When you are in Crans-Montana, cycling heaven is basically at your feet. That may sound a bit exaggerated but there is definitely a grain of truth in it. From the village you can ride the Sanetsch climbing. This is considered by many to be Switzerland's best-kept secret. You also have the opportunity to visit a whole host of dams and reservoirs. Within cycling distance are Grand-Dixence, Lac de Tseuzier and Lac de Moiry. With a small drive there, you can also Barrage d'Emosson attach. To make the choice even more challenging: you can head towards Brig and then ride on. That opens up many more possibilities, including Simplon Pass, but even better is one of the holy trinity: Furka Pass, Nufenen or even the San Gottardo or Gotthard Pass. Preferably all three at once. We opted for the Furka pass. Spoiler: If you go cycling in Crans-Montana this is a must-do.
Text: Sander Kolsloot, photos: Ruben Hoogland/Sander Kolsloot
The story of a hotel
When you say Furkapas, it is almost synonymous with the Hotel Belvédère. This is perhaps one of the most photographed hotels in the world. It is rightly the most famous hotel in the Alps, especially when it comes to cycling and hairpin bends. Many will know it, but perhaps it is good to tell a bit about this hotel. It was once built in the 1882, after the construction of the Furkastrasse, the mountain pass. The hotel has a rich history, where especially setbacks in the economic sphere are a common thread. The strategic position of the hotel, as part also of the first Alpine postbus line in 1921, has long ensured that the hotel had a steady stream of guests and income.
James Bond
In the 1960s, the hotel's livelihood changed. The pass was widened, cars became more powerful and thus the need for an overnight stay at Belvédère diminished. Ironically, perhaps the scene from the film Goldfinger, in which James Bond (Sean Connery) tears over the Furka Pass in 1964, was the beginning of the end. Although Connery is said to have slept at the hotel and later returned often, it is precisely the speed and power of the cars that prevented the hotel from surviving. There have been several attempts to renovate and revive the hotel. Since 2015, after a landslide closed the road, the hotel has stood empty.
Where to start
If you want to start at the Furka pass, there are several options. Of course, there is the option of driving up from Andermatt. Since we start from Crans-Montana, our starting point is on the 'Valais' side of the climb. The border with the canton of Uri is on top of the pass. You can already start almost from Brig, but then it is a very long and relatively boring approach to the foot. By car, it is recommended to drive to Ulrichen. You can also take the train to this mountain village. From here, you can go in two directions: Furka Pass or Nufenen Pass. From here it is a good 20 kilometres to the tip of the pass. With the first 5 kilometres false flat, it's a great day's programme.
Open Swiss distant peeing championship
One thing is certain. On the Furka Pass, you are never alone. From early morning to late evening, there is traffic. Mid-day is the peak. You are then overtaken left and right by motorcyclists of all shapes and sizes. The Porsche fan club, the Lamborghinis and Ferraris, you name it. It is a coming and going of mostly male drivers who apparently have something to prove. A tip for cyclists: go at the edges of the day and if you do find yourself at the pass in the middle of the day: ride on the right and watch yourself. Because even without these participants in the open ZK far puddle, it is watchful. Touring coaches, Sunday riders and motorhomes are the biggest risk of your ascent turning nasty. Without your own aspirations to turn pro, you're going to be just fine.
Choices
Where to start? This climb presents choices such as: shall I start with Nufenen and Gotthard first? Do I only ride up the Furka pass and straight back? Or do I also go for the Grimsel pass? That can also be tackled after about six kilometres, from Oberwald. On a plateau, the road splits into two beautiful routes, both with great hairpin bends. So it's then left up the Grimsel Pass, or right towards Furka. By then you are already six kilometres on the road, and those six kilometres do not disappoint either. You ride a bit more sheltered among the trees. On the way, you pass Hotel Rhonequelle, where many bikers enjoy a drink. It swings uphill really nicely. The percentages here, especially for Switzerland, are very doable. An average of five to eight per cent is perfect to start with. And don't forget to look around, because the view of the mountains behind you is magnificent!
Choice made
For us, the choice to continue was clear. Our goal today was the Furkapass, and at the old hotel/museum in Gletsch we turned right. This is where the great enjoyment begins. On this stretch, the road climbs very gently. As I stare my eyes out, the counter does not exceed seven per cent. What a relief. You need that air to recover from the beautiful views. You look through a valley towards the Rhone glacier or what is left of it. You can also see Hotel Belvédère, a nice aiming point. The road winds along the mountainside like a snake. For a few kilometres you don't encounter any hairpin bends and suddenly you turn over a stretch of track, left up against the 'back wall'. Here it also starts to climb more steeply again. Very briefly, the Wahoo peaks above 12 per cent. That takes some perseverance. But the reward awaits, at Belvédère, about a kilometre below the summit.
Instagram vs reality
If I have learnt anything over the past few years is that reality on social media and reality can still differ a bit. In most photos of this hotel, the road is beautifully empty, there is no one in the car park and the subject in the photo is the only one in the world. The hotel also always seems "open" and then looks like someone is coming directly to bring a drink, or that a hotel guest is opening the curtains. In reality, everything is different. It is a coming and going of different types of traffic. The car park is packed. If you want to take a picture, everything has to be right. For instance, the mustachioed German shouldn't just park his motorbike in your shot. Or the man who places his motorhome right in the pretty picture, who needs to go home for a while. The bus with over-55s that was let go, we shouldn't talk about that at all.
The view
What we will talk about: the insane views towards the Rhone valley. It is incredible to see all that nature has in store for us humans. That may sound philosophical, but it really is hugely impressive. You can get quite still. For me, that is unique. Many who know me will agree. I also got quiet for another reason. The glacier is almost completely gone. Warming of the area has shortened the glacier by a kilometre (!). That in a short period of time. It seems irreversible, but man what a shame. Also to be quiet about: the gentleman who first asked me if this was Furkastrasse, only to ask, where the glacier was. That one had read another old lonely planet apparently. Painful.
Last metres
You would almost forget, but the top of the pass is not near the hotel. For that, you have to cycle on for about another kilometre. There at the top, on the border of Valais-Wallis and Uri, you can look down into the valley on both sides of this mountain. The side from Andermatt is a lot steeper, but also well worth it. Just a little less interesting for this story. We drive up and at the 'Furkapass' sign we turn right. A beautiful 16-kilometre descent awaits us. With the sun slightly behind the clouds and a fresh breeze, I pull the Busti of Etxeondo from the back pocket and I get to work on it. Not a penny of pain and just warm enough.
Descending with a view
The climb up was already stunning. The descent is perhaps even more beautiful. The asphalt is of very good quality. Only the last kilometres of the descent, the first of the climb, have some worn tracks in the inside bend. Other than that, it's mostly good whooshing and steering. As the climb is not mega steep, you also have a bit more time to look around. Or rather: to enjoy the view. Because that Rhone valley just keeps drawing attention. The only downside are again those participants, mainly on motorbikes, of the ZK. Especially overtaking just before a bend, that's grounds for disqualification, if you ask me. Oh well. Those guys need to get out too, I guess.
So below
Before you know it, you're back in Glitsch. For a moment I think to myself: turn right towards Grimsel? These are inviting hairpin bends. I also like the French word for it: serpentines. Wonderful. The last six kilometres downhill are mainly braking. A few cars and motorbikes form a column that we cannot pass. Pay attention, about a few hundred metres before the RhoneQuelle hotel, you drive through a small tunnel. This is only 10 metres long, but it has cobblestones. That's a 'shock to the system'.
Ride and load
The last five kilometres from Oberwald to Ulrichen is a straight line. We ride on the main road, on the big mill. Lovely. When we turn back into the car park in the village, another nice surprise awaits. Our electric car has been neatly recharged to 100%. Nothing more to do. It can go straight back into the 'Ride and load' category. Satisfied, we pack up and head for Region Dents du Midi, for the second part of our trip. To be continued. But in short: Crans-Montana, how wonderful you were again. A pleasure to stay and drive around.
Route
Check out our itinerary on Komoot. There you will find all routes from the past weeks and inspiring collections for your next adventure!
