Saturday - Crossing to Puglia
This year's Giro starts in Albania, but even before the first pedal over, it is improvising. The vans are stuck at the border: original papers are missing. Nevertheless, the whole caravan eventually manages to cross safely to Brindisi by boat. At the quay, we are immediately approached by curious customs officers. They think we belong to the Giro organisation - which makes sense, as our shirts with the official Giro logo and the words "/ un giorno prima" give that impression. The ice breaks quickly, and before we know it we are handing out gadgets. Around 10.30 p.m., we move to the table. The Giro begins with pasta and stories.
Sunday, May 11 - Stage 4: Alberobello - Lecce
A leisurely ride to the south of the boot. The group rides smoothly, despite drizzle reporting halfway through. We finish in Lecce, a baroque gem in the heel of Italy. At the finish we get talking to a group of older Italians, proudly talking about their region. And yes, Rai Sport captures us on film. Now to find it again!
Monday, May 12 - Stage 5: Ceglie Messapica - Matera
I opt for a leisurely start today, along with a fellow sufferer who also prefers to build up the pace. The first hills are like speed bumps on the road, but we join the group after 60 kilometres. The rain continues, but the mood remains good. Matera - UNESCO World Heritage Site with its ancient cave dwellings - is the reward after this wet but atmospheric ride.
Tuesday, May 13 - Stage 6: Potenza - Naples
Today we write a classic: the longest stage yet. Sun, rain, hail, thunder, wind and even flooded streets - it is a meteorological battleground. The ride takes us through tunnels and chaotic city traffic. Naples does not disappoint: loud, lively and completely goofy. We finish as we should, with pasta and then a burger with fries. Carbo-loading, Italian-style.
Wednesday, May 14 - Stage 7: Castel di Sangro - Tagliacozzo
The day starts dry, but that doesn't last long. Around the 90-kilometre mark, the rain erupts, and the cold bites. Half the group cuts out. We seven braves ride on, descending at dusk and climbing on in a wet suit. After the finish, we dive straight into the van, shivering but satisfied.
Thursday 15 May - Extra stage: Rome (adaptation by the organisation)
A logistical master plan: stage 21 will be brought forward. That way we avoid a double transfer of 700 kilometres. Three vans, two trailers, and a lot of good sense take us to the start. The ride towards Rome feels like a Sunday ride: coffee stop with Tiramisu, taking photos, laughing with the group. At the end, I catch the train to Rome, so I can really cross the finish line in Rome tomorrow.
Thursday, May 16 - Stage 8: Giulianova - Castelraimondo
We are running on schedule again. It is chilly at the start, and rain is in the air. I opt to leave early. The climb to Valico di Santa Maria Maddalena (12.3km at 7.2%) chops up, but is just a taster. Later slopes of 15% follow, and Cagliole peaks even at 17%. The ice cream after the ride is not a luxury, but a necessity. Relief in a cone.
Friday, May 17 - Stage 9: Gubbio - Siena
Dry at last, thankfully - because gravel sections are on the menu today. They only come at the end of the ride, but take their toll: five punctures, slow climbs on loose gravel, and firm percentages. The Via Santa Caterina, with its 17%, looks shorter and less steep on TV. Pros ride up here at 20 km/h; we fight every metre. But the Piazza del Campo in Siena makes up for everything.
We tap 1034 kilometres with 15,000 altimeters on the counter. The legs are tired, but the heart wants more. On to week two!
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