When you think of cycling, you might not immediately think of Poland. But one thing is for sure, Poland is moving fast on the cycling front. There are several new cycling routes suitable for both road and gravel riders. This time Marinke went out for us, exploring the region of West Pomerania, just across the border with Germany. Here the routes are there for the taking and one thing is for sure: this is the place you want to come back for. From vast lakes and quiet villages to towns and seaside resorts where time seems to stand still. In three days, the many faces of the Polish region of Western Pomerania pass by. On our programme? The ‘Szczecin Lagoon Cycle Route’ and ‘Velo Baltica,’ on a gravel bike.
Western Pomerania: a brief introduction
If you travel from the Netherlands by train or car via Berlin towards Poland, you will most likely arrive in Western Pomerania. The region borders Germany, the federal states of Mecklenburg-Western Pomerania and Brandenburg. To the north, it borders the Baltic Sea. The largest city and also the starting point of our adventure is Szczecin (pronounced Sjtetsjien) just under two hours' drive from Berlin. Located on the Oder River, the city has an international feel, including a large harbour, the renovated Ducal Castle and the impressive Szczecin Philharmonic Hall, which won a European Architecture award. We travelled by train and in one day you can get from any station in the Netherlands to Szczecin just fine. Once there, there is almost 23,000 km2 of surface to explore. The West Pomerania Region is half the size of the Netherlands. We first take a city tour and feast on a beer tasting and a delicious, generous meal under the atmospheric vaults of Wyszak Brewery. My first encounter with Poland literally tastes like more.
Day 1: Szczecin - Wolin, via the Szczecin Lagoon Cycle Route, 100 km
At breakfast, I am impressed by the huge savoury buffet, which would not be out of place as a dinner buffet within Dutch culture. I stay true to my preference for a sweet breakfast, however, and try a typical Polish ‘fruit gel’: a kind of lemonade in gel form. Great fuel for a day on the bike! The first 10 kilometres we ride along major busy roads, which do have a cycle lane and virtually no traffic lights. Then we dive into the cycle route: today we follow the signs with number 3: the Szczecin Lagoon Route. The route is simple: in fact, today we follow the shores of the lake almost all day, mostly through a bird-rich nature reserve, on a flat cycle path with friendly gravel. Periodically we come across special rest areas for cyclists, with seats and a canopy. Otherwise, the route offers little shelter and I am glad we have a tailwind!
Departing from the lake for a while, we cycle through a rainstorm towards a beautiful forest - a nice change and the shelter comes in handy. In the harbour town of Stepnica we feast on a delicious piece of fish and fried potatoes, a common dish in this region. After lunch, we continue the route on tarmac roads, to eventually follow another beautiful gravel cycle path through a nature reserve where bison and wild Konik horses roam. With exactly 100 kilometres on the counter, we end the day on the island of Wolin.
Day 2: Wolin - Międzyzdroje (with detour to Świnoujście), 72 km
Today we have a varied programme: we start with a visit to a watchtower, then a tour of a Viking village is scheduled, before leaving Wolin and continuing our way to the coast. For someone with considerable fear of heights, like me, a watchtower is a challenge. To say that is an understatement. So I hesitate for a moment whether I should go up with you.... However, the Wolin Observation Tower turns out to be no problem: the tower is wheelchair-friendly, so no exciting stairs but a nice gradual wide ‘ramp’ up. At the top, you have an expansive view of the region, without feeling like you are at the edge of a precipice.
Once safely back down we visit the nearby Slavs and Vikings’ Center: a recreated early medieval Viking village. An interesting glimpse into history and a great addition for those who want more than just cycling! After this touristy morning, we get back on the gravel bike.
Gravel alternation on Velo Baltica
Back on the bike, we ride through forests and fields, sometimes on wide gravel paths, sometimes on bumpy concrete slabs. The contrast with the day before is great: more variety, more challenge. After some 30 kilometres we reach Międzyzdroje, where we will spend the night today. However, it's not that far yet: there is still a ‘round trip’ to Świnoujście on the programme.
We also now switch to the coastal route ‘Velo Baltica’, marked with number 10. The stretch up to the (free) ferry taking us to Świnoujście is beautiful. First we ride a bit on a cycle path overlooking endless sandy beaches and the sea, before diving back into wooded areas on slightly more challenging, stony gravel paths with some loose sand here and there. After the crossing, we have lunch on the terrace of the atmospheric restaurant Prochownia, amid ancient forts.
Stawa Mlyny
After lunch, we visit ‘Stawa Mlyny,’ a lighthouse shaped like a windmill and also an important national symbol. By now we are also near the border with Germany, and on that border is a monument to the Iron Curtain. We decide to cycle there along the coastline, very nice to ride along the beach for a while! Then it's back to the ferry along the promenade. Here you will find a large number of wellness centres, spas and health resorts. This is what the region is known for. We take the same road back to Międzyzdroje. By now it is end of day and we are treated to a sun sinking into the sea. That's quite beautiful. We end this day with a delicious dinner in the restaurant of Hotel Aqua Resort, where we also spend the night.
Day 3: Międzyzdroje - Kolobrzeg, Velo Baltica,93 km
We start the day with rain and leave Międzyzdroje via the boulevard and the Polish Walk of Fame. Soon we cycle into another beautiful forest. This is the most beautiful part of the route. A little later, we turn onto beautiful asphalt roads. We pass through a number of seaside resorts, and this route keeps the sea mostly out of our sight. That's a shame, though.
Our stops do make the route a bit more interesting. We take a look at an old church ruin by the sea and at a lighthouse in Niechorze. This is considered one of the most beautiful lighthouses in Poland. It is impressive for good reason: the tower actually stands on top of a cool, stately building. You can also climb it, but this is where my fear of heights wins out. I'll leave that to others. We have lunch in a restaurant near the lighthouse and get ready for a rainy last part of our route.
Rain or not, we are treated to another nice stretch of gravel through a beautiful forest,. Surely in the forest the rain feels a lot less annoying than on the tarmac roads. Once back on tarmac, we count down the final kilometres. Our prospect is a nice sauna and hot tub in Hotel Maxymilian. Over a delicious 4-course dinner, we quickly forgot about the wet day and toasted to a great introduction to Western Pomerania.
Is western Pomerania something for you?
What makes this region special is the combination of nature, culture and coast. You cycle through bird-rich areas, pass traces of the Viking era, and roll through seaside towns that recall times gone by. The routes are very well signposted with numbers, so you can also get by without gpx. Most routes are flat and suitable for both gravel and trekking bikes.On this website you will find a huge amount of information on the different routes, including tips for bike-friendly restaurants and hotels.
