Time for a comprehensive report on my experience of cycling in the majestic Dolomites. Together with Rik, who has previously done a guest blog wrote about how he experienced the same trip to the Dolomites, I (Ruben) went on a week-long exploration this summer. For me, this was my very first time among the rock peaks in this cycling mecca. It became a trip to remember, for several reasons
From the Netherlands to Italy
Having a companion you can have a good chat with is a plus when you take the car. From central Netherlands, it is easily about a good 14 hours' drive anyway (allowing for about 2 hours' rest time). Fortunately, in our case that's more than okay, and we drove at our leisure through Germany and Austria to Italy. On the way, we stopped for a smoothie bowl in Heidelberg, because good and healthy food is obviously important when you're folded in the car at a ninety-degree angle virtually all day. In itself, the road to Tyrol alone is a treat. Near Garmisch-Partenkirchen, the high mountains begin, and the views are magnificent even from the motorway.
A warm welcome at the Hotel Melodia del Bosco
We finally arrived in the evening around 8pm in the dark at Hotel Melodia del Bosco. A first impression is always special, but we were immediately extremely enthusiastic about the appearance of our accommodation. And the extremely warm welcome ratified our enthusiasm all the more. The hotel is luxurious and comfortably equipped. And at a particularly reasonable price.
Photo: Rik de Voogd Photo: Rik de Voogd
About the food...
After arriving, we were able to sit down for dinner straight away. And with that we fell head over heels! First of all, a big compliment for the service. Throughout the week we were sublimely taken care of at breakfast and dinner. The breakfast buffet was extensive and provided everything you needed, even with dietary requirements. And dinner daily was a treat. You could choose from two menus: a meat or fish menu, and a vegetarian menu. The portions were perfect, and the selection very diverse.
Fully equipped
The hotel is fully equipped. A spacious storage shed, locked of course, for the bikes including tools, lubricants and a rinse-off area. In addition, the hotel is equipped with a sauna, and you can even dry your shoes in the storage room with a machine used in winter for ski boots. In addition, the sauna and wellness are a very welcome perk. You can book an early-morning massage to get your muscles ready for your next challenge that day. In short: Hotel Melodia del Bosco is a paradise for the sporty cyclist.
Day 1 - Good preparation is half the battle
After a wonderful sleep and breakfast, it was time for the first ride. A moment we obviously eagerly awaited. The bikes were all ready, the sun was shining, and the focus was entirely on a first day of enjoyment. We made the routes on the morning itself, or a day before bedtime. This first day led us over the Campolongo Pass, the Passo di Giau and finally over the Passo di Falzarego. The Campolongo Pass was an excellent starter. A gradual climb, with not too crazy gradients. But then the misery started for me....
About the Passo di Giau: what a monster it is! Good to give some context. My climbing experiences so far were limited to the Alps, the Massif Central and the Vosges. And I never shied away from double-digit gradients. The Eyserbosweg, the Muur van Huy or La Redoute are no problem at all with my sturdy Dutch build and talent for sprinting. But to dish up gradients of around 10-11% to my body for kilometres was not something I was used to. And so I hadn't taken into account that with a 36-28 as the smallest gear I would get the worst of it. On my worst moments, I pedalled at a cadence of around 40, causing acidification to set in so fast that I had to stop about ten times. Ouch. So I wasn't prepared for that...
Fortunately, I had hit the second bikeshop that afternoon, and was able to fit an 11-32 cassette that very afternoon. And that worked out well, because the first day was enough to conclude that slippery trails are no exception in the Dolomites.
This route starts with the Campolongo. In this capacity, a tasty amuse-bouche, introducing what is to come. Make a note: the Passo di Giau from Selva di Cadore and the Passo di Falzarego from Pocol definitely belong on your bucket list. The Passo di Giau is tough, but you will be rewarded with stunning views and an insane descent. Incidentally, the Passo di Falzarego, especially if you take the Passo di Giau as your frame of reference, is very doable.
Day 2 - A stunning return trip to Pederü
Having recovered from the first confrontation with the Dolomites, we decided that a somewhat shorter ride with relatively few altitude metres would not be entirely unwise. After some research, we arrived at the Pederü.
You imagine yourself in an American setting thanks to the high rocks on either side, and the gradient to the 'end point' ripples continuously between 2-5%. So perfectly doable, and at the summit you can have a delicious coffee and eat a cake. The downside is that you do have to return the same way, as the tarmac road ends. Yet we did not find this disturbing, as the surroundings are so diverse and impressive that you hardly notice this.
Day 3: The Würz- and Grödnerjoch
Strange that for me these two cols are called by the German-speaking name, while for the other cols I have memorised and prefer the Italian name. In fact, every col here has three names. In fact, people speak Italian, German and Ladin here. By the way, in the hotel everyone spoke English, so don't worry about a possible language barrier!
The Würzjoch (or Passo delle Erbe) from Mantana comes in two parts and delivers stunning pictures. It looks a bit more lovely and less rugged here. After a magnificent descent to Klausen, this route includes a relatively long section through the valley, before turning left and starting the Grödnerjoch (Passo Gardena) from Ponte Gardena. At 32 kilometres, this was the longest climb we braved this trip. Just before you reach the summit, you pass through a truly stunning part of the Dolomites where you look out on peaks rising above 3,000 metres.
Day 4 - Sella Ronda from Alta Badia
Of course, the Sella Ronda must be ridden! This is by far the most famous route of this corner of the Dolomites. By the way, once a year, on a Sunday in September, this route is car-free to ride (Sella Ronda Bike Day).
The Sella Ronda includes Passo Gardena from Corvara, Passo Sella from Plan de Gralba, Passo Pordoi from Canazei and Passo Campolongo from Arabba. The gradients are manageable, and the length of the climbs are not too bad as you stay relatively high.
By the way, we wrote previously about the Sella Ronda!
Day 5 - Fedaia Madness
Did you think the Passo di Giau was a monster? Well, then you haven't yet met the Passo Fedaia. It is not the Mortirolo, but it is 'the cousin of'. The devil is in the tail, because after a steady run-up you only get the real deal in the second half. With a maximum gradient of 18% and 15.6% over 100 metres, you still get a kind of Wall of Huy in the middle of a tough climb. I found it quite tough!
After warming up again with the Campolongo, this route follows the Passo Fedaia after some further foreplay. Once at the top, a beautiful reservoir follows, and views of the high peaks surrounding the Grotta della Madonna. In this route, Passo Sella from Canazei follows after Passo Fedaia. Also a tough gut-biter, but after Passo Fedaia you'll find anything less steep is fine. Next, this route takes you up the tail end of the Grödnerjoch, before descending again towards Alta Badia.
Day 6 - Furkelpass and Passo Valparola
The last day I felt the altimeters in the legs. I still rode up the Furkelpass smoothly, but then the jeux really started to run out. Nevertheless, it was enjoyable again. On the way, we stopped at Lago di Misurina for a coffee, coke and cake. Again, a stunning spot, but then an equally stunning descent.
We ended with the Falzarego-Valparola combi, where it started to rain halfway. I was really exhausted. And because I couldn't make any more progress, I built up quite a backlog. Rik waited upstairs under a canopy to bring the camera to safety. Once at the top, the first part of the descent turned out to be dry. What luck! It was only when we were almost down that all hell broke loose. It looked like a wall of rain that we drove into.
Chilled, we arrived at the hotel, after which the 'getting warm again protocol' was set in motion. Once we calmed down, we came to the conclusion that these are the rides that stay with you. Heroic, and thus an ode to cycling in the majestic Dolomites.
Final conclusion
The Dolomites are undoubtedly a must-see. It is beautiful, you ride on mostly well-maintained roads and one fantastic col after another looms up. Hotel Melodia del Bosco is a perfect base location, or 'basecamp' for an insane cycling adventure.
Some tips:
- Make sure you have a good rain and wind jacket! A rain front sometimes develops in the afternoon, and if you're riding in that, you'd better be prepared (or dawdle less along the way than we did).
- Take it easy for a day now and then. It's steeper than you might be used to, and with that, a ride is soon a bit more intense.
- Take enough cash with you, as they don't yet have ATM machines at all coffee shops! And oh yes, a coke there is quite expensive at €3.25....
- A climbing gear is an absolute must when heading out into the Dolomites. With a 34 front and 32 rear, you play it safe.
- Drinking is key! Luckily, you will come across more than enough water taps along the way. If you come across one, always refill when you empty a water bottle to make sure you don't run out of water.
