.
End-to-end trekking through Portugal on the National 2 was the best way for me to explore, find new views. It also allowed me to push my limits, meet other people and open myself up to new experiences. It may sound like a healing experience. Maybe it was.
The route
The route starts close to the Spanish border in the north at Chaves (pronounced 'Shavs'). From this starting point, the route ends in the heart of the Algarve, in Faro. Once you have reached the Atlantic coast, you will have covered a total of 740 kilometres. Not just any challenge, then, because those 740 kilometres are by no means flat. The north in particular is hilly and you will have to overcome some nice climbs here and there.
Preparation
An adventure like this needs good preparation. Having a fixed route does make planning easier and so I spent a day preparing. My experience on the bike and quite a few hours of watching YouTube help me on my way. That way, I know just about everything I would want (or need) to know about multi-day trips on a bike. My preparation went well, my training was top notch and I felt good on the bike. The logistics were absolutely spot on. But well, you'll see: another small setback in the preparation for my first solo adventure.
Positive news
Seven days before the start of my adventure, I test positive for COVID. NOT what I had hoped for, but with the support of my partner, I still get ready to embark on the adventure. Still bizarre to see that for two years I jumped between the cracks while working at a school. Never tested positive and then I want to embark on an adventure that really requires a lot of power and I test positive! So much physical preparation suddenly seems to fall apart.
Mental challenge
It is especially mentally challenging for a while. Will I be fit again in time? Ultimately, you have to feel that for yourself, but on day 7 of my recovery (day 1 of my trip), I actually start the ride over the N2. Although better preparation is conceivable, especially with a long challenge like this, I prepared well. Lots of rest, lots of paracetamol and drinking lots of tea. That's all you can do at a time like this. Time should tell if it's enough. To be really sure, I do a short test run the day before the start, in the heat outside. The mercury is showing 35 degrees. With an hour of riding, 32 kilometres under the tyres and 500 altimeters, I know where I stand.
Managing the heat
After my test run and on the first kilometres, it becomes clear to me what the biggest challenge is: the heat. Physically, the challenge should not be a problem, but combined with the heat, it could be a tough challenge. I consider that I need to divide the six days into a total of 12 blocks. Each day in two blocks. That way it became manageable. Longer blocks at the beginning of this adventure and shorter blocks at the end. Each stage also has its own challenges.
The start, finally!
At 07:30 in the morning, I finally jump on my bike. My focus, stubbornness and drive ensure that I leave anyway on the day I have imprinted on myself. It feels fantastic. The kilometres shoot by and the first route drives right through the Douro Valley a Unesco World Heritage Site gem. I know the routes here like the back of my hand. By the time I reach the valley, I am fairly cooked. Not because of the exertion, but because of the temperature. My Garmin indicates a temperature of 39(!) degrees and it is only 10am. The heat is really going to be a challenge! The heat in the valley is unique because this place has its own micro climate. good to remember. And in case you don't already know: the climate (and especially the heat) is the main factor why port tastes so delicious.
Long climb
The sun does its job of squeezing the energy out of my body as I get ready for the longest climb of the route. This one is 19 kilometres with an average of six per cent. Now I am used to the climbs in the Douro valley, so I knew this would be a huge 'grinder' with little rest. I think back to the first time I did a lap in the valley. I suffered a sunstroke that I was actually always going to suffer from. It also gave me some reserve to go back again. The Douro valley and heatwave is one in my mind.
During the climb, I stop at two-thirds to refill water and buy some salt because I am sweating quite a lot. That helps me get over a dead spot for a while. Mentally it's tough, but I know it's only 25 kilometres after reaching the top,. No easy kilometres, that's for sure. Again, that mental challenge and the fear of sunstroke.
A little meditation and a bit of peace of mind provide me with enough motivation to tackle the final stretch. I ride the last 25 kilometres without being completely empty and arrive in Castro Daire feeling euphoric. I have made it. Despite the conditions and everything involved. 130 kilometres and almost 2000 altimeters I have achieved. What a treat. I can't wait to see what the next few days will bring me.
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Are you going on an adventure of your own? Then be sure to check out our basic packing list, which will help you to always be well and fully equipped on the road. You can find the basic packing list here! As well as many other tips a.o. on how to deal with the sun.
