As a slowly moving train travels through the flat, vast landscape, the white-turquoise diesel whistle echoes through it. The train heading towards Roodeschool is a familiar sight. The northernmost railway line. In the wider area, there is only one farm and a railway crossing to be found. Further on, you can spot the following station: Warffum. Via Usquert, Uithuizen and Uithuizermeeden, head towards the final destination of Roodeschool. Wind force 6 blows from the northeast across the fields. It is cool, almost frosty for the first Friday of April. This is Groningen as Groningen should be.
While we brave the wind on our bikes, we ask ourselves a few questions. As products of an urban upbringing, we are not accustomed to so much space. So what brings people here in the northernmost part of the Netherlands? Is that the tranquility? Is it the natural surroundings? The food? Or something else? It is the beginning of a beautiful journey for us. A journey that leads through a butcher shop, a pawnshop, churches, fields of hay, and the beautiful North Cape. In search of the soul of Wadden.
Sustainable craftsmanship
While we are in the shop of the Wadden Slager Upon entering Uithuizermeeden, we are greeted cheerfully by a true Groninger in person. Petra, co-owner of this business, as well as the associated pig farm, does her work with great joy. In a world where the demand for sustainable and local products is becoming stronger and stronger, this sustainable butcher shop has found its place. With an eye for both humans and animals, the products are prepared with love. As Petra puts it beautifully: ‘from pig to plate, we facilitate the process’. The pigs and chickens (due to the flu they are not available at the moment) are given a full life. If you would like to eat a piece of meat, this is the address in the Wadden area.
The longer we talk, the more appreciation I get for the way they do this. In the store, Rita, Anouk, and also Hans are present. Hans would definitely get subtitles on Dutch TV, although that’s not necessary at all. I’ll still be looked at suspiciously at first. ‘That’s all very nice, but who are you actually?’ he asks the man. I have to laugh. I like this. I joke that we write for the Roodescholer weekly magazine. I’ll get that back soon. After a question-and-answer session and a nice list of well-known local media heroes, we get to the heart of the matter. We write about cycling and would like to know a little about the butcher shop and the work.
Hans turns out to be a good talker who still works at the butcher shop, which he became the owner of more than 43 years ago and which he handed over eight years ago. The butcher shop itself will be exactly 100 years old on April 27, 2022. Hans‘ grandfather started the business. He and his brother ran the shop for 35 years. Where is his brother now? ’He lives in a big villa.‘ Loud laugh. Then suddenly he says: ’Oh my God, are we done here? I have work to do and when I talk to you, nothing happens.”.
North Cape
As the wind starts to blow stronger and stronger, it gets colder on the bike with every second. A family runs all the way to the coast at the North Cape to take a look at the Wadden Sea. Windmills form a harmonious whole with the landscape. As if they have always belonged here, not built here to quench our insatiable hunger for progress and the demand for energy. It has something magical about standing here. Just like on The end of the land of John O’Groats. On the other hand, you have a very good view of the Eemshaven here. The first ferry to Norway is already at anchor. The steaming chimneys of the power plant next to this harbor do somewhat detract from the landscape here.
When the family has left, the silence and tranquility return. We are alone and can only take photos in this special place. The bird-watching point is a treat for foodies. The three seagulls that come by us don’t notice the difference. When the biting cold becomes too much for us, we continue on. The soul of the Wadden Sea is starting to take shape. It’s a delight.
Treasury
A veritable avenue with trees on both sides leads to the stately Menkemaborg. In this region there are actually no castles to be found. Here you find fortresses. Castles, but in a different way. Menkemaborg is such an example. Once built as a defensive tower, later expanded to become a stately residence. Now it serves as a museum. The adjacent Bathrobes It has now been converted into a charming restaurant with a no-nonsense attitude. The kitchen at this restaurant has five stars. With a wink to the five chefs who work there. A smile automatically appears on your face.
Robert is a man from the area. He doesn’t use too many words. Some might call that being concise. You could also say that he communicates very efficiently. In fact, he appears out of nowhere. Or he has something to say about the space. He is in a hurry. Car. Garage. No problem. During the short tour, we learn a lot more about the function of the space (large kitchen, servants’ quarters, beer brewery, and more), the old living room of the last resident (Rijntje Dijk), and the tea room. Back in the restaurant, we get a glimpse of this space. A photo above the bar of a family hangs in the large restaurant room. The Dijk family? That’s unclear. In fact, no one really knows who it is. A nice addition to this atmospheric place. How does the food taste? Made with love. Five stars.
Churches, farmlands and earthquakes
In Huizinge, the earth shakes to its foundations. Literally. This is the epicenter of the earthquakes that cause concern among the people in this area. A hamlet consisting of four streets, a church, and a home-based café. Where time seems to go slower than in other parts of the country. Where everyone knows each other intimately. Here, young people leave after their youth to return later. If that is still possible, with the shaking ground. Chance or not, but on the day of our trip there is an earthquake in the nearby Zeerijp. Cafe Nastrovja will not be serving pints for a while.
Chapels
The Wadden area has many beautiful places. Many of them are connected to religion, as is the case everywhere in the world. We all look at churches, mosques, temples and other places of worship. Each sacred place has its own unique character. The churches in Groningen are unique. Some are just a little different from others. Sometimes they stand completely free, almost in the open field, yet they are an important part of the village center. Since I was young, I have always been interested in finding these places. It is particularly interesting to see how old buildings are formed. Even in the 18th century, building a church was an investment of time, money and materials. Each church tells a story. They give the surroundings their soul. The soul of the Wadden can best be seen through these beautiful, small, special buildings.
Basecamp Winsum
For this trip, Winsum is our base camp. On recreational Marenland We are in good hands. The adjacent restaurant ‘The Boys from the Neighborhood’ takes care of the inner person. Breakfast, dinner and everything in between. Cozy, but without a lot of frills. Just right and appropriate for this environment. It is fully stocked as standard. Our Scandinavian chalet is equipped with every comfort. Handy indeed. all the things that need to be brought along on such a trip. Winsum is a good, central place in the northeastern Wadden area. Groningen is close by, but the Wadden coast and the eastern Eems Delta are also easily accessible. From here you can enjoy cycling in the Wadden area to the fullest.
Day's route
Our route took us past special places in the Wadden region. The North Cape, Middelstum, Uithuizermeeden, but also villages like Holwierde, Losdorp and Zeerijp. The church of Eenum served as a backdrop for a few beautiful photos. All in all, it was here Enjoying the wind. Are you coming to cycle in the Wadden area too?
Questions & tips
Do you have any questions about this route, or have you been there yourself? Share them here. We read everything and usually respond within a few days.