A vast expanse lies before us. As we make long hauls along a crackling gravel path, a light breeze blows in our faces. The sun is showing itself on this spring day. This is Zeeuws-Vlaanderen at its very best. West Zeeuws-Vlaanderen to be precise. A piece of the Netherlands with its very own identity. This is where Zeeland and Flanders come together. A touch of burgundy, but between the arable land. Flat roads, but also cobblestones. A coastline popular with many, but where you can find the tranquillity of the hinterland, which you don't see in the Randstad. This route takes you on a salty gravel adventure, along the beautiful coastline of West Zeeuws-Vlaanderen
Lock
A sweet sticky Zeeland delicacy, with a name that sometimes makes you frown. The Zeeland Bolus, a beloved companion to a good cup of coffee. At Saint Paul's bakery in Sluis, they know a thing or two about it. So if you are going to grab an extra calorie bomb, this one comes highly recommended. Not coincidentally, this is also the starting point of our route. So is there such a thing as a coincidence? I think not. Sluis is a great place for a stop anyway. With its city wall, picturesque centre and name of culinary hotspot, Sluis is the place for a stop!
Vanished Zwinhavens
The region around Bruges and Sluis was a prosperous trading metropolis in the 12th and 13th centuries. The sea link to Bruges, there were several 'Zwin ports' there. The Zwin, a nature reserve located largely in Belgium, but also still partly in the Netherlands, is a wonderful treasure trove. Here you can go bird watching, literally drive across the border and find yourself in a beautiful UNESCO Global Geopark. Not too bad.
Cycling here, you meander along the water. It is occasional to dodge some other cyclists, but on the wide gravel paths this is no problem at all. A stop at the Zwin visitor centre for a pee break or a small 'apero' is highly recommended. Further on, you'll find the Boerenverdriet. Actually a three-way intersection, with a hill and a boundary post on top. A marker of 'the Boerenvedriet', with the explanation of the name nicely explained at the site of Gastvrij Zeeuws-Vlaanderen.
Farmland is perfect for gravel
As a peripheral city, I still sometimes made bad jokes about less densely populated areas of the Netherlands. Let's call it youthful ignorance. In recent years, I have been surprised time and again by the beauty of 'farmland'. Because fair is fair: many gravel roads or cobbled streets are originally farm roads. So there is a strong correlation between less populated areas and good gravel routes. City gravel is still a gimmick, and for the most beautiful gravel routes in the Netherlands, you will quickly find yourself in the Achterhoek, Drenthe and....West Zeeuws-Vlaanderen! Miles of two-lane gravel paths that make the average gravel enthusiast drool. In this route, too, we are spoilt for choice.
Fortresses, churches and cobblestones
In the Zeeuws-Vlaanderen countryside, you will find not only kilometres of gravel but also some beautiful sights. Pay extra attention to the ramparts of Retranchement, the church, the wall (and ramparts) around Sluis, the church tower of Sint Anna ter Muiden that you see in the distance. The church towers form beacons in the distance. In the past, this was a good way to get your bearings, but even now it comes in handy if you can't remember your way. It is also a nice change in the typical lowlands, which are also so characteristic of Zeeland. In the lowlands, you will also find many cobblestone streets.
Along the coast
As sung by Zeeland band Bløf, the Zeeland coast is truly beautiful. In this route, you take in much of this coastline, actually from Hoofdplaat, through Breskens and then all the way to Cadzand. The wind will always be a factor, but if there is a storm, you will have to scratch behind your ears. Personally, I always find water and sea magical. It is incredible to see this natural phenomenon and to think that Zeeland has such a special and sometimes dark historical relationship with water. Often deployed in wartime, but also that first February night of 1953. That's why following the coastline is a must-do. It also makes a great addition to the route!
Tips and the route itself
- As described, a stop in Sluis is a must-do. We can recommend the bolus at Bakkerij Sint-Paulus.
- Lunch in Breskens is also an idea anyway. We have at Blossom Kitchen & Bar had a more than good lunch. The pancake house next door didn't look bad either.
- Along the way, you will encounter relatively few refreshments on this route. Just before Breskens is the Speel- en Bunkerpark Groede Podium and later in the route you can make a stop at Biervliet or back at Hoofdplaat. From Breskens to Cadzand, you'll find 17 beach pavilions open all year round.
- Ferocious17 is a good tip. Just be sure to bring a lock to secure your bike then
- You can make the corner to Sint Anna ter Muiden, just before the finish. The church caretaker will be happy to take you on a historical journey.
- Want to spend a nice night? Then consider the Breydelhoeve In Retranchement.
Gravel Route A Salty Gravel Adventure
This article and trip was made possible in part by Hospitable Zeeuws-Vlaanderen. More information about the region and other inspiring routes can be found on the Gastvrij Zeeuws-Vlaanderen site.
Read also: Boundless graveling in West Zeeland Flanders
