The İzmir region, on the west coast of Turkey, is not a classic on your bucket list. Not yet. But you might just change that after reading this story. If you go cycling in Izmir, think: Mediterranean views, deserted roads, a bowl of history and freshly baked bread at every stop. Add a Tour of Türkiye arrival as well as a route past ancient Ephesus, and you know: this is no coincidence. İzmir is a cycling destination for good reason. One for both road cyclists, gravel riders and (as the Tour of Turkiye and L'etape Turkey show: you can race there!)
By: Sander Kolsloot
From Çeşme to the bunch sprint in Karşıyaka
In early May 2025, the Tour of Türkiye arrived in İzmir. The final stage, a flat ride from Çeşme to Karşıyaka (a district in the city itself), was one for the sprinters. Matteo Malucelli won it, Wout Poels crowned himself the overall winner. But the race rode past places you can ride too. Beautiful roads, wide boulevards, and stretches of coast where it's easy to wipe the sweat from your forehead with a sea breeze. Cycling in Izmir is really for you.
EuroVelo with spirit: cycling between antiquity and the sea
The EuroVelo 8 route, also called the Mediterranean Sea Route, winds right through İzmir province. It takes you past ancient cities such as Pergamon and Ephesus. Not on busy four-lane roads, but on inner roads and small dykes. In Seferihisar you can smell the sea, in Urla you can taste wine at the farmer's, in Karaburun you drive straight into a fish restaurant. Route plan: start in Çeşme, past Alaçatı, via the cliffs of Ildır to historic Teos, ending in the old town of İzmir. Cycle out and you will automatically make the connection between old and new asphalt.
I have also cycled part of this route myself and it is fantastic. Do bring the right bike and take into account changing road surfaces.
Cycling in Izmir: around Alacatì
Gravel in Turkey? Definitely.
For those who think Turkey is all asphalt and heat: think again. The region around Seferihisar and Gödence offers gravel with character. Pieces of 12%, roads between vineyards, the occasional shepherd with goats. On the platform GoCyclingTurkiye, you will find routes like Seferihisar-Gödence: 88 kilometres, 1,400 altimeters, partly gravel, partly mountain path. You ride past thermal springs, reservoirs, forests and eventually end up in a mountain village where time stands still. Pure, unpolished and adventurous.
İzmir is both course and culture
You literally drive among world heritage sites here. The ruins of Ephesus (Ephesus) are world-famous: you step right into thousands of years of history here. You can walk among temples, bathhouses and along Roman roads here. The price tag is serious, but you can also spend several hours in this historic place. The museum experience at the end, we would always recommend.
And yes, in between you eat baklava or go for the local köfte. If there is one thing you must try, it is the local cuisine. It is really good. Another local speciality is the Kumru. The name comes from the word 'pigeon' and the shape of the bun does indeed resemble it. This is often eaten with (spicy) sausage and local cheese. You haven't been to Izmir without a bite of this 'street food'. Also known in the Netherlands is the lahmacun, or aka Turkish pizza. Because good food is part of this region. Everything local. Everything fresh.
Where are you staying?
Accommodations? Plenty. In Alaçatı you have Sakinev B&B. This is a beautiful place, where owner Birker has put up a cycling spot with a lot of thought and love. What's more, a place to really unwind. You can park your bike there, service your bike for a while or if you don't have one with you, you can rent one. İzmir is starting to understand what cyclists need. We spent a few days there in the Swissotel Büyük Efes bivouacked. Definitely not a standard cycling hotel, but one with every luxury. It's not necessarily Swiss precision, but Turkish hospitality. With swimming pool, massage rooms and a bicycle repair shop on the doorstep.
Practical: how to get there?
Adnan Menderes Airport (IZM) is 18 kilometres from the centre of İzmir and can be reached by direct flights from many European cities. Once at your hotel or B&B, you can rent a bike, if you haven't brought your own. Local providers, meanwhile, have quality road bikes and gravel bikes on offer. In Alacati, you have BikeHouse Alacati, linked to Sakinev B&B. Rental prices are lower than in Mallorca or Girona, and service is often more personal.
Best travel time?
Avoid summer. July and August are hot and dry - and not in a fun way. Ideal are March to June and September to November. T-shirt weather, dry roads, less traffic. In spring everything is green, in autumn it smells like ripe figs. It doesn't get any prettier.
Five reasons to go cycling in İzmir now
- The EuroVelo 8 along the Aegean coast
The EuroVelo routes never actually disappoint. Follow the Aegean coastline and, meanwhile, you'll see not only impressive cities like Izmir, but also the beautiful coast (like at Cesme) and small villages. Where you can still see the real Turkey. - Cracking gravel
The routes around Seferihisar and Gödence give you some solid altimeters and the quiet you are looking for. These are the places you go to Turkey to cycle for. - Course history in the making
With the Tour of Türkiye as its annual highlight and a finish nearby almost every time, İzmir is on its way to becoming a fixture on the cycling calendar. - Local concentrate
From sweet tea to salty olives. The fresh bread (Kumru) from the stone oven: leave those bars and gels at home. - Culture
Ephesus, Pergamon, Teos. History is at your feet and the villages are all different. You'll find a lot of authenticity here. Some of the villages are tourist attractions, but then you turn left twice and you're back to what you came to Turkey for: real locals, real experiences.
Izmir is not yet a replacement for Girona, but it doesn't have to be. Cycling around Izmir is just different. Personally, I would say it is more authentic. Here you are not yet checked on your bike/your outfit or which latte/espresso/flat white you are drinking and whether your pie looks better than the others. It's a bit rawer there. It definitely has potential to become a top destination. You really just have to experience that. Before it is discovered by busloads of tourists and cyclists with matching outfits.
