Cycling in Region Dents du Midi – Beautiful peaks

The church in the village of Val d’Illiez rings every hour. Actually, just like every church in the world. Yet there is something different here. This church in the Dents du Midi region In Valais there is a building that could be a scrapbook of Switzerland. On one side is the road between Monthey and Champéry. On the other side is the railway (also from Monthey to Champéry) and then the valley. In the background are the beautiful Alpine peaks, the Dents du midi. Unless the church bells are ringing, you can only hear the sound of the Swiss cows bells. The word idyllic is perhaps invented here. Just as the fact that the landscape is almost overwhelming. You really experience the beauty of pure nature. Cycling in the Region Dents du Midi. Why this should be your next cycling adventure, you can read below.

The Tour is coming

When we drive to the Peanut Lodge (our hotel) in Val d’Illiez, we notice something right away. Next July (2022), the Tour will be coming to the region. The climb to Morgins is the penultimate stage on the way to the finish in Chatel, just across the border in France. The region takes the Tour seriously, as evidenced by the banner at the start of the climb in Monthey. A Strava challenge starts here, all the way to the top in Morgins. There are also several yellow items to be found in Monthey. The Tour is coming, and everyone should know that.

At Steve Morabito's in the garden

Former Swiss champion. First deputy to Thibaut Pinot at Francaise des Jeux and Cadel Evans at BMC. Nowadays, he works with his company as an ambassador for cycling in Valais and as a consultant for cycling tourism and cycling races. The name Steve Morabito is well known everywhere in Valais (and Switzerland). Morabito was a very good climber as a professional. The fact that he was born in Monthey, at the gateway to the Dents du Midi probably helped that. Playing in his backyard is great, with beautiful but also painful climbs. Morabito’s mark is clearly visible, because everywhere you can find the Velo Valais sign. This immediately shows the steepness and length of (part of) a climb and lets you know where you are cycling. All to encourage cycling.

Into the woods

The route we drive through the region starts in Val d’Iliez, but is basically a circuit around some highlights. You can start from different points, such as Champéry or Monthey. Since we are heading towards the border with France, the route starts with a quick, clear descent via the Pas de Morgins. The valley is on the right and you can steer easily. We have to be very focused to avoid missing the turn to Morgins. Unlike the tour group, we ride the climb first via a hidden route. A somewhat narrower, well-wooded route aptly named Route Forestière. The forest road, therefore. The climb is quite steep, with an average first section of almost nine percent. After the short descent, it’s a big shock to your entire system.

Across the border

The tour professionals started the climb from Monthey. They drive over a new asphalt road to the ski resort of Morgins. We just get over half of the same climb, which we also descend later. The steepest part is already behind us. Now it is mostly a wide road that runs through the village towards France via a roundabout. About 500 meters before the top there is again a banner on the road. This is the end of the climbing segment from Monthey. After that it is more or less flat until the real top. It is on the border with France, with the Haute Savoie. The view is beautiful, both to the Swiss and French side. The climb on the French side is much friendlier in terms of elevation gain. You can also make the combo by adding a climb to the Col de Bassachaux. A nice variation.

New asphalt

The descent back to Morgins and on to Monthey is one for the connoisseurs. The climb is long, the road is so tight and it’s all about getting on your hands and knees and going! The first part of the descent is relatively flat and the closer you get to Monthey, the more technical and twisty it gets. So there’s plenty of room for beautiful content, but above all for a wonderful feeling of speed and control. It’s a bit tricky with the traffic though, especially if you’re almost in the city. But as a descent, this one is there to be enjoyed. On the climb it’s over 16 kilometers with an average climb of almost six percent. The difference will be made at the beginning, with long, heavier sections up to ten percent elevation gain. After a hard day in the neighboring Alpes Vaudoises, you’ll be in for a treat here.

Through the valley

After crossing Monthey, we have to cross a stretch of valley. It’s not the most inspiring stretch, passing by local industry and agriculture. The various mountains that flank this stretch of the Rhônedal are impressive enough. The Grand Muveran, the Grand Chalard, and the Dent du Salantin watch over you. Imaginatively, we wave to the show’s friend Alain Rumpf in nearby Gryon. Unfortunately, it wasn't possible to make a trip together, but we owe this beautiful route to him.

Long and steep

At Massongex station, we are washing our hands between the cars waiting for the railway crossing. It’s hot, to say the least, and it seems like we’re heading into the forest again. Although: nice isn’t the right word. The climb from Les Giettes via Verossaz is a brutal beast that bites you in the first three kilometers. My bike almost sticks to the asphalt, and that has little to do with the heat. My Wahoo shows double digits for the gradient for a few kilometers. It peaks at 13.5 percent. The steepest kilometer is 11.5 percent on average. We zoom up and the road is now well protected from the scorching sun. The fountain halfway up is a perfect stop to catch our breath and refill our water bottles. That’s also necessary.

The gift that keeps on giving

This climb has everything a climber would like to have in their toolbox. It is the ’gift that keeps on giving’. For over twelve kilometers it keeps you on your toes. It must be said: on a clear day the views are amazing. The Lac Leman, Montreux and, with a little imagination, Lausanne are in sight. Unheard of. As we are nearing the summit, we are given a kind of treat. For over a kilometer through a wooded stretch. The climb seems to end in no man’s land. An unexpected challenge this, but one of extraordinary beauty. This is rightly a ‘Dent du Midi’.

Short descent – back up again

After a quick, technical descent of six kilometers that ends quite narrow and through the populated world, we suddenly turn left. It is a completely unpaved path that has to continue as a road. We ourselves would never have found this path. It turns out to be the beginning of a beautiful final 20 kilometers. The road winds along the mountain wall and offers views over the valley towards Troistorrents, Val d’Illiez and Champéry. As the road turns towards the south, you immediately see the beautiful Dents du Midi in the background. This is beautiful.

Climb up

What is less beautiful: the gradient of some sections on this climb. Often, it reaches ten percent. The road surface isn’t always as good everywhere either. That makes this route quite tough. On my computer, I count the kilometers to the descent. The waterfall on the left provides some relief, and the trees also often protect against the intense sun here. In that respect, it’s a nice route. Just before Champéry and just before the two o’clock in the afternoon, we stop for lunch at a classic Swiss mountain restaurant. In Cantine des Rives They serve hearty meals for outdoor enthusiasts. We leave the raclette and fondue to the side, but the large salad and the gratin pasta certainly go well together. From now on, it’s all downhill from here. Great with a full stomach!

Back to the start

With lunch behind us, we start the descent. Suddenly the road drops steeply down. The road surface here is quite poor and suddenly there is also a kind of mini ramp. The motto here is: hold on tight. If you keep control well, it really is like a race track. We turn past the ‘Grand Paradis’ in Champéry and continue the last kilometers home. It all seems to be a straight downward path, but in Champéry it still goes up a few hundred meters in a tortuous way. The acid is really in your legs. Fortunately, the last three kilometers are really downhill and with a satisfied feeling we head the bikes to the terrace at our hotel. What a wonderful day this has been here in Valais. Unfortunately, it is the last one! Cycling in the Region Dents du Midi is a real pleasure.

More tips and routes from Valais?

• Col du Sanetsch – the best kept secret in Valais
• Cycling route to discover Crans-Montana: start quietly with the climb to the village
• Barrage de Moiry: mighty beautiful climb around Crans-Montana

Cycling in Region Dents Du Midi – Route