Thailand and cycling. Two words you wouldn't expect to hear in the same sentence. Certainly not me. My image of Thailand consisted of heat, humidity, Full Moon Parties and ladyboys. Plus delicious food. But cycling? No. Until we spent a few weeks in Chiang Mai doorbrachten en moesten concluderen dat dit een van de beste plekken is die we ooit op de fiets hebben ontdekt. Chiang Mai is met recht de beste fietsbestemming van Thailand.
Text and photos: Gijs Louter
Unexpected asphalt
The first thing that strikes you: the roads are good. Not “good for Southeast Asia,” just good. In many places, better than what you encounter in Europe. Smooth, wide, well-maintained. Yes, there are sections where you need to pay a bit more attention, but that applies to any destination.
It’s the variety of routes that makes it really interesting. From Chiang Mai, you can head in any direction. Long mountain rides with serious climbs to the north and west. Relaxed loops through the countryside past villages, temples and rice fields. Or Doi Inthanon, Thailand’s highest mountain: over 30 kilometres of climbing, sections of 17%, and at the summit you stand at 2,565 metres with legs that feel like jelly and a smile that won’t go away.
Flat whites with a view of the rice paddies
The coffee and cake in Thailand are better than in Italy. That sounds like a ridiculous claim, but it's simply true. In the most remote places, halfway up a climb, there's a little cafe with a perfect flat white and a cheesecake that makes you forget you've just spent an hour trudging uphill.
Thailand is sowieso een land waar je als fietser verwend wordt. Pad thai voor niks, smoothies die je meerdere keren per dag bestelt, en na elke rit een massage voor een paar euro. Het klinkt als een cliché, maar je went er zo snel aan dat terugkomen in Nederland een beetje pijn doet.
The six o'clock in the morning cyclists
Thailand heeft een Cycling culture which has grown significantly in recent years. Between seven and eight o'clock in the morning, it's already busy around Chiang Mai: groups of cyclists head out into the mountains, riding out ahead of the heat. It's an open, relaxed scene, and you can easily join in.
The ultimate route in the region is the Mae Hong Son Loop. Over 600 kilometres through the most remote part of Northern Thailand, with around 14,000 metres of elevation gain. Little traffic, spectacular nature, villages where tourists are a rarity. The sort of route that renders a cyclist speechless.
Ride with Channika
A tip: drive with Channika from Chiang Mai Cycling Buddy. She knows every route, every coffee spot, and every bend where you need to be a bit careful. For individual day trips, for the Mae Hong Son Loop, or for other multi-day trips with a support vehicle and everything arranged. You can also rent a bike. It doesn't get any simpler.
Elephants on the climb
Where else do you get to cycle amongst elephants on your way up? It's these moments that make Thailand such a special cycling destination. The landscape changes constantly. Rice paddies, jungle, mountain passes, temples. And everywhere people who smile at you as if they already know you.
And on top of that, it's also cheap. Accommodation, food, bikes, everything costs a fraction of Southern Europe. That suddenly makes three weeks of cycling in Chiang Mai very accessible.
Practical
Best Season: December to February. Dry and pleasantly warm. From March onwards, air quality deteriorates significantly due to smog.
Stay Nimman, the nicest neighbourhood in Chiang Mai. Good restaurants, cafés, and a perfect base.
Bicycle Rent at Chiang Mai Cycling Buddy or bring your own bike.
After the ride Local food, smoothies, massage. In that order. Or mixed up.
Packing list Packing list for lightweight backpacking in Asia
More info: chiangmaicyclingbuddy.com
