Planning a bikepacking trip in a foreign country can be quite a challenge. Making an estimate involves determining routes, accommodations, the number of days, and safety is sometimes complicated when you’re far away. Especially when it comes to a destination where you can’t find much information online. That’s what Nynke faced when preparing for a bike trip through Thailand. In this blog, she tells how she tackled it.
Making plans
It's October when we're on the road in a crowded car heading east of the country. We're on a family weekend and hope there's some time left to go for a bike ride over the Lemelerberg. As the Dutch landscape rushes past us, we discuss our upcoming vacation in January. We haven’t yet decided on a destination, but we’re definitely going backpacking for three weeks. My boyfriend Thomas would like to go to Asia, Thailand For example. A picture comes to mind of full moon parties, 18-year-old backpackers and pingpong shows. Not really the authentic experience I’m looking for when I go traveling. But I’m open to it.
Cycling in Thailand
How I ended up there, I don’t remember anymore. But suddenly I exclaimed: ‘Can’t we spend part of the vacation cycling through Thailand? That would be really cool!’’ Thomas reacted somewhat hesitantly, but not negatively. The drive will still take a while, so I immediately started Googling. And what turns out? Thailand is a really great cycling country! There are even several tour operators offering organized trips. Among all the search results, I also found the audio book ‘Cycling in Thailand’From Peter de Ruiter. Since we’re still going to be in the car for a while, we decide to listen to him.
See also: our basic packing list
A hoarse voice sounds through the speakers: “We are heading to Thailand, because that’s where we’re going to cycle for two weeks.” Peter takes us into the world of cycling holidays and teaches us a lot. The only experience we have, after all, is A weekend of mountain biking in West Brabant. Although we sometimes feel like we’re listening to Jort Kelder reading a Jip and Janneke book, we are nevertheless excited by Peter’s story. So excited that we decide to actually make a plan out of this crazy idea. But where do you start when you know almost nothing about the country and want to make a bike trip on your own? Here are our tips for a bikepacking trip in a foreign country.
- Check the websites of tour operators
One thing is certain when you look at tour operator bike holidays; someone has put a lot of time into compiling a route. A second factor is that tour operators want to turn a profit and they will generally compile a route that is accessible to a large group of cyclists. The photos on the website also say a lot about the public. What types of bikes do people ride? What do they wear? Are they super athletic? Furthermore, you can assume that a tour operator does not offer a bike trip along dangerous roads. Based on this, we discovered that there is a lot of cycling in the northeast of Thailand and that a bike tour along the Royal Cities is a very common option.
- Become a member of the Facebook group ‘The World Cyclist’
Why would you invent the wheel yourself when there is a Facebook group with more than 7000 bike enthusiasts who have created the coolest bike tours around the world? Ask your question on The World Cyclist and there are certainly a few friendly members who will answer it. I asked myself earlier if anyone had cycled in Northern Thailand before, if anyone knew a nice route, and if there is an organization where I could buy a route. Several members suggested the travel agency AWOL, but unfortunately they only sell full bike tours including flights. One member, Gerry, replied that he was currently cycling in Thailand and that I could follow him on Strava. And that gave me a few useful facts that gave me the courage to further develop this plan.
- Ask your network
Who knows, that one aunt might have been quite adventurous in her youth and you’ll find out that she has seen the coolest places by bike. Or there might be a colleague who can help you further. That’s how I came across De Wereldfietser through a colleague from the journalism field. A friend of someone I follow on Instagram had cycled a route I was unsure about and even had an address for a bike hotel. Great!
- Build your routes using altimeters and accommodations
I don't think I need to tell you this, but don't be blinded by the number of kilometers you run in a day. Instead, pay attention to the number of vertical meters when you're building a route. That way, you'll avoid building routes that aren't suited to your fitness level.
Keep in mind that you might have to spend the night somewhere else. There are plenty of places where there are no accommodations. This will mean that you’ll have to make your stages a little shorter or a bit longer than ideal. No accommodations available through Booking.com? Check the Google Maps map and click on ‘Hotels’ in a search area. That’s how I found a homestay in a village where there were clearly no tourists. A special overnight stay with a lovely Thai lady who cooked delicious for us!
- Don't be in a hurry
Biking in a foreign country is a fantastic adventure. Therefore, don’t just focus on the cycling part; take the time to explore the surroundings and look around. Have a cup of coffee in a beautiful spot, take a photo of a beautiful building, and enjoy the view. Therefore, don’t make the stages too long. Instead, choose a shorter route or take a day longer.
- Be creative
After doing some serious Googling, it became clear to me that the Mae Hong Son Loop is a fantastic route in the northwest of Thailand. It is a loop of about 660 kilometers that winds through pristine nature. It is listed in the book ‘Most epic bike rides in the world’According to Lonely Planet, it is still relatively unknown to cyclists. Not surprisingly, considering that it has 13,000 meters of elevation gain and 4,000 turns with gradients ranging from 20% to sometimes as high as 30%.
On the internet I read that people can cycle it in 5 or 6 days. That would be too hard for me and lead to a fiasco. Therefore, I initially dismissed it and looked for other routes. “But what if we cycle half the route in that same time?” I suggested to Thomas. The mountains don’t get any steeper, but the stages are more bearable. And so we ended up going for this one after all. epic bike rideSo think in terms of possibilities when planning a route and dare to take a different approach.
If you want to know more about the Mae Hong Son Loop, read on for tips and stages below.
Bike rental and bike hotel
The most logical place to start the Mae Hong Son Loop is Chiang Mai. There is a night train from Bangkok. You can also fly there.
Vanilla Residence It is a good base to stay before you start your journey. It is a real bike hotel; you can park and clean your bike and there are tools to tinker with. The Dutch semi-professional Adne van Engelen rents out good bikes at this hotel and is always there to help you with his company. Chiang Mai Cycling Buddy.
Route and accommodations
In this route collection you will find the routes that Nynke and Thomas have driven in Thailand.
Stage 1: Mae Hong Son Loop: Chiang Mai to Pa Pae
Accommodation: Tatanoy Homestay
- Very basic.
- Only bookable via WhatsApp.
- The owner cooks delicious food and is very friendly.
- Waking up with a view of banana trees and drinking tea from leaves from your own garden.
Mae Hong Son Loop – Stage 2: Pa Pae to Pai
Accommodation: Pai Country Hut
- Within walking distance of the super cozy center full of backpackers.
- You can find a big smoothie bowl at Bomb Bowls. Ideal before a long drive.
Mae Hong Son Loop – Stage 3: Pai to Soppong
Accommodation: Jungle Guest House
- A nice surprise! Much better than the photos suggested: a large and tidy room with a nice bathroom.
- The owner is a very enthusiastic lady who takes a photo with all her guests. She is super proud. Especially when you come by bike.
- In the village you won’t find any tourists; it’s a real ‘local experience’.
Mae Hong Son Loop – Stage 4: Soppong to Mae Hong Son
Accommodation: Crossroads House
- It's fine for one night, but there are plenty of other accommodations that are probably more enjoyable.
- Plus point: hammocks in the garden where you can relax wonderfully after a long ride.
- The night market in Mae Hong Son is bustling, but relaxed. It’s a really nice place to go for some delicious food from all kinds of street food stalls.
Mae Hong Son Loop – Stage 5: Mae Hong Son to Khun Yuam
Accommodation: Khunyuam Resort
- Nice place with a beautiful view.
Questions & tips
Do you have any questions about this route, or have you been there yourself? Share them here. We read everything and usually respond within a few days.