Would you like to go gravelling in Italy? Consider the mountains around Bolzano, in South Tyrol. Where the Dolomites are known for the beautiful road climbs, there is much more to discover off the beaten track. From basecamp Bolzano, for example, you can go to the Jenesienpass that leads to the Stoanerne Mandln. This insane route can only be reached by bike or on foot and is an undiscovered gem for many. We can honestly say: Bolzano is your gravel basecamp in the Dolomites.
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Basecamp Bolzano
From the city of Bolzano, the Dolomites are at your feet. The reason for booking a hotel or accommodation here in particular is simple: all the advantages of a city (including a new direct flight connection from Antwerp or Dusseldorf via Skyalps) but you are in nature all by yourself within 10 minutes. You have several opportunities to explore gravel roads right away too. If you ride the Ritten/Renon pass towards Oberbozen, you can totally indulge yourself on a stretch of 20% into the air. Taking the gondola up towards Kohlern is also good and cool gravelling. But the icing on the cake for us is the cool climb towards Stoanerne Mandln (Ometti di Pietra). It's just too much to choose from because you have plenty of options to the south as well. Again: Bolzano is your gravel basecamp in the Dolomites.
Lago di Caldaro
Along the Adige River, we drive towards the Kalterer See, or Lago di Caldaro. This is a really beautiful place to grab a nice drink after a nice ride. From there, we ride towards the start of the climb towards the stone men. The approach is nice and flat in that respect and we can really get into our rhythm for a while. Which is nice, because the climb up is a long, steep stunner. Counting from Bolzano, you first have a stretch of asphalt, but after about 40-50 kilometres it goes off-road and then you have to be ready. Before that, we'll take the 'seilbahn' to the top.
Stone men
As soon as we start the climb, it's a little swerve and keep grinding. It is made clear beforehand that the final stretch is not necessarily going to be easy. We are prepared. We slowly climb above the tree line and meanwhile the views get more and more insane. We see the complete Dolomites in front of us and it is pure enjoyment. The higher we get, the worse the road surface gets. It gets a bit bouncy and you really have to keep some pressure on the pedals to stay straight.
So we come to a first kind of plateau. Then we have to go on for a few hundred metres, but what a beautiful place. It is so quiet there. Just us, a few hikers and no one else. Once at the bottom of the last 100 metres, we can already see the stone men. A bit of 'clunking' and then we are at the top. Meanwhile, we have had to overcome high percentages: 15% is no exception.
Crazy place
That the Stone Men is an insane place, that should be obvious by now. You are sort of "on top of The World. All around you are mountains, no matter how far you can see. Meanwhile, you are standing in a place that is thus different every time. The stone men (storneren mandln) are actually small pebbles that are piled up again and again. The weather changes the build-up of those little men and so this place is different every time. It is also not a protected area, so you could also build up your own little man. Unique!
Descending into the city
The descent to Bolzano starts as a real, tricky gravel descent. I have to say, I also go down on the descent. Shit happens. But the views remain insane. Halfway down, we stop for a delicious coffee and apple pie, but in the meantime we roll along nicely. Bolzano and the Stoanerne mandln are places not to be forgotten in a hurry. Once down we go for an 'aperitivo' and a three-course meal. That is also the advantage of finishing in town: you can have a drink somewhere and relax that way. Plenty of choice of restaurants and bars.
Route + tips
Our tips
- Hotel Figl has a good spacious bike cellar with tools
- Get a real local beer at Hopfen or at Batzen Hausl
- Do as the locals do and let Bolzano pass you by on the terrace of Stadt hotel Citta. Stay for lunch or dinner and you won't be disappointed.
- The wines of city vineyard Schmid-Oberrautner are perhaps the best in the region. It is a special place for good reason.
- When creating routes in Komoot, pay attention to the unpaved sections to make sure you don't pick up an MTB route uphill. Those are extremely challenging.
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