Are you saying Germany, ...and then you say gravel. And if you mention gravel in Germany, you really can't ignore the beautiful Harz region. Approximately five and a half hours' drive from Utrecht, you'll find an expansive nature reserve that will leave you speechless. It's like riding through different countries in one day, like you're constantly going up and down, and like you're sometimes going back in time. Do you want to know why you should go gravel biking in the Harz, in Saxony-Anhalt and Lower Saxony on the border with former East and West Germany? Then read on for more tips for gravel biking in the Harz.
The first days of spring are making themselves known in the Netherlands as I drive to the station on an early morning. It’s the signal to pick up my travel companion, load the bikes and set off for the region of Sachsen-Anhalt. Our final destination is Benneckenstein, a village deep in the Harz mountains, a stone’s throw from the former Iron Curtain. That history intrigues me enormously. It’s a history that is almost impossible to imagine in this day and age. We travel almost barrier-free all over the world. But until barely forty years ago, there was a literal wall between eastern and western Europe. In Berlin, it was very visible, but also in the Harz, a mountainous region that extends across several German federal states, you can still see and experience history.
During our preparations, we already spotted the old border post which is included in one of our routes later on. It's a classic watchtower, with a sort of open field around it. Ideal for spotting intruders. It's a tangible reminder of a conflict. For us, it’s an absolute must-visit.
Broken everywhere
On the way, you notice little of conflict; it’s a fine journey like this to the centre of Germany. Via cities like Hanover and Braunschweig, we slowly dive into the Harz You can see the mountain range from afar, with the Brocken, the highest point, bathed in sunlight. That highlight is also included in our routes. Literally and figuratively.
Explore the Harz
But we are on our way to Benneckenstein, to Pim and Carla. Two fifty-somethings, who saw their search for more peace and quiet take a turn during COVID, perhaps one they hadn't expected. The result, in any case, was a house in Saxony-Anhalt, which is now a B&B, Explore the Harz is located. Pim is a keen cyclist and knows the best routes in the region, and the accommodation is perfectly situated for exploring the entire region.
Once we've arrived, we're given a warm welcome. Pim is still busy with DIY, as the following week is an important weekend with many guests. A B&B is never finished, but then, while doing DIY, you suddenly have a shower screen in a thousand pieces. Anyway, never a dull moment.
We'll unpack, have coffee, and quickly get ready for a first exploration. Pim had already created four routes beforehand, each with its own theme. Highlights? A bit of GDR history, the Brocken, the Rappbode Dam, and the Josephskreuz. We can’t wait.
Our first route is a circuit of approximately 35 kilometres, starting and finishing in Benneckenstein. What is striking is that within the first kilometre we are already on gravel sit. And what lovely gravel. Champagne, crisp, delicious, beautiful gravel. And then that environment. We twist and turn around hills flanked by trees that are half gnawed away. It sometimes feels like you are in an old mining environment. If you forget you are in Germany, it could also be the American interior: Colorado, Utah, Arizona. Winnetou and Old Shatterhand were probably not conceived in Elspe, but here.
Towering
We are driving towards the Carl's Tower, a large observation tower, of which there are many in this region. On the one hand, they are tourist attractions, but some have also had a more strategic purpose. These Carl's Tower As well as an observation platform, it also serves as a telephone mast. It was once built in 1901 as a telephone tower for the local narrow-gauge railway company. Now, since 1998, it's also a viewing tower. You can easily go up in gravel shoes and the view is magnificent. The road to get there was also lovely, so we had a good start. Our route then turns in the direction of the Broomstick, just over the border with the neighbouring state of Thuringia. This special observation tower even has two slides! And the witch theme is still very much evident here. Upon returning home, a nice local drink and some snacks await us. Ideal.
In the evening, we'll eat a little further away at the Waldhaus Wolfsbachmühle. A restaurant run by a Dutch couple. With some Dutch dishes, but certainly also the familiar, wholesome German fare. The Delft blue earthenware on the wall brings a smile. As does the glimpse into the old underground cellar. Top.
East meets West
Sorge is a hamlet of nothing. On a weekday, you only see some elderly people sweeping their street. Nothing in the street makes you think of the geographical importance of this place. It has a station where the steam train stops. But more importantly, it was the last village before the border between East and West. In the village, you see this at the station where also the Border Museum is located. For the real visual impression, you need to go about two kilometres outside the village. The border guard tower and fences are still there.
We are being looked after by the former mayor. She also lived here during the Cold War. The stories she tells linger for a long time. About her move to Sorge, about the special permit she needed. About the dark history. Just like the climb up the former watchtower and the visible border. The memorial plaques to the fugitives who perished here do the rest. It leaves a deep impression. It is a prelude to a special day.
Mix
Do you know that saying, “If you think you are too small to make a difference, try sleeping with a mosquito”? The equivalent in the Harz Mountains is the bark beetle, a creature only 5 millimetres in size. A pinhead. This beetle, however, has an enormous influence on the landscape in the Harz. A monoculture of conifers, planted as part of post-war reparations and climate change, provides the ideal breeding ground.
Puffs of smoke occasionally rise above the mountaintop. It looks like a flickering campfire. The source of these wisps of smoke? A steam train. The region is home to a real steam train, which is also jokingly called ‘Hogwarth’. It runs on narrow-gauge tracks, you can see it from afar, and when you're standing next to it, you can hear it too. It's primarily a tourist attraction, which apparently costs a fortune. However, it does make for a good story. The train actually travels with us on this route, as the final destination is the Brocken.
Brocken Observatory
The summit of the Brocken. It's not the most beautiful mountain in the world. The climb up to it, through the woods or what's left of them, eventually merges with the narrow-gauge railway. A photo with ‘Hogwarth’ is then almost unavoidable. What's also unavoidable in April: a few wisps of snow. Although the sun is shining brightly, the temperature here still drops to freezing point at night. And so there's still snow in the shade. The road to the Brocken is once again that wonderful gravel. Champagne, but the German version. Sekt probably. We are more than happy with it.
The last stretch to the top is asphalted and, as mentioned, quite touristy. Everyone wants their photo taken at the highest point in the region. The observatory, Jumble sale, at the top is lovely to visit and in the many wars had a function as a communication centre. During the Cold War, the Stasi also took up residence here. It is worth a visit. We skipped the soup from the canteen, but that was a local speciality.
Moon landing
We are once again driving through this almost bizarre moonscape. What stands out, besides the unique environment, is the peace and quiet. We hardly encounter anyone. Apart from the climb up the Brocken, where it is more touristy, you don't see a soul. A lost hiker, two cyclists. Nothing else. You also hardly come across any cafes or villages. You really have to plan for that. The descents and the roads are sometimes a bit challenging, but often beautiful and rolling. This nature park actually offers everything you want as a gravel cyclist.
After a long journey, we are heading back to Benneckenstein. The fireplace and the good care of Pim and Carla await us there. Dinner is further on, at a respectable German restaurant. Twelve-ender in Schierke. The wheat beer and the schnitzel go down well.
Off to the water
Germany means to me reservoirs. A ‘stausee’, that's always something beautiful, isn't it? In the Harz region, you'll find several large lakes with associated dams. The most beautiful and impressive of all is the Rappbodetalsperre, the main goal for today.
Iron Cross
For our route, we need to drive a small stretch by car. Due to the weather, we'll drive a bit further so we just miss the predicted rain. This means we'll start at the bottom of the climb to the Josephskreuz, an attraction in the region.
The Joseph's Cross is a special construction. Somewhere on a mountain, in the south-east corner of the Harz, it stands shining. It's a piece of craftsmanship from 1896. Steel, sturdy, special. It's the successor to the wooden Joseph's Cross that was erected here in 1850 (and was struck by lightning and burned down). Design-wise, it's most reminiscent of the Eiffel Tower, which was also taken as an example. However, this will spark more conversation than its famous French brother. The view from the top is spectacular, though. The only downside? It's quite windy. Climbing the stairs in gravel shoes is also an adventure. I don't have a fear of heights, but I do find the 100 steps upwards a bit challenging. Fortunately, we're the only ones who want to go up in this wind and fresh temperature. Job done. Case closed.
From there it's downhill and then towards the Rappbodesee. Before that, we have to drive quite a bit north-east. Here we alternate more standard gravel paths with forest, but also some asphalt in a gorge we ride through. Still quite beautiful, but just different to the pine trees and the vastness of the previous two days. We'll go for a different kind of vastness at the dam later. To get there, we have to do a good climb at the very end, which goes right through the forest and literally brings you out at the dam. The view? SUPER!
Rappbodetalsperre
The Rappbode Dam is a solid piece of German engineering. It is Germany’s highest dam, measuring 106 metres in height. The dam was built between 1952 and 1959 and holds back about 113 million cubic metres of water in the adjacent lake. A suspension bridge has recently been added as an attraction, which you can walk across, bungee jump from, and where a zip line has also been installed. For the truly daring. I find the suspension bridge and its associated viewing tower to be quite sufficient. I’m a bit of a scaredy-cat. Or well, in gravel shoes. At the ticket office, there's also a small eatery where you can get something to eat. The sweet potato fries taste delicious.
After the suspension bridge and some photos, we drive on, following the shape of the lake. A beautiful viewpoint presents itself, resulting in even more photos. After that, it's a turn towards Stiege, where we should actually have started in order to then head back towards the Josephskreuz via Stolberg. Stolberg, known from Juliana of Stolberg, is incidentally a charming town with a beautiful castle.
Nice to stop, but we were in more need of the car's warmth for a bit. If we end the day at the recommended restaurant, then it's still quite funny: it's a butcher's shop with a restaurant section., Brockenbauer. My travel companion is vegetarian. And the delicious steak I had my eye on, I should have ordered a day earlier. Oh well. Sometimes you get lucky. Sometimes you don't.
Quedlinburg
On our last day, we'll travel a bit further towards home and start a short loop in and around Quedlinburg, beginning in Thale, another stunning village. We'll drive here past the DDR Museum, where we see the inseparable Trabant. This little car is fantastic to drive (you can still do that in Berlin!), but it's mainly the image that fits the GDR. Further on, we find a beautiful gorge that we follow before turning back for a stretch through the forest, on our way to the Teufelsmauer. Before that, we pass Quedlinburg, where we also visit the castle and the beautiful half-timbered town. Not bad.
Devil's Wall
When you stand close to it, you mainly see a lot of stone, standing straight up. But from a distance, the large rock blocks collectively form a wall. The blocks seem to have been thrown down somewhat randomly, hence the likely naming after the Devil. Who would do this, or how could it even be possible? It means it's quite busy here with hikers, day-trippers, and other tourists, like us. Definitely worth the detour.
Witch theme
One thing we haven't mentioned yet is that a lot of things in this region revolve around ‘witchcraft’. Don't be afraid, you absolutely won't be jumped by witches in the night. But according to mythology, this region is the place where the witches danced before they flew to the Brocken. That's why you can find the ‘Hexentanzplatz’ (Witches' Dance Floor) in Thale and why you'll find numerous references to witches throughout the region. Especially in the run-up to Walpurgis Night (April 30th to May 1st), you'll see witches everywhere in the villages and towns. And no, I'm not talking about the annoying neighbour, but rather about all sorts of dolls and other things. It creates a fun and sometimes comical sight.
Discover the Harz: your home from home
During our trip, we stayed with Carla and Pim, who together Explore the Harz Runnen. Her B&B in Benneckenstein was literally a home away from home. Homely is the right word. A fireplace, a place to store your bike. A drink upon arrival. A nice room with a good bed. Tips and tricks for the region. If we had wanted to, we could have also done the schnapps tasting, but after long days of cycling, schnapps was a step too far.
But what also stands out is that a good conversation is also part of a homely atmosphere. That sounds cliché, but it was. We talked about life, about work, about family, as if we had known each other for a while. And that wasn't the case, because Pim and Carla had been strangers until this weekend. We had only spoken on the phone once and exchanged a few texts to prepare for this trip.
I consider that sort of thing a quality. That you can make someone you don't know feel at home. That they can settle in after a day out, without feeling obliged to do anything. Therefore: highly recommended, and not because they hosted us for three nights. No, because it's the right thing to do.
Harz Mountains Routes
More information and useful links
- Do you want to go to the Titan? Then you need tickets, which you can Order here to buy at the counter
- On the website of Harz Tourism Association you will find all the information about other highlights in the region, including the Brocken, the Josephskreuz and more.
- You can also find more Harz tips in our other articles, such as this one Enjoy: cycling in the Harz National Park
This trip was made possible with the support of Saxony-Anhalt Tourism.
