Ralph Ornelis went on a gravel adventure in Abruzzo on behalf of CyclingDestination. The region Abruzzo in Italy is relatively unknown. Many of us still stick to the well-known options for gravel in Italy such as Tuscany, Veneto, Piedmont, Trentino. But the Abruzzo giving you more possibilities, not just for road cycling but also for gravel biking. Invited by Melanie from Villa Ferranti, it was pure enjoyment. Do you want to head that way too? Read on!

Sun over the hills

The morning in Abruzzo doesn't start with an alarm clock, but with light. Wonderful sunlight, in the early spring. Nicely warm too, much warmer than in the Netherlands or Belgium. Imagine looking straight out of your room over a glorious hilly landscape. Further on, you can see the lovely gravel paths, olive trees, and the occasional vine. You can't quite see them, but you can imagine them: villages clinging to the hillsides as if they're about to tumble off. These are wonderful days like this in Abruzzo, which begin and end at our basecamp: Agriturismo Villa Ferranti. It's a perfect start for ‘la dolce vita on a bike’

Hidden

The villa is nestled amongst rolling hills, between rows of olive trees. You know, the kind of picture everyone dreams of. In the early morning, it's still old-fashioned quiet. Only the clinking of cups and the sounds of the first conversations from the early birds who fancy a day of cycling. Breakfast is simple but exactly what's needed: fresh fruit, hot coffee, fruit juice, fresh eggs from their own chickens, and croissants. As it should be in Italy. Outside, the sun rises and shines over the landscape, and you know another day full of gravel awaits.

Speaking of gravel, that's why we're here. We've pencilled in some nice days together with Abruzzo Trail, taking in the highlights of this region. They are organising an event in June, the MAGS Experience. We will be driving a few sections of this route. This will give us a sneak preview of the event. The event itself is, of course, unique, so we cannot pass judgement on it here.

You can almost divide the routes into four. Sea, mountains, land and the last would then be air. But for air there is then a different stretch of coast. Let yourself be taken on a gravel trip through Abruzzo!

Day 1 – The Sea

The first few kilometres feel like a delightful introduction. We head towards Atri. Around Atrium the gravel tracks wind inland towards the coast. It's not a brutal climbing day, but a pleasant rolling route: wide paths, interspersed with short, tough sections where your tyres momentarily search for grip. It's a bit of a slog at times, but that's all part of the experience in Italy. When the sea appears at Pineto, the landscape opens up completely. It is beautiful there and the view of the Torre di Cerrano, That rounds it off perfectly. This is what you come to this region for.

After lunch, another wonderful thing awaits us. Civitella del Tronto. The climb up is quite painful, but at the top it's pure enjoyment in the beautiful town/castle, built by the Bourbon Parma family. Further on too, in Campli and Teramo, it is on the hunt for beautiful stories in the streets and alleyways. From there, it's back to ‘base camp’. To process the first impressions of this beautiful environment.

Day 2 – The mountains

The next day, the scenery changes. Towards L'Aquila, known by many primarily for the devastating earthquake a few years ago, the landscape becomes rougher, quieter, more grand. The roads are less forgiving: here you'll find more loose stones, you'll encounter steeper sections and climbs, and beautiful views where you can catch your breath again. That is indeed necessary

It's gravel, but a bit rougher, less polished than, say, the neatness of Tuscany. Or the Champagne Gravel that everyone's always talking about. When you arrive at Peltuinum and you literally cycle through history, with the wind having free rein over the open plains.

Anyone travelling towards the Tirino valley discovers a different Abruzzo: it is wider here, with a small river babbling between the mountains on both sides. With greenery (at least in winter/spring) and a different feel than on day 1.

Day 3 – The Countryside

Back in the hills around Montefino, the cycling changes again. The roads here are genuinely ‘little roads’. Narrower, more winding, as if they were built just for us. Do be careful of cars here, but you often hear them coming because they give a little honk. That's a local custom all over Italy.

At Arsita and Bisenti You'll also find that authentic Italy and the authentic Abruzzo region again. The gravel here is playful and treacherous at the same time. A descent might look magnificent, yet turn out to be technically difficult at the end. Too much enthusiasm is therefore sometimes punished. Well, that's how it is.

At Castiglione Messer Raimondo and Castilenti you find more cultural impact and it merges into the other.

Day 4 – The Trabocchi Coast

The final ride brings it all together. The Trabocchi Coast is a place where nature and tradition meet. The wooden fishing structures jut out into the sea like almost artworks, albeit fragile ones.

Along the cycle path, it feels like a party. After three days of cycling, they still want to go, but they are damn well sputtering a little bit. In Ortona You look out over the Adriatic Sea and realise how diverse this region is: from rugged mountains to stunning coastlines, with villages that are almost deserted, to more bustle in the large village squares and in the coastal towns.

In short: gravel in Abruzzo: four days of enjoyment!

Villa Ferranti – a special place

So we're staying in Agriturismo Villa Ferranti. What makes this place special is that you'll find real authenticity here. The rooms are comfortable yet also functional, with views over the surroundings. So, it's a real base camp, where you can still fully enjoy the pleasant climate in the evening. Even if the weather isn't cooperating. Then there's plenty of space to relax and still make it a great stay.

Furthermore, everything has been considered for cyclists too. You will find here:

• A place to safely store your bicycle
• Maintenance area with some tools
• Washing machine for your clothes
• Food and drink for on the go

If you need a bicycle: that can also be arranged.

Abruzzo Trail MAGS experience

Would you like to explore the region in a different way? Then take a look at the activities offered by Abruzzo Trail. They are, among other things, the organiser of the bikepacking event Abruzzo Trail MAGS Experience, which is being organised this year on 19 June and is already on its the seventh edition.

This is a bikepacking event with various routes, from a 200km gravel ride with 3500 metres of elevation to a 470km Explorer with 7600 metres of elevation. These can only be magnificent days on the bike. The event starts on June 19th, you'll receive the GPX routes and you can choose exactly when you start. The start location for the MAGS Experience is in Rosetta of the Abruzzi, a 40-minute drive from the house.

This is a so-called ‘unsupported event’, but you will find places along the route where you can get food and drink, according to the ‘Abruzzo hospitality’. That can only be a good thing. .

Immediate surroundings

The location is out of the way, but with a few minutes in the car you'll be in Montefino, which is also perfect for a visit to the local pizzeria. Further north, you'll find Cellino Atanasio, another village, where you can choose from a simple pizza and a tiramisu, to a full Italian meal at a trattoria or osteria. Where Nonna still makes the meatballs and you'll most likely want to linger until the end of the day. Local wine included.

Both owners, Melanie and Bauke, are super friendly. Nothing is too much trouble. Coincidentally, something had just broken in my little apartment, and a solution was arranged the very same day. Impressive, compliments to both of them. The swimming pool at the villa, did we mention that by the way? That's also a keeper.

It’s the sort of place where the longer you stay, the more at home you feel.

Practical – how do I get there

The villa is wonderfully secluded, outside the village in the hills. This means you'll need your own transport to get there, or you can arrange to be picked up from the airport.

Airports nearby:

• Pescara (Abruzzo Airport) – with direct connections to Eindhoven – Weeze Airport and Brussels Charleroi
• Ancona (1.5 hours by car) with a direct connection to Amsterdam and Brussels

Train/Public Transport

• From Milan (a logical point to start) can you get to by train (Frecciarossa – high-speed train) in 6 hours Teramo, coming from nearby. A smart trip would then be:
  • Night train to Zurich (depart around 9 PM from Utrecht) – change to the express train to Milan. 12:00 arrival in Milan. Then at 12:50 the train towards Naples, with a stopover in Giulianova direction Teramo. Arrival there at 18:50.

Car

By car it's easily a day and a half's drive, with over 1600 kilometres from Utrecht to Ferranti Villa and almost 1500km from Brussels to the ‘basecamp’.

Gravel Routes – Abruzzo – Villa Ferranti

Below you will find some of the beautiful routes in the region that we have driven and explored.