The Costa Tropical is located at the southernmost part of the Spanish region of Andalusia. A beautiful stretch of hilly coastline, with some higher mountains behind it. The name Costa Tropical refers to the climate (subtropical) on the one hand, but also to the fruits that grow here. The best mangoes, bananas and 'chirimoyas' come from here. With its climate, the region is unique in its kind. Nice and sunny, warm, but also regularly some moisture provide an ideal growing climate for the tropical fruits. That you can also cycle beautifully here, many do not yet know. That is why we took the plunge and went exploring. We take you to the Costa Tropical!
Bump the bump ride
At Malaga airport, I am met by a jolly old boss. He has a sign with my name on it in his hand. Andalusia leans heavily on (sun)tourism and Malaga airport is the living example of this. 80 gates, 100 of these 'little men' with signs, lots of tourists. This is the beating heart of Andalusia's tourism industry.
The cheerful boss is willing to teach me a thing or two. On the road towards Almuñecar, I use my basic Spanish to communicate with the driver. While gesticulating and faltering, we arrive at a conversation. About the region, its dependence on tourism and fruit growing, but also about cuisine. He turns out to be a good amateur chef and, in passing, offers some tips on what to eat where. It is the end of the day, so I have forgotten a lot. But I definitely had to take the fish, especially the 'Bacalao'. Duly noted.
Virgin of Antigua
Almuñecar is a typical Spanish town, with a large church, an old centre with narrow streets and a huge castle. The influence of the 'Moors' who gained a foothold here centuries ago is clearly visible. In the church, all that glitters is gold. The town's patron saint, the Virgin Antigua, is dressed all in gold. As far as I understand, this lady is sent out to sea on a boat during the processions. Anything for the safe return home. These days, there is still some fishing, but the village is mostly a haven for older, British and French tourists who like sunshine, affordable food and a base for the region.
By the rivers of Babylon
If I put myself in the Bahia Almunecar hotel reports, it is just after 10 pm. I want a quick bite to eat, but the hotel restaurant is already closed. Fortunately, there is still something open in town. The hotel has a rental bike ready for me. Unfortunately, there is no bike cellar or other bicycle facility. Taking the bike in the room is the only motto. That room is not bad. Spacious, with a fine bed, a sitting area, a bathroom and a balcony. Sea views, what more could you want? When I return to the hotel after my quick evening snack, I hear a lot of murmuring somewhere. On the first floor, the noise swells. In a room, I see a large group of elderly people wildly clapping and swaying along. The sounds of 'By the rivers of Babylon' are popping out of a speaker. The entertainer on stage smiles as I look around the corner. Better get on my bike tomorrow.
Along the coast
I use the next morning to explore the western side of the Costa Tropical. The town of Nerja, one little 20 kilometres away, calls loud and clear. The route I made follows the promenade first and then continues along the coast. Apple pie, simple job my daughter would say. Once I have entered the route on Komoot, I see quite a few metres in altitude. Oh well, I suppose. Off we go! The temperature is lovely. Around 25 degrees and a lovely sun. Perfect for a nice spring day on the bike. Beforehand, I did well-lubricated, also on the advice of the locals.
The first few kilometres I follow the boulevard. It is good to watch out here, because despite being a quiet road, there are many cars. After a few kilometres, the coastal road seems to stop. In fact, all I see are steep cliffs. A small street turns left and then right. Punishingly uphill. I have to swallow. In the Netherlands, a ride along the beach is a nice coffee round. Here on the Costa Tropical, you always have to bring your climber's legs. There's nothing else to do: we're going up!
It is turning and turning on the narrow streets and as I look over my shoulder. It's brisk metres towards the top. From there, it's pretty much along the coast towards Nerja. Here it goes up and down, the coastal road is not a metre spot.
Nerja is a lovely town
In Nerja, you can go to the 'balcony of Europe', where you have a good view of Morocco. It's fairly touristy but you can pop into the centre for coffee and something to eat. See if you can stay out of the real tourist centre, as you'll quickly end up in the 'tourist traps' there. The infrastructure is in good shape. Fine cycle paths and somewhat considerate motorists. By the way, avoid the lunch hour, as it is very busy with cars and other traffic then.
To the hinterland
The next day, we head towards the hinterland with our little group. We head from the dreamy Salobreña towards the hinterland. We set course towards Jete. A nice challenging climb awaits us here. We first drive towards Almuñecar and then turn right into the hills. At first, traffic is still fairly busy and we ride on a regular two-lane road. Here, you'll have to cycle in tandem for a while. As soon as we get further out of the coast, it calms down, the views become more beautiful and we start turning and turning beautifully. For 5.5 kilometres, you get 7.2% to deal with. But the reward here too is at the top with beautiful views.
Back to the coast
It is enjoyable here. As we descend towards the coast, we are presented with some nice hairpin bends. We have to be careful with sometimes narrow roads, but nowhere does it get really dangerous. We almost always have the coast ahead of us. The smiling faces from the start only get more smiling. It is towards Salobreña where we are welcomed at the local sports centre, by the director of the tourism office. The tour and the opportunity to shower are very nice! This allows us to go on to Granada refreshed.
But not before being treated to a tour and then a very sumptuous lunch. Fresh fish, vegetables, fruit and more. Because after all, we are here on the Costa Tropical! So a lunch without fruit, that's not possible.
Trip to 'the farm'
Before we actually leave, we visit a tropical fruit nursery. The grower himself explains to us all about the fruit, the process of growing it, the advantages and disadvantages, working with nature (and thus the lack of rain). But also the advantage of this coastline, with the natural water basin of the Sierra Nevada. Nice to see. We let the fruits taste good!
Routes Costa Tropical
These are the routes including some other routes from Andalusia from an earlier press trip by Jurgen van Teeffelen. The info on that can be found in his January article.
